Chefchaouen

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Chefchaouen September 21-22

Two buses and a ferry got us to Tangier in Morocco. It was immediately apparent that we had arrived in a very different country. Tangier had a lot of development of high rise buildings happening, I’m not sure if it was for tourism or for business being such a close port to Spain.

The surrounds were very much like a half completed building site, and it seemed like a big wind had blown loose rubbish around everywhere. The streets were very crowded. With many in traditional dress. However, it was surprising how many women did not wear the head scarf.

Fortunately our leader had arranged local transport to Chefchaouen instead of the 5 hours that had been the previous time, we should got there in about 2 hours, listenting to techno music and passing by quite fertile country to the Rif mountains.

Chefchaouen is a smaller town at the base of the Rif mountains, with the most amazing blue houses and streets set amongst the white of other buildings. This colour typifies this town, and is actually a legacy from the Jews that had lived there previously.

Our hotel was beautiful, with rich clay walls and blue trim/ There was Moroccon furnishings and paintings, lovely fountain in the garden and a pool (although we decided that not enough chlorine had been used and avoided the swim).

The next morning we had a local guide that spoke to us about Moroccan traditions, greetings and some local history. He explained that under the present King (of 6 years) things were changing, with his wife appearing on TV and appearing without headwear; that education was the nations 2nd priority (the first being the resolution of the border war with Algeria). With education was coming a greater understanding of cleanliness and healthcare, as well as greater prosperity.

Our local guide it turns out, had plans to run for mayor in 2015, and seemed to be well known about town. We went to a carpet and weaving co-op where I had one of those buying days, being nice to see where things had been made.

After visiting a local co-operative to see the local woven products, we had lunch in a restaurant that was in someone’s home, there were decorated belows and lamps, and of course many cushions on our seats. We had olives and bread, moroccon salad, and skewers of either chicken or beef, olive followed by fruit and mint tea.

We were to find that there were a standard menu in most places (tajine of beef or chicken, skewers, kofta balls, vegetables and couscous, and pigeon in pastry). Olives accompanied everything, even breakfast came with olives.

All too soon it was time to move on. Chefchaouen is definitely one of the places that will stay vivid in the memories.

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Photos

The painting didn't always reach the top of the buildings
The painting was traditionally the job of the women, but now men are lending a hand.

walking
You could walk for hours through these streets

Doorway to my room
Stairs to roof

The communication centre - the communal washing area
This is the hub of the town, and washing is now no longer the sole domain of the women.