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Published: December 14th 2007
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Nata
Nud Nigel in Nata Thanks for all the messages! Internet connection is quite slow and not ubiquitous so sorry about no pictures as yet - we tried the other day to no avail. We will try again tonight to upload them.
Dec 8
Having consulted a local expert as to what the strange, chaffing sound coming from the wheels was - only to be assured it was just sand caught in the breaks we packed to set off to Lusaka. But on traveling a few kilometers up the road our concerns that it was not the sand but a possible mechanical problem were confirmed when the back wheel came rolling past the front - no that didn’t happen but the noise was starting to sound like a faulty wheel bearing. This was the case - Harry Bennet at Bennet’s Engineering beat the wheelbearing into submission and replaced it with a new part while chewing the cud with Nigel (Carmen had taken to reading her magazines on top of a nearby safari vehicle in for a service) explaining how lucrative it was to work in Zambia.
After three and a half hour delay and a cost of $ 200 we were finally able to
Chobe
Encountering elephants commence onwards to Lusaka. Lusaka is a very industrialized and expensive city (we were advised that it is the second most expensive city in Africa, with Lagos being the first). Our stop for the night was a place just outside Lusaka called Pioneer Camp which is quite rustic. Upon our return to the room later that night after dinner, Nigel’s snake handling skills were called into practice - a huge, black, sashaying snake was craftily hiding in the corner waiting to attack. Being innovative Nigel utilizing an umbrella skillfully proceeded to get bitten on the finger. Had the snake actually been as big as we earlier proclaimed this could have been a fatal end to our trip, instead the fact that it was a 10cm by 1,5 cm snake that cowered in the corner trying desperately to wriggle away from the umbrella and that the bite did not even penetrate Nigel’s skin, rendered the situation in control.
Dec 9
The trip from Lusaka to Chipata was potholed and wet and took about 6 hours to reach Mama Rulas where we were skillfully fleeced of our last remaining Zambian Kwachas. Vodkas and tonics cost us a nice R 70 for
Chobe campsite
A year's planning paid off two doubles.
Dec 10
Upwards and onwards to South Luangwa game reserve, where we found ourselves to be the sole occupants of an entire camp, save for the baboons and vervet monkeys that joined us for lunch - stealing our rolls as it were. Nigel showed his mechanical skills (you can see who is dictating this bit as I type away) by fixing a fellow traveller’s car fridge. For dinner we had flying ants, not intentionally of course - although the locals fry them as they are apparently very tasty and are considered a delicacy - the air was just so full of them after the downpour that they became an inevitable part of our meal.
Dec 11
Did we mention that Zambia is expensive? - getting into the SL game park cost us a cool $75 - some logic that self-drive is more expensive than going on a game drive vehicle. But the drive was great - it is a beautiful park and the main road was okay to drive. Our evening game drive was hosted by Philemon, a very knowledgeable guide and we spotted many spotted genets and one civit.
Dec 12
A glorious sunny
day was spent lounging next to the pool overlooking the river. The camp hasn’t got any fences between the camp and the game and elephants roam into the camp area. Our night drive this time yielded a fantastic sighting of a leopard and her cub, making their way in the night to where their kill was hidden.
Dec 13
Stuck in the mud - no Nigel and I were not childish games with the locals - we literally got stuck in some sticky, dark brown mud so much so that Nigel (again the ever-resourceful boyscout) used his newly acquired winch to pull the car free. Oh and a considerable amount of digging took place (in vain) before resorting to the winch. Carmen of course - being ever-helpful - took the opportunity to film Nigel’s efforts. Nigel may think this was a way of avoiding having to be knee deep in mud - (why on earth would any girl?!!) in fact it was to ensure that a record of Nigel’s prowess (and potbelly) is stored in the canons of our travels.
Going through the border post to enter Malawi was simple and quick. And gloriously cheap in comparison. The
Zambezi
Sunset cruise road to Lilongwe was littered with bicycles, goats, children making third party insurance essential.
Arriving at Livingstonia Hotel in Senga Bay on the Lake we were awestruck by the luxuriousness of the place, more particularly our room number 216. It’s balcony overlooks a private beach - an ideal place for a romantic getaway. We are just waiting to meet someone whom we can have that romantic getaway with.
Dec 14
We are unable to leave. Either because we are too lazy or the weather is just too goddamn good. It’s great here and the country needs tourism.
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