From Dago, Ranen and other East Sakwa places

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Greetings all! Time is flying by, yet I have no concept of time. Everyday is much the same here. Some days warmer or cooler, more sun or clouds, rain or not - but generally the same. Seasons are only marked by rain or not, and even those seasons are not reliable. Then, there is the time in a day. Even though I know that Africa time, especially in the rural areas, rules the day, I can’t help but hope each day that we will actually get to a place at the scheduled time (or at least within one hour!), or that I will accomplish all that I would like to. Lately, I have displayed some frustration and crankiness, but am really trying to be patient.

In addition to several local support groups (self-help groups with income-generating projects), I have now visited all the sublocations in East Sakwa location. At each place, I met with the social worker, mentors (community health workers that pay home visits for support, education, provide aid items, help take to medical center, etc.), and at least one support group under a mentor. First, we toured the group shamba(s) (garden/field), then went to a host’s home for a meal and meeting. Members tell me about their projects - progress and challenges, improvement to their lives in the past few months since APHIA II Nyanza, the USAID sponsored program, came into their lives. My connection with AIIN is that in this location, Dago Dala Hera is the community-based organization through which the services are provided.

It is apparent that the local people (everyone, actually, except for cronies and same tribal members as Kibaki govt.) have been ignored by the government of Kenya, and have been left to their own devices for survival. There is no government safety net here for the poor, elderly, sick, infant, child, etc. No social programs to fall back on. The poor here (so many!) scrape and toil to survive. And generally do so without complaint. And do so from dawn until long after dark. Whether you are sick, weak, or elderly, if you have no other means of support, survival requires you to toil in your shamba for food and perhaps something to sell at the market - if you can get there. No collecting your check in the mail and going to the food bank or whatever….nothing! Thanks to international aid, the Kenyan govt. offers free testing and medicine for TB, malaria, and HIV. If not for aid, things would be sorry (hopelessly sorry, that is) indeed.

So, I have also been attending meetings at the local govt. level to learn about the system here, so I can help out in any way. My little bit will be to facilitate education of the rural folks in this location as to the regional organizations and government services they can access to help them with economic development. In addition, I am compiling a listing of all support groups in the location, including their projects, aims/objectives, challenges, etc., to provide to the location chief and his newly-formed economic development committee.

Let me now turn to some local flavor for some lighter reading. It really is beautiful in this location, as I've partially (and inadequately) described in previous reports. I really am lucky to be in this place. Lots of trees and interesting crops. Bougainvillea is common, lush, and gorgeous, and mostly in splashes of fushia, magenta, gold, and orange. Hibiscus grow on large trees, and all a coral color. In this area, which is elevated, I've seen many landscape plants that we enjoy at home, and which I have had in my yards in Washington and California, including day lilies.

Other nature treats include lighting, which lights the sky almost nightly, whether it rains or not. Fireflies are a nighttime delight. Crickets here are deafening! The other night it sounded like a transformer was going crazy in the compound. Then there are the bats. Usually only like an occasional shadow (they are small and harmless), or winged flutters passing by. But the past few nights, I've had a lonely one in the compound that sends out audible sonar signals into the night - seemingly calling out for a companion.

Mosquitoes have been surprisingly absent, and the many bottles of repellent lay unused in my suitcase. At Dago, I have not been bothered by bugs, except for the one that drives me absolutely mad - the common housefly! I hate them! I know they are around because of all the animals. Between the cows, sheep, and chickens, the flies have a heyday. But as soon as a door or window opens, they are on me, and everything on the eating table. I have to laugh at the things I have to accept. Flies on food, cats trolling for food while we eat (I know you cat lovers don't find this a bit strange - but I hate cats!!!! And they make me ill when they are around me, especially when I am eating!!!), other animals coming into the house when visiting in hut style houses - e.g., chickens and goats, livestock munching on the lawn and pooping everywhere, soaking my pants while sweating on a matatu crammed up against other crammed in passengers - sometimes with the conductor smashed against me, walking or taking transport to a center to use a computer and finding the electricity out......

I wish I was a creative writer so I could draw you a picture of this amazing place. Nothing paved (beyond main roads), with red dirt everywhere. Claptrap (I hope that isn't a nasty word!) and makeshift shops, women sitting on the ground on their wraps or mats, selling their vegetables or other goods. But, with all this that to us seems so primitive, the people live just like we do in our towns and cities. You would not believe how well people dress and how well groomed. The same as in our places. Some look fantastic at all times, most look very nice most of the time - whether dressy or casual, and a few dress grunge, hiphop, or tropical casual. Most people bathe just before going to town, whether to the market (to work or to shop) or on business. Women are very modest, due to religious culture, and wear dresses, matching skirts and tops, or skirts and long t-shirts. Men wear slacks and shirts, mostly long and out, but some tuck in with belt. Shoes vary from hard leather to flipflops. But, I can't believe how many women walk for miles on hard dirt (or muddy) roads in hard shoes - just to look nice. Some women wear their hair cut very close to the head, which I think is most attractive because it shows off their beautiful faces. Some wear head scarves, artistically arranged. And many use straitener and creams to slick their hair down - they want straight, smooth hair. If it sticks up they say they look shaggy. Some get their hair plaited in tight rows, some of which have extensions added, including colors. And, some wear wigs, most of which look kind of silly. I like the short, natural look best, but fashion is in demand even in rural Kenya! Many teenage girls are fighting the traditional modesty of loose, long skirts and tops and want to wear tight jeans and other sexy outfits that are driving mothers crazy. Fundamentally, people are the same here and there. This is the best thing that I have learned, and which I enjoy every day.

Well, must sign off. Susan awaits with the patience of Job (or a female version!). Hotmail would not allow me to reply to any messages, but I have read them, and thank many of you for your encouraging messages. Hotmail is difficult to access and use here. Gmail is better. So best to email at [e-mail]. I tried to change email address with travelblog to my gmail today. Hope I did it correctly, so the messages you leave on this site will forward to gmail, instead of hotmail. My cell phone is not connecting to email. Grace, and anyone else, you are welcome to forward my blog to anyone. Shanti, love the kilt pictures! Carolyn, thanks for the IFHE grant info. I have printed and will submit.

Best to all. Will most likely remain in Dago until just prior to departure from Nairobi to Ghana on April 21. Hope for a safari in the Masaii Mara Reserve before I go. Take good care. Blog again in one or two weeks.

Love,
Deni

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