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Hello!
Todd, great to hear that all is well in Istanbul. (Todd is attending the annual conference on Globalization for the Common Good.) I am now back home in Ottawa after a long flight and a missed connection in Toronto due to tightened security in Heathrow, London. Although I am home, the journey does not end as I continue to process everything. I imagine a few more blogs will be posted over the next while as Todd and I revisit some particularly gripping events during the trip. For now, I will pick up where Todd left off and tell you about our 3-day safari at Maasai Mara.
It was a 5-hour drive to Maasai Mara (Serengetti) from Nairobi. The roads were partially paved...or maybe it was just that the potholes spanned the entire width of the road. Hard to tell, but even Kenyans joke about the poor road conditions. They say "Last year it was a 4-hour drive to Maasai Mara, this year it's a 5-hour drive, next year it will be a 6-hour drive". The good news is that Todd and I were the only two passengers, so we had the jeep to ourselves throughout the 3-day
safari.
The road to Maasai Mara is beautiful regardless the potholes. We passed through Rift Valley which is lush with all sorts of cactus trees and acacias. The valley also sports a dormant volcano. As we neared the Mara park, the trees became few and far between, occasionally spotting the plains. The plains stretched as far as the eye can see, and small groups of animals began to show themselves. Zebras first, followed by gazelles and giraffes. I was in awe. Interspersed with these animals were groups of Maasai warriors taking their cattle out to graze. They were easy to spot in the distance with their bright red shukas.
We arrived at the Sianna campsite just outside the Mara park. The accommodations were something else: big tents with actual beds inside, rugs on the cement floor, washroom and shower. We were warned to keep the tent zipped up at all times to avoid letting the monkeys ransack the place for food. We abided by this rule but the monkeys still made their presence known. They shrieked in trees above our tent, keeping me awake most of the first night.
We did three game drives over three days,
each drive different from the other. The first was at dusk, the second was an 11-hour day-long run, and the third was at dawn. I don't think I could ever tire of watching the animals in thier natural habitat. In a way, Todd and I were the ones caged up in our jeep as the wild giraffes, elephants, zebras, wildebeast, gazelles, topis looked at us with great curiosity. We saw pretty much everything except a rhinoceros, which apparently are pretty rare these days due to poaching for their prized horn.
We did get to see a couple of lion prides which were most impressive. It's neat to see a bunch of big kitties just hanging out and rolling around in the mid-afternoon sun. We also saw a huge lion chilling in a thick bush. He was looking a little tired and weak though. Then I understood why. A lionness hiding in the same bush jumped out from behind with a big roar. I wasn't sure how to interpret the situation, especially when our driver hastily started up the jeep. He drove around a couple other jeeps to reposition us with a better view. Turns out they were a mating
pair and they...ummm...well, they did the deed in front of us! Twice! After each "deed", they would plop on their sides panting as though they had just hunted a hundred gazelle.
Lasly, we were able to walk along the Mara River escorted by a local policeman who was armed with a rifle. We were told we didn't have a choice about his presence and that we should probably give him a bit of money at the end as a thank you. Being the captive audience that we were, we naturally obliged. Steve was a great guide, very friendly. He showed us the hippopotamuses (or is it hippopotami?) that lazily lined the river. He reminded us how among the Serengetti kingdom, hippopotami contribute the least to the "economy" as they just laze around in their grandure doing absolutely nothing. Hard to believe they are vegetarians ;-) We also saw crocodiles who, we learn, patiently await the wildebeast migration in July/August. We walked to where the migration crossing was. Apparently up to 6million wildebeast cross the river non-stop over the course of two months. They come to Kenya from Tanzania when their food supply runs out. Unfortunately we missed the beginning
of the migration since the good weather in Tanzania has prolonged the wildebeasts food source. Maybe next time...
Please enjoy the safari pictures as I move on to the Maasai tribe. The Maasai inhabit the Mara. You may have seen them on tv at some point sporting their bright red shukas, multiple beaded necklaces, and big gaping holes in their ear lobes. Population has risen from half a million 10 years ago to 2.5 million present day. They live primarily on their livestock, milk, and blood (so no veggies whatsoever). Interestingly, there has never been a reported case of cancer, high blood pressure, or cholesterol.
We had the fortune of meeting two "modern" Maasai warriors who go to school but adhere to their cultural traditions. They described to us some of the rights of passage, such as the mandatory circumcision of males between age 15 and 18 (owie...). The event takes place in front of the entire community and it is a test of courage and bravery. If they successfully withstand the pain, they are rewarded with a gift from each member attending the event, usually in the form of livestock. Typically up to 2 or 3 hundred
tribe members may attend. This is a lot of livestock, which essentially elevates the newly circumcized warrior's status. If unsuccessful in braving the pain, the Maasai receives no livestock and he is shunned from the community.
So there is a glimpse of the Serengetti in its raw and real form (except for the posh campsite we stayed at...) We learn that few Kenyans visit the Maasai Mara, mostly because they can't afford it. Somehow that just seems wrong.
Bye for now, Cristelle
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