Cape Maclear = An Azungu Paradise

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I knew that life in rural Malawi would be difficult, but I don't think I fully understood the extent of the challenges and difficulties involved until I actually arrived and experienced it first-hand. Living in rural Malawi is definitely not for the faint of heart. Electricity is sporadic, running water is rare, and the insects are about 3-5 times larger than they are back in the states.

In light of these lifestyle changes, three co-workers and I decided to take a weekend away from Neno to "live it up" in Malawi's most popular tourist destination, Cape Maclear. Cape Maclear is a rare oasis in Malawi, providing tourists with an impressive array of beach 'resorts,' bars, and tourist activities. The town is located on the southern tip of Lake Malawi (the third largest lake in Africa), a freshwater lake that extends almost the entire length of the country. In addition to its tourist appeal, the lake also provides jobs for hundreds, if not thousands, of fishermen, who catch a popular local fish called "chomba."

After a full-day roadtrip, including a long drive on a rocky dirt road, Beth, Victoria, Tyler, and I finally arrived at Cape Maclear. At first, I was mostly just shocked at how 'weird' it was to see so many "azungus" (foreigners) in one place. After five weeks in Neno, I guess I had just gotten accustomed to being the token white guy who children pointed and stared at. To be honest, it was kind of nice to not stand out for a change, and it was also exciting to speak with other foreigners to find out what kinds of interesting circumstances had landed them in this random beach village in southern Malawi.

For our second day at Cape Maclear, the four of us decided to splurge and take a boat to Thumbi Island (about a mile from the Malawian coast) for a little snorkeling and wildlife adventure. The snorkeling was actually very impressive, and we saw hundreds of different species of cichlids, a fish that is endemic to Malawi. Unfortunately, though, Lake Malawi is also home to a species of parasitic worm that causes schistosomiasis, a chronic GI disease caused by worm larvae that dig into human skin (fun!). Despite the schisto situation, though, Victoria and I made a brief effort to swim the one-mile trek from the Malawian coast to Thumbi Island, but decided to turn around after thoughts of worm larvae and crocodiles became too much!

For our last night at Cape Maclear, we then went to the Gecko Lounge, a swanky restaurant and bar that apparently attracts people from all over the country. After a few drinks, we spent some time socializing with the other foreigners there; but after that quickly lost its appeal, we just sat back and took in the experience...burning it into our memories for a time when we would look back longingly at this unique, otherworldy experience.

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Photos

Malambe Camp...
...where we stayed the first night.