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Published: April 27th 2006
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Hoosiers!
At the bus station in Maputo, I find a hawker with a Hoosier t-shirt. The bus ride to Inhambane was a rough one. As usual, it took longer than estimated...after 10 hours we made it to Inhambane and grabbed a free mini bus ride to Tofo (courtesy of Bamboozi Backpackers). Neike and I took beds in the large round dorm room which housed about 15 beds. Upon arrival, we were the only ones in the room (but that would change the next day and soon the room would be full). It was almost sunset when we arrived but after the long, hot bus ride, I quickly ran into the ocean which I found out was very warm. Nonetheless, I needed it bad! Neike and I had a great dinner at the Bamboozi bar/restaurant (which has amazing food) and I went to bed early as I signed up for an early scuba dive for the following morning. The nights in the dorm were very hot, so much so I woke a few times during the evening to take a cold shower. It would become my routine for the next two weeks.
The scuba dive in the morning was fantastic as I spotted a few manta rays, lots of colorful fish and an octopus. In the
Avocados
The bus stopped for a few minutes and I bought an avocado from this lady. afternoon, I signed up for the Ocean Safari (snorkeling trip) in hopes of swimming with whale sharks. On the way out to sea, we paused so the group could get used to snorkeling. Once we got back in the boat, we headed out to sea. A few minutes later I realized the zippered pocket of my bathing suit was open and I no longer had my credit cards and money (I keep them in two zip-lock bags). Ugh. After almost 10 months of traveling the world, I finally had my first true crisis: no credit cards and thus no way to get money from a bank machine. Luckily I had my stash of US Dollars on me to pay for incidentals and I knew I could get my parent's credit card number to pay for lodging and scuba diving at Bamboozi. So, I laughed it off and continued on the safari. Within 20 minutes, the group was swimming with half a dozen of the large whale sharks. For those who do not know, a whale shark can grow up to 46 feet (14 m) in length, weighing up to 15 tons. The average size is 25 feet (7.6 m) long.
Sellers
When ever the bus stops, ladies come to the windows with their goods to sell. It is the largest fish in the world. They are curious creatures that if you stay calm, will swim up to you and pass within inches. It was amazing to see such a huge creature of the sea up close. Having missed the opportunity in Thailand, I was ecstatic to see them in Mozambique. Once the dive was over, I helped Vicky get into the boat an inadvertantly broke her bikini top. Being the consumate British girl, she yelled in horror at the chance her breasts would be seen by others. Meanwhile, on the boat were two German girls who had spent the morning bathing topless on the beach and thus could not understand why Vicky made such a spectacle of the incident. I saved the situation by giving Vicky my cutoff t-shirt so she could board the boat. Disaster averted.
After returning to shore, I spent the afternoon reporting my cards lost and getting new ones sent to me in Mozambique. Getting a new AMEX card was simple but getting another ML Visa turned out to be tedious....it ended up taking almost two weeks to reach me.
The following day I had made plans to leave Bamboozi,
Dorm Room
I got a bed in the large, round dorm room for $8 per night at Bamboozi's. My bed is the one with the color sheet on it. but due to poor weather, I changed my mind...GOOD DECISION...as I took two weeks for the Visa card to reach Vilanculos, Mozambique (my next destination). Instead, I spent the next two weeks diving twice a day, meeting great people and becoming good friends with Vicki and Charlotte (who is just like Bridget Jones). In all I did 12 dives and saw mantas, moray eels, groupers, octopi and many other species of aquatic life. Unfortunately, no sharks.
There is not much to do in Tofo as it is a very small village. I did accompany William (one of the dive instructors at Liquid Adventues) to Inhambane for a shopping trip. I explored the outdoor market while he shopped for groceries and such. It is a great experience to wander the many stalls of the African outdoor markets and see the various goods that people offer (from fruits and veggies to meats and dry goods).
Back at Bamboozi, I agreed to partner with Charlotte for her deep dive. It was going to be my last dive. Unfortunately, we both experienced Nitrogen Narcosis at 35 meters down. It is a fun experience until you realize you are having trouble and can
Beach
I pose on the deck of the Bamboozi bar with the beach in the background. not stop laughing. I spent a few minutes chatting with a Potato Grouper when I realized I was "narcing out". Luckily I grabbed my dive master's leg and motioned to him I was Narc-ing. We ascended and at 20 meters, I came to my senses. Crisis averted.
Vicki, Charlotte and I left after two weeks at Bamboozie's. I found an English couple who would give us a ride in their pick-up to Vilanculos. It was a true blessing as traveling by public bus north of Tofo is a nightmare.
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