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Published: June 12th 2008
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That is how we hear about Libya for the first time in Turkey, in history lessons with the word "Trablusgarp". The last soil of the Ottoman Empire in Africa would be the first place I would put my feet in Africa. There are also other firsts and lasts in Libyan history. Like the word Asia was first used by Greeks for the land where Turkey is located today, the word Africa was first time used for Libya by Romans. While under Ottoman rule it was the first state which declared war to America and where Americas first overseas military campaign took place. During Italo-Turkish war in 1912, it was the first place where air power used in a war by Italians and where anti-aircraft guns, of course by Turks. Also the first battle of great Turkish leader Kemal Ataturk was this war, when he was still a young captain.
The flight from Turkey takes about 3 hours. My first impression was not that good for Libyan people as I witnessed a local woman did her best to steal a pillow from the plane while we were departing. She was caught, pillow was retaken and justice was fulfilled. The landscape is
quite mediterranean between Tripoli and the airport. Lots olive, citrus and date palms. With its 2-3 floors yellowish coloured buildings Tripoli does not impress you at first. The pictures of the one man leader of the country, Qaddafi and propogonds of Great Socialist Arab People's Arab Republic can be seen on the main junctions. Qaddafi has come to the power in Libya after a military coup in 1969, and till that time governing the country with full authority. We passed in front of his palace many times, I mean I guess he lives in a palace as you can' t see anything as the complex is surronded with high walls with many sentry towers.
You do not see the extreme skyscaper architecture or luxurious shooping malls etc like the oil rich gulf countries in Libya, however the country has also a very high income from the oil. Buildings are more modest and sometimes even neglected. There is not a trace of luxury as the supreme leader is living a modest life and the country is run by a socialist economy.
Even though there is not any grandeur of modern architecture there is enough of history in Libya. Central
Libyan style shoopping mall
Used to be a palace during Turkish era. Tripoli is full of traces from Ottooman Empire times and Italian colonial era. The most distictive building is the Saray Al Hamra , also called Red Castle which was the palace of the governors of Tripoli all through the history. Turkish Karamanli family governed the state over 2 centuries and lived in this palace. After the country was invaded by Italians the Italian governors also chose the palace for their offices. Now the palace is a magnificient museum. Finding the entry was a bit troublesome but inside was wonderful. Especially the statues from greek times are very little damaged and I got suprised when I enter the saloon with full of these big statues as I did not expect to see such a rich collection. Another suprise for me was in the upper floors there was a corner for photos of the Turkish - Italian war and Kemal Ataturk was also one of the officers in a photo taken for local militia and Turkish officers.
Behind the museum is the old town with its narrow streets, small shops and all time crowd. When you are walking in these markets you know the trade has been going on maybe for
Market place in Medina
Many street are sukh's (markets). Biggest one is Sukh el Turk. (Turkish market) more than 1000 years in the same streets, in the same way. The atmosphere is a 1001 night tale one with all the Arabic shop keepers, African tailors, birds in the cages, mosques and prayers you may hear while walking in these narrow streets. There is also no need to fear for security as Libya is a country under control by the strict regime. However walking in these streets as a European or western looking girl maybe be more different as allmost all the women I saw were traditionally covered.
Generally I can say I have not seen a city with so many shops like Tripoli. Our hosts told me most of the Libyan people work in a government job and at the same time run a shop as the working conditions in the government offices are quite relaxed. Maybe there is one shop per person in Tripoli. For me the interesting one was a honey shop and I bought jars of natural and delicous Libya honey.
Food is cheap and clean in Libya. However there is not much variety, mostly pizza, fast food and kebaps. But I should not forget fish. The fish market, or Sukh-ul Huut
in Arabic was my favorite place in this trip. I went there 5 times and consumed maybe some 100 kgs of fish. As having 2000 km's of coast for only 5 million people, fish is plenty, cheap and fresh. You may buy your own fish in this market, of course with bargaining and then may give to the small restaurants around and take your seat. It will be cooked for you for a reasonable price. I should add alcohol is forbidden in the country.
People in the restaurants or in the hotels may speak English to an extent, but in the streets it is hard to find anyone to show you addresses. One funny thing I lived was I hired a taxi which the driver did not speak a word of English. With sign language I tried to tell him I want to go to fish market, but minutes of struggle did not produce any result. At last I called my host and he spoke for me with this driver. When we reached the place he told me thank you in Russian and I asked him if he speaks Russian. He could, owing to her previous girlfiriend and a
Tripoli museum
Some carvings from ancient times. Camels of course. few minutes we chat in Russian. I was not expecting an Arabic taxi driver who bypassed all European languages and learnt Russian and he was not expecting a Turkish in Libya who can speak Russian. So we are living in really a small world.
Our business partners showed a great deal of Arabic hospitality and took me to Janzoor a resort 50 kms from Tripoli. A government owned resort with apart otels and with a clean sea. Only thing I did not like was the beach in North Africa is not as sandy as in Turkey but rather rocky. As being a male dominant country hard to see any girls in bikinis. Many, many groups of guys were hanging out in the beach. And girls were with their families in their long dresses and head scurfs.
As the country is big it is hard to cover all interesting spots while you are on a business trip. Roman cities Sabbarath and Leptus Magna, oaisis in the Sahara desert, Bengazi and virgin beaches in the coast were left for another trip. And another meaning of this trip for me was, I decided to quit my current job which gives me
the opportunuty to see all these middle eastern countries. Lets say jobs end but travels don't.
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