Merzouga - Sahara!

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Moroccos flagPublished: May 27th 2006Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Merzouga
April 11th 2006

Coomby of ArabiaCoomby of Arabia
Coomby of Arabia

Says it all...haha...
Says it all, the main reason for this whole crazy adventure...

Finally felt well enough to travel so hopped an early bus out of Azrou, destination Rissani. Loooonnnngg day to say the least, it was an 8 1/2 hour trip from Hell on one of the local transports...the seats were so close together that I couldn't sit with my knees in front of me: had to sit at an angle and essentially squirmed in my seat the whole way... was able to see some beautiful sites along the way which was cool, but the bus would stop at every town along the way and for anyone standing by the side of the road... Uneventful ride until we got to Erfoud, the stop before the end of the line of Rissani, a complete den of thieves. The faux guides and touts started getting on and trying to push their tours of the desert, accommodations etc. I was by myself and there was only one other tourist couple on the bus, a little unnerving. Fortunately I had called ahead to book a place to stay in Merzouga and they gave me pointers on how to get out of Rissani and to the
Dunes at Sunrise IDunes at Sunrise I
Dunes at Sunrise I

Another favourite pic, the blues were incredible...
inn without having to deal with the hustlers.. The coolest thing was the bus got caught in a sandstorm between Erfoud and Rissani, it was crazy! To top it off a thunderstorm hit at the same time so while the people on the bus clamored to close the windows from the sand the rain hit with the thunder and lightning, so cool! Despite the efforts to keep the sand out I was covered...

Made it finally to Chez Julia's in Merzouga, beautiful place. They knew I had been sick (called from Azrou to move my arrival date) and took it upon themselves to nurse me back to health. Very nice people, had a great laugh with Edir, the place was beautiful, food was amazing and they looked after everything for me...

I had originally wanted to spend a couple of days in the desert but they talked me out of it; I was still pretty weak from the illness. They then suggested I go out for a night, come back and rest, and then take a camel tour the following night, totally worked out!

The desert, what can I say, I fell in love. Absolutely amazing; the
IdirIdir
Idir

...my guide.
colours, sights and absolute isolation were incredible. My guide Idir was fantastic, he had a great sense of humour and really looked after me out there... We hiked for about two hours and 4-5 kms before coming to the oasis where we were to spend the night. Along the way we were passed by camel train after camel train, I think we were the only ones to walk! Glad I did though, camels aren't the most comfortable (as I was to discover the following evening) and it gave you more time to really admire the dunes...

Chilled out at the oasis, Idir fired up dinner and we listened to the Berber drums before crashing for the evening...only to wake at about two in the morning to arctic gale force winds piling through the shack I was sleeping in...I froze my ass off! All part of the experience though..haha...

This was the quintessential/romantic Morocco I had envisioned/hoped for. The people were fantastic, and it was really cool strolling through town (or on camel) and having the local kids come running out to wave at you. The desert exceeded all expectations; while I thought it would be beautiful it truly
DoorknobsDoorknobs
Doorknobs

...door to my room, love the hardware...
blew me away. All in all this was one of the highlights of the trip, and again would someday love to go back and spend more time in the desert...enjoy the pics...

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Jeff Coombe
Canuck who loves to travel and is determined to see the world...enjoy the pics/stories! ... full info
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In 788, about a century after the Arab conquest of North Africa, successive Moorish dynasties began to rule in Morocco. In the 16th century, the Sa'adi monarchy, particularly under Ahmad AL-MANSUR (1578-1603), repelled foreign invaders and inaugurate...more info

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View from Chez Julia'sView from Chez Julia's
View from Chez Julia's

of the dunes...
Lil' Bastard...Lil' Bastard...
Lil' Bastard...

...that kept me up all night with his caterwauling and then had the nerve to sleep beside me at breakfast...like the tongue hanging out though!
Skis?Skis?
Skis?

What the? Thought it was a mirage at first, but there they are...people apparently ski/board the dunes, didn't witness it personally but saw it on a postcard...love the colours in this pic...
Coomby of Arabia IICoomby of Arabia II
Coomby of Arabia II

Edir outfitted me before I headed out on my desert excursion...
Sahara ISahara I
Sahara I

On the edge of town heading into the Sahara...with one of many camel trains seen in the distance...
Sahara IISahara II
Sahara II

Awesome...please note the variety of colours in the dunes in these pics...
Camel TrainCamel Train
Camel Train

Idir watching a camel train passing...
OasisOasis
Oasis

Rounded the dune to come upon the oasis where we were to spend the night...
Footprints...Footprints...
Footprints...

The sand started playing havoc with my camera...the shutter would stick as seen in this pic...think it really adds to it though, love it!
Coomby of Arabia IVCoomby of Arabia IV
Coomby of Arabia IV

This really captured the moment in time: Mentally and physically exhausted, still feeling the effects of the illness but in awe of it all at the same time...my eyes tell the whole story...
Oasis IIOasis II
Oasis II

The oasis at sundown...for scale the tents seen in the oasis are big, twelve person tents...and if you can get the pic big enough you will see tiny blips along the ridge of the dune...thems is people folks, some of the dunes are quite massive...
Mint tea at the OasisMint tea at the Oasis
Mint tea at the Oasis

Idir and I relaxing before dinner with some mint tea...aaahhh...





Comments
Date: 24th August 2007

Great pics
Thanks for sharing your adventures! I married an Idir from Erfoud, but not your Idir. The desert is fabulous. I hope you make it back soon. You are always welcome.

From Blog: Merzouga - Sahara!
Date: 26th August 2007


Thank you for the kind words Sophia, and glad you liked the pics... Would love to someday return, the Sahara is something that left quite an impression on me...

From Blog: Merzouga - Sahara!
Date: 8th July 2009

Thanks
Because of your blog I decided to stay at Chez Julia after being badly faux guided to another place. It is fantastic and will recommend to everyone. Like you I had a truely amazing time in the dunes and hope also return one day. Happy travellin. Kate.

From Blog: Merzouga - Sahara!
Date: 10th July 2009


Thanks for the kind words Kate, glad my blog was of help to escape the touts...Chez Julia is a cool spot, would love to go back some day...and the Sahara, man I miss it!

From Blog: Merzouga - Sahara!
Date: 18th August 2010

fantastic
fantastic place at the gate of Sahara, thanks a lot to Rachid for all the talks and suggestions and info he gave us during our staying.

From Blog: Merzouga - Sahara!




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