Monkeys and motorbikes

---

Recently, I heard someone from my group say that in Ghana especially, it’s not the destination that matters so much as the journey, and I couldn’t agree more. It usually takes so long to get anywhere here that by the time you reach your intended destination, you usually aren’t surprised to find that it wasn’t what you anticipated it to be, it wasn’t the right place anyway, or it never actually existed. But that’s almost always ok, because although long trips for nothing can be disappointing, you are usually in for an adventure in just trying to get there.
This last weekend four other girls from my group and I set out to have an adventure early Saturday morning, and an adventure is what we got.
First, we had to go to the tro-tro station and try our best to get on the one headed to Hohoe, a town in the Volta region. Well, we managed to get on the right one, but I can’t quite tell you that it was in any way a comfortable ride. I was in the very back row of seats and the seat in front of mine was broken, so every time we hit a bump (which was VERY often, mind you) the seat would fly back and smash my legs. The window next to me was also wide open, so I thought I was gonna fly right out the window every time we hit a speed bump. We were bouncing around so much that it felt like our own little rodeo back there. Too bad we had to stay on for 4 hours instead of 8 seconds…
Anyway, when we got to our stop, about 20 km from Hohoe, we were left standing in the scorching heat with not a clue what to do next or which direction to go. Luckily, a few of the local girls came right over and volunteered to show us the way to Tafi Atome - a monkey sanctuary village about 5 km further into the middle of nowhere than we already were. They walked us about a kilometer down a red gravel road, which felt like a walk through the desert, until we spotted a truck driving through the next village we came to.
Well, as you might guess, we didn’t feel much like walking if we could hitch a ride, so we flagged them down and climbed in. We rode in the back on the flat bed, standing up and holding on to the front of the bed. It was pretty frickin’ sweet if you ask me. I kind felt like we were on our own personal little safari.
When we got there, we booked our room - 14 cedis for our rooms, dinner, breakfast, and a tour of the village/sanctuary. Not to say that we were staying in the lap of luxury, but it wasn’t bad at all. We each got our own room - which consisted of a foam bed, a mosquito net and a small table. The bathrooms were outside but there were bucket showers, so I was perfectly content. I’ve got to say, it was the most modest accommodations we have yet to come across, but it was fun. The power went off for most of the evening and into the night, so we all congregated in one room and played cards with a flashlight.
About an hour after we got there, Emmanuel, our guide, made this kissing noise and a bunch of monkeys came pouring out of the jungle. We bought bananas and fed them with our hands. They are Mona monkeys, so they were pretty small, and they would come down and grab the banana, peel it, and run back up into the trees. A few times, I got chewed up banana throw down onto my head.
After that, we had to eat Banku for lunch because it just so happened that it was the only thing in the whole village that was for sale for lunch. Uggh, I can’t say I enjoyed it.
When we went back to our bungalows, we attracted quite a lot of attention and ended up playing with a group of village kids for about five hours. They taught us all of their games, stole our cameras for quite some time, played jump rope with vines we found in the jungle and tied together, braided our hair, and completely wore us out. I also got to hold a 6 month old baby, and I was in heaven. She was super cute. After we were tired out, we bought ice cream for everyone. It was funny because the ice cream lady was way back in the village down a bunch of little streets and alleys, but when we asked the kids to show us the way, they didn’t have a single bit of trouble finding it.
Anyway, we woke up at 5:30 the next morning and went out again to feed the monkeys. Emmanuel told us that they stayed right outside our rooms all night. There are four groups of monkeys in the sanctuary and we fed two of them that morning. We also got to see the “kings” of the two groups. When we had eaten breakfast (bread and tea), we set out to find a way to get back to the main road and on to Hohoe. Well, we didn’t have to search long because as soon as we mentioned that we needed to leave, four motorbikes pulled up and told us to hop on. So we did. Everyone got on the back of a bike with a Ghanaian driver, except there were only four bikes and five of us, so Nicole, me, both of our backpacks and a Ghanaian guy all rode on one bike. Oh Ghana. The ride was about 20 minutes long and boy was it worth the 1 cedi they charged us. We rode through a bunch of small villages and attracted just a small bit of attention. Who ever would have thought I would be in Africa riding on the back of a motorbike through the jungle? Haha, not me.
After a few unsuccessful attempts to find food and something to do in Hohoe, we got on an air-conditioned (a rarity) tro-tro back to Accra. Well, I was sitting in the front seat looking right out the front window, and I still felt like I was gonna be sick the whole way back. I think it could have been because the guy drove like a complete maniac. We didn’t slow down for anything - not even the pot-holes big enough for a van to fall into. I mean, at one point we came across a herd of cows crossing the road, and we didn’t even tap the breaks. Instead, we passed the other car that had stopped for the cows, and drove right through. Cows were literally jumping out of the way and the shepherd was angrily waving his fist at us. Haha
We also saw a lone baboon walking down the side of the road on the drive back… random. Overall, this weekend was awesome. It was nice to get off the beaten path and connect with the locals a little bit. Everyone is so much more welcoming when 5 kids show up in the back of a truck than when 20 kids roll up in a spacious, air-conditioned bus…
More about life in general:
Every time I get home from a trip, I am realizing more and more that the hostel really does feel like home. I have become quite attached.
We haven’t had a steady supply of water for about a week now, it goes on and off every few hours, or every few days. The electricity has been going on and off too. I’ve heard rumors that our water pump is broken and I’m not going to get my hopes up that it will be fixed anytime soon.
I’ve recently discovered Indo-Mie, aka, Ghana’s version of Top Ramen. Yay!
I’ve also picked up on the sweet handshake/snap thingy that everyone greets each other with here. Haha, I feel like one of the cool kids now.
Everyone at the University dresses up for class and I always feel like a bit of a scrub. I don’t mean that they just put on something other than sweats, they actually wear slacks, shirts and ties and the girls usually always wear dresses. Now that takes some dedication… it’s so easy just to roll out of bed and go.
Last night I went to watch the famous musician Fela Kuti’s son Seun Kuti perform in Accra. It was kind of interesting but pretty cool all at the same time. By interesting, I mean Seun had on this ridiculous outfit that made him look like an Elvis wannabe. Dad, I think you would have really liked the music.
Another thing that I’m liking more and more about Ghana is that no one here is shy. I constantly hear students walking down the street and singing at the top of their lungs and anywhere and everywhere you can find people who just break out in crazy dances. I love it.
Meanwhile, I’m missing you all.
Much love,
Cari

---

Comments

[amanda]

Cari I really laughed out loud when i read the part about the lone baboon...seriously that made my night ahahaha. Anyhow your adventures sound amazing as always, but I was just wondering how you are doing with the Twi language? I am glad to hear it is feeling like home to you there but i still miss you a bunch. Goodbye until your next story!!! love ya!!