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Published: August 29th 2006
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Hello All…I have been travelling the last 10 days to Nairobi, Dar es Salaam and safari in the Masai Mara - or Mara as Kenyans call it. The latter is listed as one of the top ten places to visit in one’s lifetime and it did not disappoint…I promise to do a separate blog on my Safari Experience.
I was welcomed home in Kisumu like a long lost family member. The Imperial Hotel is very much becoming my home away from home. I was even met at the airport by my favourite Kisumu taxi driver - Daniel. I have his cell number and he is available to transport me around town. Finding Daniel has been great as it has given me added independence. Today has been a day of regrouping, sorting through photes (over 200) and catching up on emails and blogs. Tomorrow I will be heading to the FACES clinic. I hadn’t been in Nairobi more than 10 minutes yesterday when the phone started to ring (no service in the Mara) - George was wanting me to come to the clinic. He has talked with his coordinator and they have some volunteer work for me.
As for the
last few days, I really enjoyed my time in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam (Dar for short). Monday was spent in Nairobi with Ebba and I touring Aga Khan University Facilities and meeting the executive team of the Aga Khan University, Nursing program, hospital, and education services. Many of this team are Canadian - I was struck by how small our world is. In fact, the resource development director, Shairoz, is from Edmonton my home town. I was greatly impressed with the Aga Khan University leaders - the majority are women. Funny how I would be impressed and comfortable in that setting!! (wink!) These are visionaries on a mission to bring high quality education and improve the health care system of East Africa. We talked a lot about accessibility, relevance, and quality -- Particularly the notion that access is irrelevant without quality. Models of excellence in my experience defines the Aga Khan Development Network - which Aga Khan University is a part of. I felt very at home with this team and thought - I could work with these people!
Shairoz generously arranged for Ebba and I to go to the Pakistan High Commission by car later in the
afternoon. Our task was not to leave without a Pakistan Visa. Friends in Ottawa and Calgary had made arrangements with the High Commission to issue me a Visa. I had been declined initially because I had applied out of country. But with true chica perseverance and the help of wonderful friends in high places (thank you Sherali and Khalil), I was able to meet the Pakistan First Secretary in Nairobi. He had lived in Canada for 3 years - thought very highly of his time while in Canada and said he would be pleased to issue my Visa within 24 hours. We would return on Tuesday at 11. With that business out of the way, Ebba toured me around Nairobi, dropped me off at the hotel for a bit of a break and then picked me up for dinner. Our destination was the infamous Carnivore Restaurant. And what an experience! The menu is all inclusive and after soup and salad, waiters wander around with assorted roasted meats on big skewers with a very large knife. They carve the meat right off the carcus at your table right in front of you. And we are talking all varieties - chicken, beef,
turkey, lamb, camel, crocodile, ostrich. I was not so taken with the camel -- but loved the crocodile! There was also a variety of sauces - one for each meat. What an experience. And when you have had enough…can’t possibly look at another piece of meat…you remove your white flag from its holder in a gesture of surrender. But you are not finished because dessert, tea and coffee are included. I of course was going to pass until I spied the pineapple pie - I have never had pineapple pie - so I had to try it - and it is good!
Tuesday was spent with Ebba and her sister Jacinta. We did a bit of shopping, cargo pants and a sweater were on my list. As it turns out cargo pants are very practical in these parts with zippered or velcroed pockets to hide your cash and phone - thus not needing to carry a purse. -- Very useful when in crowded areas such as a market. And the last thing I tossed out of my suitcase in Calgary was a black sweater - mistake - evenings and mornings can be cool, especially in Nairobi. We were successful on finding both pants and sweater at a local mall - Woolworths of all places for the cargo pants. We were then off to the Pakistan High Commission in “Mom’s Taxi” as Ebba refers to her Toyota station wagon. And we had further success - my Pakistan Visa was ready (yeah!). So with passport containing new visa in hand we were off to the Masai Market. This is a local market - downtown Nairobi on Tuesdays and full of wonderful local handicrafts. The market moves around locations during the week. I was shopping with two local pros and learned very quickly what was a reasonable price for me to pay. The price quoted initially for me was at times 3 times on what we settled on. Now I accept that I will pay more…in fact I am very ok with this,,,,but thank you Ebba and Jacinta for helping establish some pricing points. A chica never likes to get ripped off. And this will come in handy for souvenir shopping.
We were then off to the airport. With new security measures - yes even in Nairobi which is considered one of the least secure airports, combined with traffic…I had to be at the airport some 3 hours before my flight to Dar es Salaam - an international flight afterall..as I was leaving Kenya and entering Tanzania. The flight to Dar was at 6:30 pm…we pulled into Jomo Kenyatta International airport a little after 3 pm. Ebba dropped Jacinta and I off at the terminal while searching for parking - another challenge. Jacinta and I waited and waited - no Ebba. I flashed her to find out where she was - turns out she was hit by another car while parking and they were settling matters…which you do on the spot…as the young fellow didn’t have insurance. So Ebba suggested he give her 300 bob (shillings) or they together drive to a mechanic. He paid the 300 bob. Ebba took this all in stride as we hugged and I thanked her for a wonderful 2 days.
So now what is a chica to do in an international airport for 3 hours???? Well …how do you spell duty free???? And of course I needed to find a coffee…latte preferred. There is a great coffee house chain in Nairobi called Nairobi Java House. Yes Kenyas version of Starbucks including the great branding. And they make amazing lattes and something called a malindi macchiato (an addiction of Rachel and her room mate) - as near as I can tell this is a mochaccino with cinnamon and cloves - quite lovely really with an Arabian flare! So fully caffeinated and spiced up … I hit the numerous duty free stores. I tested all perfumes and settled on a 3 pact of Kenzo’s new potion called Flower. I bought two beaded necklaces for a good price (because I now had the bench marks). I looked at luggage knowing full well I will need to buy another piece to bring home treasures in at some point and I tried on all manners of safari hats - deciding to wait until I got to the Mara. That's it for now folks..stay tuned for my impressions of Dar and the Mara. Cheers, Jan
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