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Published: September 23rd 2009
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Photo 13
A picnic at the top Known to the Zulus as uKhahlamba ('barrier of spears') and to the Afrikaans as the Drakensbergs ('dragon mountains'), the range of mountains dividing the South African state of KwaZulu-Natal and the kingdom of Lesotho is a formidable sight. It is home to many of the tallest peaks in southern Africa, including Thabana Ntelenyana, Mont-aux-Sources, Sentinel Peak and perhaps the most stunning feature, the Drakensberg Amphitheatre - a semi-circular ridge running for 5 kilometres in the Northern Berg, with the world's second-highest waterfall, the 948 metre Tugela Falls, adding to its drama.
I join a hike to the top of the Amphitheatre. Our small group of 4, led by guide Sim, chooses to make the climb on the same day as the Mont-aux-Sources Challenge - a frankly mad dash of about 50 kilometres from the Royal Natal National Park right to the top of Mont-aux-Sources, which starts at about 6am that morning, We take the sensible option and drive to the Sentinel Peak car park, more than half way up, and walk the rest. The path meanders up the mountainside to the base of Sentinel Peak, before reaching a gully. The final 250 metre ascent heads straight up the gully... just
Photo 1
Diving off the world's second highest waterfall... as the runners taking part in the Challenge are coming down! We scramble up, sometimes hoisting ourselves up on the rope all the time avoiding the loose rocks that come tumbling down past us.
The effort is worth it... when we reach the top, we're rewarded with a stunning view along the rim of the Amphitheatre, towards the Devil's Tooth at the south end. We stop for lunch at the edge of the mountain, dangling our legs over the side as if the 1,000 metre drop below us was just a park bench. Above us, Cape Vultures circle, using the updrafts from the Amphitheatre to search for food. After lunch, we head a short way along the ridge to the Tugela Falls. I'd like to say that they were an impressive sight, but as we were visiting in South Africa's dry winter/spring, there was only a trickle spilling down the 948 metre drop. Still, this gave us a chance to stand in the river itself, and peer over the lip of the falls.
Our route down the mountain was just as exciting as the climb up. A series of chain ladders has been helpfully provided on the northern
Photo 8
Fancy trying these chain ladders Ali?? face of the mountain, where the rock drops vertically for more than 200 metres. Ali, I think you'd have had to turn back if you thought the ladders in Skeleton Gorge were scary! The ladders disappeared over the side of the mountain, their metal handrails worn smooth by countless petrified walkers gripping onto them for dear life! As Sim bounded down next to us, we edged our way down and heaved a huge sigh of relief at the bottom. Back at the lodge, we rewarded ourselves with a cold beer and a soak in the jacuzzi.
The next day I decided to admire the Amphitheatre from a safer distance, walking into the Royal Natal National Park to do the Tugela Gorge walk, which approaches the Tugela Falls from the other direction. The walk follows the river through open bush and small patches of forest, affording stunning views of the huge wall of mountain to the west. I had just enough time to watch a small troupe of chacma baboons playing at the roadside before jumping back into Guppy and driving for 7 hours to St Lucia on the coast north of Durban... a drive which took me past the
Photo 4
Guppy admires the Drakensberg Amphitheatre from below famous Zulu battle sites of Rourke's Drift and, more relevant to someone who grew up near Sheffield Wednesday football ground, Spioen Kop (after which the main stand is named).
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Ali
non-member comment
Blimey!
You are quite right big guy, I would have found those ladders a challange to say the least! I think it would have taken more than a bit of coaxing and gentle guidance to get me down those!! I'm terrified just looking at the photos!! Well done you, the views look totally out of this world, what an amazing experience. I'm hoping India is a trifle flatter however... :) x