Trading Places

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Compared to my last Halloween, this October 31st was uniquely wholesome, simple and joyful. As interesting as it was to be lost in the streets of Santa Barbara among thousands of drunk college students, dressed as Naughty Nurses or Slutty Bees, laughing at my brother and his frat boy friends in Hooters girls’ uniforms, I actually preferred the tailored African rendition of the holiday this year.

Since I don’t know any other foreigners this time, I had to educate the family and neighbors on our glorious but difficult-to-explain American tradition. With the costume materials available being only “regular” clothes, I dressed Becky and the kids in my “obruni gear” and wore the gifts I have been given since I arrived: a Northern smock from my supervisor at the hospital, clay beads from one of the nurses, African leather sandals and Becky’s headscarf. We then posed for pictures, acting out each other’s real-life roles. Though I guess it could appear a little bit offensive to the politically-correct people at home, the Ghanaians seemed to love the idea of obruni and obibini (African) switching places for a day. I’ve always had fun deciding what I want to be for Halloween, choosing one or two options out of the countless possibilities, but until last weekend I didn’t understand what a powerful opportunity, however superficial, an alternative identity really is. Here especially, people don’t often get the chance to walk in someone else’s shoes, even in jest, to abandon the boring and limited existence they’re stuck in everyday and join a different world.

I didn’t have the time to prepare everyone in advance, so the participants were few, but it was festive nonetheless. Kwesi proudly schlepped my backpacking backpack around the neighborhood, a can of bug spray in hand and sunglasses shading his eyes from the setting sun. Abena had on my swim suit and goggles but threw a tantrum because I wouldn’t give her toffee, so she was eliminated from the parade. Becky was too embarrassed to go but hammed it up for the photo shoot, dabbing sunscreen on herself and talking in a high voice (which they always do when imitating us for some reason). Auntie Theresa’s son was excited to join us and put on his most slick Western clothes. He wanted to take a trotro all the way to the main junction to his friends’ house and show off his obruni-ness, but it was getting dark and our candy supply was small.

Reverse trick-or-treating turned out to be more fun than the usual way. Though I don’t think anyone really understood why, they were happy to receive a complimentary lollipop and get pictures taken with the funny-looking wanna-be African girl. The next day and for a few days afterward, everyone was asking me,

“Please, Auntie Tay, no toffee today?”

“Ahh,” I told them, “that’s the beauty of Halloween!”

(I was waiting for pictures, but they'll have to come later, no USB cord)

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Photos

Dressing up the fam
Becky spraying sunscreen on herself and talking about all the "obruni" things she did today

A little confusing
The kids didn't quite get it, but how cute is Abena in my swimming gear?!