Etosha

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Nine hours driving. That is how long it took to get from Windhoek to Etosha National Park. Namibia is a big country. But it sure was worth it. Within five minutes of driving in the gate we were presented with a waterhole with several giraffe and a bull elephant. Fantastic!

We had joined a camping tour with Wild Dog Safaris. We camped for our first night at Namutoni campsite. It was such a great introduction to camping, with the best campsite bathrooms I have ever seen. A small detail, but an oh so important one! As we ate dinner on that first night, we had jackals and warthogs wandering past. These were the only animals, though, as the fences kept out the bigger (and slightly scarier) ones.

On our second day we made our way slowly to Okaukuejo campsite, stopping at waterholes along the way. We spotted so many animals, with the absolute highlight being the lions. It was probably within the first 30 minutes of our drive (which started at about 7.30am). We saw a couple of vans pulled over at the side of the road and decided to investigate. A male lion, mane and all, was just sitting there. On the side of the road! As we watched, he slowly stood up and crossed the road to settle down beside a lioness that noone had spotted. Why not? Because as soon as they lie down, they disappear in the grass. Their camoflague is excellent.

Once we reached Okaukuejo, we set up came and headed down to the waterhole straight away. The waterhole at Okaukuejo was great - basically set up as an amphitheatre (with a biggish fence) with a spotlight so you can watch the natural waterhole all night. When we first reached the waterhole there was just the usual assortment of springbok, kudu and zebras. Our excitement and anticipation of seeing some of the carnivores or even an elephant was slightly diminshed at this so we headed off for a shower. After the shower, we walked back to the waterhole, joking that there probably wouldn't be anything there. As we got nearer I found myself feeling frustrated as I couldn't see anything because there was this big grey thing in the way. Oh, thought I, that big grey rock is turning around. Elephant! She spent about another ten minutes at the waterhole before ambling off slowly towards the horizon. The rest of the group soon joined us and we spent another hour watching a magical sunset, whilst following the progress of five jackals trying to bring down a springbok. They succeeded. Eventually. We also finally saw a rhino! James was so very excited! Everyone was mesmerised with a giraffe that was having a drink, that we didn't realise that the rhino was there until it was almost at the water!

Following dinner (a braai), we went straight back to the waterhole. It is kind of addictive - like a poker machine. You keep trying because you never know what you are going to get. This time we got two lions! They wandered close to the waterhole then disappeared. The rest of the group drifted off to bed but we stuck it out, despite the freezing wind. (Which was ridiculous compared to the scorching temperatures during the day). We were rewarded with three rhinos. They didn't immediately come to the waterhole though. They were nervous and stamping their feet for a reason that wasn't apparent until one of them mock charged and two lions suddenly sprang out from their hiding place. There was a bit of a stand off with both parties circling each other but they both finally seemed to decide that they would just rather go their own way that get into an arguement! Awesome stuff.

After another early rise, we headed out of the park and back to Windhoek, via a very smelly crocodile farm. It was a great trip - we are now looking forward to heaing down to Sossuvlei.

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Photos

Watching the lions
They were so close!