From the floor of a RETSULAUNT in Karonga

Africa » Malawi » Northern » Karonga
November 15th 2007

Published: January 5th 2008

Narrow strips of sunlight broke through the badly constructed walls of the shack - which according to its’ sign - claimed to be a RETSULAUNT. The floor consisted of evened out cow-dung, a greyish-brown sense of cool, on which I lay flat on my back, trying to soak up as much coolness as possible. Outside the day was sweltering and languid. The men of Karonga sat chattering on rickety benches in... Read Full Entry

Photos are below

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Lakeside Laziness

Cape Mclear, sunset. One day I overheard how the owner of Fat Monkey (the overland camp) discussed with the guides of two different overland-truck companies on how to scam the hens inside their overland-trucks on money. It's unbelievable how much contempt everyone feels for the over-landers. Poor drunk, unaware sheep.

African mechanics

Taking apart every single part of my wheel, dropping them in the sand, and then trying to put them back together again with no recollection on how they were connected. That's the technique of African bicycle mechanics. It's no wonder why all the Africans always stand with their bikes broken on the roadsides all the time, they never get fixed properly.

Lemonion

Sweet, sour, strong, enticing and disgusting smells arose from the colourful Zomba market that had an especially well stocked fruit and veg section. Blackberries, Strawberries, Logan berries, Mushrooms, Pumpkins, Watermelon, Passion fruits and so on. What a delight.

The legacy of Saddam is not dead.

The "hang-man shirt" on sale in a mud hut near you. Roadside bikemechanic sporting the latest trend.

The meaning of life along the lake

Everything congregates around the fish in the small villages that straddle the lake shore. In the nights the fishermen go out in great groups, from a distance all their lights looks like stars floating in the dark water. In the morning they come back and it's the womens' job to clean and prepare the fish for the family, and sell what's left.

Chicken race

Transporting poultry on the hot roads of Malawi.

Frosen in time

A moment frozen in time. The caretaker of the Holiday Hotel considering if he should lower the price, we'd just bargained about. He later opted against, and we paid full price.

Crunchy snacks

Deep fried finches went for 10 Kwacha each, the deep fried mice went for 15, but then you got them on a skewer and you could nibble on their tails. Yummy. Bangula.

Commerce

The sprawling market of Limbe at the foot of the Friday Mosque. A great market to get loust and found in for a few hours, full of interesting people and weird unuseful products.

Selfportrait

As Aili's bike crashed we where forced to take public transport from Salima to Lilongwe. A journey of about 100km, destined to take less than an hour and a half, it took us more than six hours of breakdowns, on-offloading of maize and corrupt police officers.

Roadsign

Cruising down Baobab avenue. Nsanje

Village life

Most of the houses in Malawi was actually made of bricks, throughout the whole country. Something we hadn't seen hitherto, but something that got more and more common as we ventured further into East Africa. This was a more "classic" African village though.

Bushdoctor

Cures everything from a broken heart to HIV using only natural medecines like: Bat-blood, the eye of a snake, the tooth of an old baboon or the fibre from a wooden leg.

Unambiguous signs of Malawi

Good old Kapenta graffiti. This was just one of the many colourful wallpaintings that decorates every village in Malawi. The most common signs are signs for Coffins. I had a big Coffin-sign collection on the memorycard I lost. One of my favourites was: Executive Coffins, be differnet be cool, let your belavved live in a coffin in styl! Istant dellivary.

The local news

Posted in one of the biggest newspapers was this story about an old woman being sentenced to jail for teaching witch-craft! How Malawi. How Mesmerizing.

Black Jesus

The Catholic Church at the Mua Mission had chosen to integrate the local tribe’s creation stories into Genesis, and had a huge wooden black Jesus crucified on the wall. They called it "Visual aid" and the story of creation now contained a chameleon and a lizard carrying the earth to the humans. Fairytale as fairytale I suppose.

They don't call it Monkey Bay for nothing

A male Chagma baboon staring back at me in the Cape McClear Nature Reserve before he went down to the lake to quench his thirst. A whole troop of some 30 individuals lived in an abandoned resort at Cape McClear.

Parked for preaching

One of the innumerable "crazy" evangelical churches from America capturing souls in Malawi. The more you pay, the higher the heavenly grace will be once you die. The poor Africans are duped to donate their money to the rich churches, a sad sight.

Further down on Baobab Avenue

Aili riding dirty.

Pathfinders

Young boy and father at Marka. Helping me to find the way further north towards Chikwawa

Bolambe the baker

As a took the picture he hurriedly put his phone, mobile-phone, calcualtor and some coins in front of him to llok wealthy and more affluent. I love Africa.

24th June 2008

Mphatso
non-member comment

INDEED THIS IS MALAWI
well i was born in Nkhatabay,Northern part of Malawi.Yes indeed the pictures are wonderful depicting my beloved country the warm heart of Africa.

10th May 2012

WORainboo
non-member comment

Curiosity.
Gotta admire the curiosity. Sorry 'bout your bike that time, mate. The old guy's got such long fingers!

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From the floor of a RETSULAUNT in Karonga

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