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Published: September 11th 2008
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Following my last blog (which I guess I’ll be posting at the same time as this one as I haven’t managed to get online since writing it) quite a lot has happened. None of it was on Friday at work though as they just sent me to the “resource room” (read: overstuffed 2’ bookshelf) to read 5 year old pamphlets on work that has nothing to do with the organisation. Luckily the resource room holds another treasure: a locked case of paperbacks that staff can borrow for up to 4 days at a time if they get special permission. 4 rows of Jane Austen, Barbara Cartland and the Bible and Koran in English. I haven’t got started on it yet...
In the evening I met up with Anique, a Dutch VSO based in Mtwapa, a town about 45 minutes outside of Mombasa. We went for a mango juice and ice cream at a bar in town then headed to the other side of the bridge to meet Wayne, a Philippino VSO based in Mombasa also. I found out that my side of the Nyali bridge is the place to be (Wayne and another VSO, Shariq from India, live there also)
and that I’m within walking distance of both of their places. It was so nice to meet them and they were so good at making me feel comfortable and more relaxed about being here - I’m really grateful for that. Dinner was good - quite a posh place overlooking the sea plus some extra strong Smirnoff Black. Mmm. I slept well on Friday.
I spent a sweaty Saturday looking for a new mossie net in town. As Solwodi have bought me the biggest bed in the world (or so it feels) the net VSO gave me is a long way from fitting over it and I had just been camping under it a bit for the last few nights.
I think I mentioned before that its Ramadan - it certainly makes an impact here - even on the lives of the non-Muslims. Lots of people fast in solidarity with friends and colleagues and some just see it as a good chance to lose weight. Personally I just feel a bit rude stuffing my face when my colleagues can’t even take water for nearly 14 hours a day. It’s not difficult to go without as the heat has made
my appetite go away anyway (Shock! Horror!), but I find it impossible not to drink water in the heat of the day. The evenings (when food and drink are allowed anyway) are quite cool right now so not a problem for eating or anything else anyway.
Shariq invited Wayne and I to break the fast with him on Saturday night, so we went up the road to the Youth Polytechnic where he works and lives to meet him and have dinner before his evening prayers were due to start. It’s good to know that there’s a good cook in the midst and not far away! I found out a bit more about the area and the other volunteers in the Coast Province. My arrival made 8 people - before the post election violence in January there had been more volunteers but some didn’t return after being evacuated so the numbers are a bit low right now. We had also been in contact with another VSO, Diana, throughout the day as she was heading down to Mombasa with her employer that day to become the 9th coast volunteer (I’m not the newbie anymore!).
Sunday, after Nakumart (a local supermarket) orientation with Shariq I headed to town to look for an internet cafe but instead found the hotel Diana was staying at and met up with her and Wayne for lunch and a wonder around the old town. It was a lovely day and the first time I have seen Mombasa quiet, although not deserted as I guess the Muslim population still had business to do. We met up with Julie who is visiting from Lamu and a friend of hers, Suleiman who is from Luton and setting up a boutique hotel on Pate Island, just north of Lamu. Finally! I had a Tusker beer after hearing so much about these things. They are good, it’s true, but after a week of little alcohol I decided to stick to just one.
The house Diana had been allocated on arrival had turned out to be a complete shitehole so to give her an idea of what was available (and for me to see what else there was) she, Wayne and I headed over to my house then Wayne’s then to another volunteer’s to check out alternatives. I have realised that I’m pretty lucky with what I have but I want to find somewhere that is not ground floor and has either a balcony or some outside space and is much quieter. The fact that this apartment is surrounded by loud people on three sides and is about 10m away from a mosque means that there is very little quiet and no room I can go to for a bit of piece. If I don’t shut my curtains then passers-by are all looking to get a glimpse of the mzungu’s house which means that its always dark and all my valuables (this laptop and until I open an account, all my cash) have to be hidden away at all times which I’m not sure is a great way to live, even if my apartment is secure.
I wasn’t sure what to expect with work today, but luckily it was quite productive. Elizabeth, my boss, was in and organised some orientation meetings with staff members. I went on a hospital visit with Grace, the FHI programme (APHIA II) coordinator to meet hospital contacts and see what the project does for the hospital. The visit took nearly all day and speaking to Grace and going with her to make the visits were extremely interesting. As well as meeting staff we made some visits to some project clients who needed either a chat or some medicine bought for them. We visited the maternity ward and the AIDS wards, both of which were pretty grim but it was clear that they could have been an awful lot worse than they were. Surprisingly the AIDS wards were quite empty - only about 20% full; the nurses joked that the patients were taking a break for Ramadan.
I’ve already got a clearer idea of what I’m here to do and talking to the hospital staff and seeing the work that happens is helping me understand the situation. It feels better than the unknown and being unsure of what is needed and expected of me. Hopefully (!) it can only get clearer from here.
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Teekai
non-member comment
Wow
WOW, It sounds like an experience. You're very brave and I'm sure you'll do good work. I'll keep reading your blog I'm curious to know how your work develops....so keep writing you'll have one regular reader!