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Published: March 6th 2008
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A "hike" in Boghe
A stoic pose on a "hike" over the flat grassland from Bohge to the river that separates Mauritania and Senegal. The PeaceCorps volunteers placed in the town and I went to have a picnic and look for monkeys. We completed both objectives AND saw some salt being smuggled in from Senegal. Or was it rice. I can't recall. Illegal though, and smuggled in via wooden canoe and donkey cart. On the way back, we rode on a horse cart. I nearly got ejected multiple times. fun fun. Mauritania is not a popular tourist destination. It has two main paved roads; they are so skinny that I held my breath each time our car approached a HUGE overloaded truck (often). The only way to get anywhere is in a small French car that is used as a long-distance taxi, called a bush taxi. It is a fill-and-go policy and the car is not full until there are 4 people in the backseat, and two in the passenger seat...yes two. It is like a bunch of teenagers going to TP someone's house or something, except you are crammed in with at least one enormous woman and her one or more children (who don't count towards the head count). The car stops for prayer time, roadblocks, bathroom breaks, etc. it's really hot and there is no AC. Almost all tourists are Europeans doing the overland thing, just passing through to Senegal or Mali. I met a gaggle of Spaniards in the capital, who invited me to join them in their huge van/truck and head to Mali. I already had plans to go south, see Senegal, then fly to Bamako, Mali. I didn't know at that point, I would be alone on
New clothes
April had my wardrobe made prior to my arrival. Both men and women wear bright colors and loud patterns. The men wear a longer shirt or very long dress like boubou with matching pants (it is traditionally just plain white or blue). It´s fun. Oh, we are at dinner at the Mayor´s house. that flight.
It was fun to “pick up” April from PeaceCorps. I got to meet all the new and veteran volunteers, dance about at their first regional party (after the new guysl received their placements for the next 2 years), and meet all the people April has lived and worked with in Boghe. April had some outfits sewn prior to my arrival so I fit in (as much a white girl can in a huge billowy African outfit can). The new PeaceCorps kids actually thought I was starting my 2nd or 3rd year! I was a quick learner on the headscarf tying and walked naturally in the yards and yards of fabric, I guess.
In Boghe, we had invitations for lunch and dinner nearly everyday, as the whole town wanted to say
au revoir to Fati (April's Mauritanian name). After lunch, it's nap time (sleeping at someone else's house is totally cool and encouraged as it is seen as a compliment - that you feel comfortable), then tea time (REALLY strong shot glasses of mint tea - always 3 rounds). Dozing on and off in the shade laying on a bunch pillows and drinking sweat tea really is
Tea, an institution
VERY sugary, VERY strong black tea made with fresh mint. Most families have a little garden plot on their compound that has....mint. Yes, just mint. Everyday, after lunch, 3 rounds of tea go down. I read that the first is supposed to be sweet for love, the second bitter for death, and the third a compromise, representing life. No one I met in West Africa seemed to know what my guidebook was talking about. haha. the best way to spend the day in an oven.
My least favorite part of the time in Maur was the sun. I was sweating in the face all day long, felt the absolute need to shower twice daily (dust + sweat = nasty), and wasn't able to sleep past 5:30 am because the sun woke up and shot burning rays down upon me. I resisted but the sun always won (yes we slept outside...waaaaay too hot inside the mud house!) Anyone that has lived with me knows that getting up early is not my MOST favorite thing.
It was very dry when I arrived, and the people were worrying because the rainy season was late to start. It finally started and was amazing. In Mauritania, there are no drizzles. Before it rains, the sky turns black. You can see a black sky, following a huge dust cloud, rolling in. It looks like the end of the world. Then wind starts blowing indiscriminately in many directions and the rain POURS down. The amount of water that falls is incredible. There is standing water everywhere (inches of water) after a rain, even one of short duration. Twas cool and very
kids are way more helpful here
I noticed immediately that children are viewed as a contributing member to household duties at a WAY younger age than in the States. They fetch water, used knifes and prepare meals, and wash clothes and dishes. This is April´s youngest host sister. different from any precipitation I'd seen before. Additionally, the air cooled down after a good rain, which was lovely. One night I thought I could finish brushing my teeth before the black cloud reached our compound. I continued brushing instead of running for the house. It started and I was completely drenched running the 50 meters over to the house.
In was fun to meet all the PCVs and get an insider view on the experience. I don't think it's for me, but it was cool to hear about everyone's projects, the reasons they decided to volunteer and what their future plans were.
The last few days in the country, we were in the capital (Nouakchott). Due to desertification, the city is basically a desert with some buildings and mosques. One day we took a taxi down to hang out at the beach. I have never seen LESS skin at a beach before. In the city, Haby and I chilled and April finished up all the end of service requirements (ie medical check-up, reports, etc.). After it was all wrapped up, we headed south, to Senegal.
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