Blogs from Northern, Mozambique, Africa - page 3

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Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Pemba July 13th 2010

Mozambique - Pemba & Guludo, Quirimbas National Park - May 2010 Mozambique is a very poor African country which suffered greatly during the civil war (1977-1992). But it is also a beautiful country with wonderful diving spots. We went on a diving holiday to the north of Mozambique, stopping in Pemba as well as the Quirimbas National Park. Highlights - Diving in Pemba with Sarah & Francis, and Brenda from Pemba Bush Camp. Saw the giant fan corals and lots of fish we'd never seen before (see pictures). - Honeymoon lodge of Guludo - extremely romantic but with a very pedantic dive master! - Pod of dolphins followed us during a dive - it never loses its magic. - Learning about Nemo charity which builds schools and digs wells in poor villages. Lowlights - Having to ... read more
Beach
Halgerda (Nudibranch)
Anglerfish

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Island of Mozambique May 16th 2010

Crossing from Malawi to Mozambique I get a little rush. Despite an excellent travel partner for the last month it feels good to be exploring on my own again. There's also a certain thrill to be had in entering a country in which once again I have no grasp of the language - Mozambique is a former Portuguese colony rather than the predominantly English ones I've visited recently - and very little knowledge about the place full stop. To the best of my recollection the first minibus ('chapa') I take once in Mozambique sets a personal record: 28 people in a 14 seater, plus driver. Fitting all the luggage inside along with the passengers resembles a failing effort to salvage a game of Tetris on the blink. Every square inch of space is swiftly swamped as ... read more
Jet Li
Hard at work
Confused

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Nampula August 24th 2009

L has said he'll take me to the bus station the following morning but he gets up sufficiently late that I begin to wonder if I'll get out of Mocuba today. I'd been told that I should buy my ticket at least an hour in advance in order to ensure a seat, but we leave at a time where we'll barely make it to the station to catch the bus full stop, let alone get a seat on it. L realises this, and instead takes me to a pick-up spot in town where I should be able to flag down the bus when it passes. We say our farewells, and I'm grateful for that last piece of Malawian hospitality. I don't have to wait long for the bus and it's not surprisingly full however the aisle ... read more
That's very nearly an armful!
Hotel Lurio
Kalashnikov and ploughshare

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Island of Mozambique August 23rd 2009

I reach the chapa park at an awkward time. The chapa to Ilha is already nearly full, meaning the boon of an imminent departure, but the vehicle is one where the front row of seats and an uncomfortable backwards-facing bench share legroom that is only adequate for one or the other. It's to the disappointment of all that my long legs are added to this mix. A foreign couple comfortably settled on the back seat view me with undisguised contempt, marking them out as French. The journey to Ilha is fortunately on a decent road, meaning the battle to prevent my right foot from going numb lasts only 2.5 hours. I'm relieved when, twisting round to face the front, I see the causeway leading over to the island. There's a slalom course of red and white ... read more
Red, white, and blue
Light
Mosque

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Mocuba August 12th 2009

There's little useful info on the web about crossing into Mozambique from Blantyre and I've met no-one who's done it recently - in fact, the only thing I've been able to glean is that the transport in northern Mozambique is shocking, though one poster had cheered me up by noting it was better than in Ethiopia. The closest border crossing to Blantyre is about 30km past Mt Mulanje - I would have gone there from Mulanje if I hadn't been so sore, short of cash, and suffering from diarrhoea after my hike there. Now (almost) healthy and with some money, it's time to try again. The conductor of the minibus is of the worst kind, a sadomasochist who can never have too many people in his vehicle. There's a Swahili saying that you never finish eating ... read more
Man in the mirror
My transport

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Island of Mozambique December 22nd 2008

In the morning Johannas and I toss our packs into the back of Gabriel’s pick-up, and with a few toots of the horn and a handful of merry waves, we bump along through the streets of Ilha. We’re undoubtedly a curious sight - at no point this week have I seen more than three or four other white tourists on the island - and there are plenty of barefoot kids in varying states of undress to chase our clouds of dust. At the bridge to the mainland a chapa idles near the checkpoint, four haggard faces peering from the rear. It’s a Sunday, and traffic to the mainland is slow: the driver wearily informs us he’s been waiting for his truck to fill since early morning. Gabriel shakes his head and offers us his best wishes, ... read more
Geoff on the job.
Quittin' time!

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Nampula December 13th 2008

Rui is wrapped in a bedsheet and sleeping under the cashew tree when I set off for the train to Nampula. He wipes the sleep from his eyes, raises half-heartedly, offers to walk me to the station. I pat his shoulder and thank him for the offer, but tell him to go back to sleep. “Estou bêm,” I assure him. The early pre-dawn blue has begun to show in the sky, and sleepy Cuamba doubtless has few surprises between here and the train station. The askari opens the gate and wags his hand and sends me off, no doubt grateful to dispense of his responsibilities before heading back to bed. Stray dogs prowl through the street trash; a truck idles outside the bakery, the driver slouched in his seat. At the station, two surprisingly patient queues ... read more
Rush hour.
A legacy of war.
Village.

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Nampula July 19th 2008

A train ride in Africa seems like and is a good idea. No more sharing a seat with two other people, no more sitting down for 12 hours, no more potholes which could swallow a truck, being able to eat and drink and actually enjoy the scenery. That is if you book second class. Third class is just like being on a bus. No surprise then that second class was filled with mostly white faces. The train trip starts as the buses do too at the ungodly early hour of 5am but we were rewarded with a nice seat in a sleeper carriage. Why they have sleeper car on a train ride which starts in the morning and ends late afternoon is a slight mystery but I guess they had nothing else. Anyway more comfortable than ... read more
Chaos desended on us every time we came to a halt
chaos part II
Safety first

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Island of Mozambique July 12th 2008

Ihla de Mozambique played a huge role in the history of eastern Africa, the slave trade and the Portuguese dominance over Mozambique. Before the Portuguese took over the island was used by Arab traders. Unfortunately for them and fortunately for the Portuguese their weapons weren’t that great and the Portuguese took over in the early 1500. They were quick to build the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, in 1522 which is considered to be the oldest European building in the southern hemisphere. Shortly after they realize that they cannot defend the Island with a bible and build the impressive Fort of São Sebastião. Both of which are still standing. The island was up until the early 1900 the focal point of Portuguese trade (spices, slaves and gold) to and from Africa and India and later ... read more
Women’s soccer... on concrete.. without shoes.. Tough
After a hard day
One of the many small side streets

Africa » Mozambique » Northern » Nampula July 10th 2008

This blog entry could also be called two idiots on a road trip... Jens the German guy I’m traveling with at the moment and I decided that we wanted to go up north as quickly as possible. I wanted to save time in Mozambique to be able to visit Malawi and he wanted to go from north to south. All said and done we decided that we will try to cover as much distance in as short as time as possible. We did … 4 days, over 30 hours in busses and over 1500km later we arrived. This is our story The whole tour started in Inhambane with a Dhow (small sailing boat) across to a small town from which we apparently could get a bus to Beira some 10 or 12 hours up north. After ... read more
First minibus
Safely secured luggage
Four seats, five people, where is the problem




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