Update from Dago, via Migori

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Greetings all! This is my second attempt in two weeks to get this sent. Last week, power blackout, then today no connection. I waited it out, and hoping to get this off. Thanks for all the birthday wishes. Last week (actually on my birthday!) I read many of the emails, and had hoped to send out greetings to my birthday pals, but was unable to do all the technical issues here. So, to my several birthday pals, including Ro, Helen, and Jeanne - a belated Happy Birthday. Also, to my sister Shelley, if Jo sees this to pass on.

Today I greet you from Migori, a town smaller and closer to Dago than Kisii. Much less hectic than Kisii, and I even found brown rice in a store here! Until now, had to go to Kisii, as locals have not even heard of it, much less eaten it. But everyone who tries it likes it. Unfortunately, it is too expensive for most to buy. One kilo (2.2 lbs.) costs 106 shillings at Kisii supermarket (Nakumatt) and 130 here in Migori - $1.50-2.00 for me, but over a day’s wages for the average poor person in Kenya.

The internet place in Migori is very nice, and has modern, fast equipment. Unfortunately, last week when I first came here, the connection was lost soon after I started, then after resuming, the power went out for the remainder of the day. Typical for here. Power blackouts are common, and last for minutes to all day. No warnings, or announcements—you just have to wait. Everyone takes it in stride. Some places use gas generators, and most activities just carry on.

In villages like Dago, there is no electricity, and those that can afford it use solar power. In this area, electricity is only available at centers along the main road. It was surveyed and planned for Dago prior to the election, but then the election went awry and most projects were suspended. The positive side is that when electricity does come, it will be a back up to solar power, for those that have, to be used for needs not met by solar—and not the reverse, as generally in our case.

Another positive is that some of the donated funds earmarked for electrical hookup at the orphanage have been released by the donor to buy food. And, good timing, since food prices have escalated, and food funds exhausted. The donor (Lorna Janz) lives on Duncan Island in Canada - BC I believe - and was here sometime in the past couple of years with her husband (Paul). He is a “fundi” (skilled), and built kitchen work tables, and I think library bookshelves for the orphanage while here. I was able to speak with the Lorna via cell when she called to inform the Odoyos of the funding reallocation. We had a nice conversation and I caught her up on orphanage plans and activities, as well as my own. Lorna also informed us that her own fundraising efforts will now be joined by her 12 year old niece’s school.

Continuing with some of the local flavor:

Ranen (Ruh NEN) center, the small town on the main road from which branches the dirt road to Dago, is a small market area bustling with activity. Major activities along the main road in the center include matatus dropping and picking passengers, shops (a bit ramshackle by our standards - think old wild west towns but with a combination of wood, brick, and concrete, mostly with metal roofing called iron sheets) which line both sides of the road providing goods and services, marketers cooking lentil-filled (“green grams”) samosas and maize cobs over small charcoal burners.

At the one main intersection (we are talking small here - don’t blink!), the four corners: (1) Motor bike (piki pikis) and bicycle (boda bodas) drivers hang out, awaiting passengers and small cargo; (2) women selling bananas (rabolo); the newspaper sells out quickly - the independent Standard, not the government-backed Nation (reading of the Nation fell to zero amongst ODM supporters - opposition to party in power - which is most of the people in this area of the country, following the rigged election. The paper is now promoting heavily and sponsoring contests with radio stations in order to boost readership). Kenyans are fanatical about politics, and news in general; (3) a woman has a kiosk where we purchase machungas (oranges), passion fruit and other produce; and (4) the maize sellers, a group of women who display their various varieties of maize on tarps on the ground, where they sit for hours daily selling the indispensable staple of the area, maize, which is ground into flour to make kwon (ugali in Kiswahili), the most loved food and staff of life to these people. A kilo of maize (mature corn kernels) now costs about 40 shillings (60 cents). People take their own maize and grains, which they either grow or buy, to a mill for grinding, which costs 5 shillings (7 or 8 cents). The mills are very small (again, think ramshackle!) one-person operations that grind for one customer at a time. Therefore, each center requires a few mills to meet demand. The poorest may take just enough maize to get them through the day, if that’s all they can afford. A few weeks ago when the line was long at the mill Pamela prefers, we went to another we noticed had no line. I think I know why: chickens and turkeys had the run of the place - on the floor, rafters, and all over the equipment. And, they didn’t budge when the deafening machine started. I could imagine ground turkey feathers and other unmentionable poultry additions to the maize flour that is ground there. But, it was getting dark, so you try not to think about those things. Just like the flies and other bugs on food.....

The power is going out so sending. Hope to be back in a couple of days to relay some new experiences of past couple of weeks.

Best to all. Peace and love,
Deni

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