Blogs from Mauritania, Africa
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Sunday Day 36 Today we crossed into Mauritania! The border opened just after 9am and the truck was squeezed into the queue which had become quite long. We were to walk across as the truck is sent through an x-ray and also checked for alcohol, Mauritania being a dry country. Dressed in long sleeves, long pants and proper shoes (rather than the flip flops or sandals that have given us our fantastic tan lines), we filled in the necessary paperwork and lined up to receive our exit stamp. The wind was again blowing sand into eyes, ears and mouths and I looked on almost enviously at the local women in burqas. Our passports were checked again by friendly Moroccan officials and then we had to go and register our departure with another official. It was all ... read more
W drodze do ambasady mijamy sprzedawcow jakis drewnialych bryl. Co to jest? jaaa...to kokosy! facet stoi z meczetą,sieka wydlubuje otworek i pijesz, potem sieka dalej i wyjmuje to, co potem idzie na wiorki, z tym ze tutaj teraz jest miekkie i pyszne. Zreszta jak orzeszki ziemne- tu tez sa swieże, miekkie,soczyste i smakują troche jak zielona fasolka.Te duże kokosy maja nawet sporo mleczka. W bamako kupilismy wize do Senegalu na miesiac za 5000CFA na osobe, czyli super -sprawdza sie po raz kolejny, ze lepiej zalatwiac wizy w Afryce. Taniej i szybciej, prawie od reki. Zreszta tak jak wiza do Mali -w Nuakchott tez szybko i ok.15euro na osobe. Wiec ile moze kosztowac tranzytowa do Mauretanii? Na wywieszce pod ambasadą jest napisane, ze 31tys frankow/os. Zniesmaczeni ze tak drogo pytamy pana konsula czy ma tansze np.tranzytowe,a ... read more
Stasiek wraca z wizami :) Wojtek cisnie na gaz pedzimy w strone granicy,nocleg 100km przed granica, mile sniadanie i na granice. Zatrzymuje nas policja i sprawdzaja sie niepokoje wojtka,pytaja o ubezpieczenie ktore skonczylo sie dwa dni wczesniej ze wzgledu na czekanie na wize.Na szczescie skonczylo sie na mandacie za niby przekroczenie predkosci . Jestesmy w Mauretanii,przestrzegani przez wszystkich jaka Mauretania ciezka i niezyczliwa czekamy w strachu na pierwsze posterunki. Pierwsza kontrol dokumetow prosza o fiszki dajemy fotokopie paszportow, Bon voyage i jedziemy dalej, tak kolejne posterunki nie wiemy o co chodzi nikt nie wsadza lapy do samochodu po kase. Ibrahim ten od kawalu jadac z nami do Dakhli mowil "Ci zolnierze na granicy tak gadaja na tych mauretanczykow a tak naprawde to oni sa gorsi,nie chcieli mnie puscic na granicy jak nie dam im 50euro,mimo ... read more
Getting stood up by a camel in the Sahara
Published: April 13th 2011Africa » Mauritania » Adrar » ChinguettiI am on the back of a Ute high above the roof sitting on some bags. It’s pitch black and I am concentrating so I don’t fall asleep. If I do and fall off no one would know for a while. Only one other guy is up there with me and he is facing the other way - The rest of the passengers are squeezed inside. There is no evidence to suggest that I am in the Sahara. It’s just the sound of the tyres crossing compact sand. It’s cold and we are driving at a fair pace. I thought the toughest part of the trip was over but I was only in the middle. I didn’t know it then but by late afternoon I would be stood up by camel. I heard an irregular sound ... read more
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Will there be somewhere for me to sit down, lay down? Will I have to stand up the whole time? What about a toilet? Will I be able to breath? Where’s my luggage going to go? Even if I am able to sit or lay down, what’s the state of the floor or seat? Will I be able to cope catching an iron ore train for 12 hours not equipped for humans and getting sand blasted by the Sahara for my troubles? I crossed over from Morocco and we cross the train line, which was going through maintenance so that brought confidence and concern at the same time. I reached Nouadhibou, which is the second biggest city in Mauritania. It is used for its port and is a desert landscape. It is also the location to ... read more
Mauritania: December 2010
Published: January 5th 2011Africa » Mauritania » Dakhlet Nouadhibou » NouadhibouWe were excited to hit our second country of the trip – or third official territory! Albeit probably the most dodgy country we would be visiting in terms of current political unrest. The border is notorious for taking a while.... but this time it was the Moroccans who decided to hold us up. We spent about 4-5 hours on the Moroccan side trying to exit, I think Mauritania had us stamped in in about an hour. Ridiculous really being harder to leave a country than enter one!! I think the most interesting aspect of our border experience was the no man’s land – always a place I find surreal. This particular no man’s land was a cross between a car graveyard, an abandoned fridge graveyard and random locals trying to solicit random business. It was desolate ... read more
Cute, very cute we were, but even more naive....The bus ride from Bamako to Nouakchott was indeed a bit more than the promised 30 hours, which I also mentioned in the previous blog entry. I would have settled for 40, but in the end it became 50 hours. Ok truth be told: we arrived just a bit too late at the border, so we were forced to sleep there. But the Mauritanian customs were nice and suggested to sleep next to the cabin of the border police: more safe. Ok safe it was, but still cold.... But the ride in itself was uneventful, too many 'security' checks, but that's ok. The bus attendants wanted to collect bribe money to pay the police at the checkpoint, but we did not fall for it. They explained that we ... read more
Met a german with dreads and a van to give us a 700km lift south into Mauritania. slept in the dessert on the way, dodged camels, and traversed landmine infested terrain. border was a bit of a deal. took 5 hours to cross due to paper work and double checks.. looking at our passports again and again. inbetween mauritania and morocco theres 5 km of no mans land. with no road, local nomades offer to guide you through for 10 euros. if you go solo without their help it can be risky: fake tracks in the sand, with traps just over the hill, once you get stuck sudenly they want 100 euros to pull you out. anyway.. aparently the german knew what he was doing more or less and we made it through by following a ... read more
Climbed into the iron ore train after only an hour of waiting.I'm pretty sure I was the only female in the open bines section (no ticket required), and definitely the only tourist, but I got lucky and rode with three very nice and experienced guys. They had warm blankets and quickly set up a sand firepit in the corner and we had a freshly cooked beef stew tangine and plenty of tea for the trip. The open desert and starry night were wonderful, and the train was a lot more comfortable than expected, even got some good sleep in between the occasional jolt of cars crashing together. Arrived in Zuerat, feeling quite safe despite the hype; one thing that helps is that every police or army officer i have met has been very nice and there ... read more
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