Starting at the village

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Sunday 13th September
I spent the weekend at Mabuya camp in
Lilongwe. I needed to do some shopping and I wanted to be nearer civilisation. Yesterday morning, shopping done, with a heavy rucksack and two bags I set off for the local hotel, where I could get a drink and get a taxi back to camp. This hotel, the Kiboko, is one I have had a drink at every time I've been to the shopping centre: in 2012, 2014, and about four times this year. It's about 300 yards from the shopping centre, admittedly round two corners, but still very local. There I was, carrying 10 litres of water, saucepan, vacuum flask and general provisions, feeling the way one does when one has spent half the night in the loo, and couldn't find the hotel. I stumbled about round the ditch at the side of the road, thinking that I didn't remember there being a hill, and not recognising any of the shops. The second person I asked knew where the Kiboko was, I'd turned right instead of left at the crossroads. Thank heaven most people speak English here, and the shop signs are readable. If this was Greece or somewhere with a different alphabet I'd be stuffed.
I'd taken a bicycle taxi down to the shops. Normally I walk - about 15 minutes - but was feeling a bit fragile, so paid the 250 kwacha (30p) to sit on a seat behind the young man and get ridden down there. It's reasonably comfortable, there are places for your feet, and the seat is cushioned, but at the edge of the road the tarmac peters out into baked mud, minibuses overtake and people step out without warning. I felt safer walking.
The rest of the day I spent by the pool or sleeping, but still went to bed at 7pm. If you are not eating, or drinking alcohol, there doesn't seem to be a lot to stay up for. And I'd finished my book.
I'll be leaving here at 11am to go back to the village, sharing a cab with a couple of Germans who are going to the airport. And tomorrow morning at 7.30 am I ll start observing in with Standard 6, 7 and 8 teachers. Watch this space.

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