Getting Acquainted with Accra


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Africa » Ghana » Greater Accra » Legon
January 27th 2009
Published: January 27th 2009
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After two weeks here, I’m feeling pretty comfortable in my surroundings. It helps that unlike the other dorms, I have consistent access to running water (even if it’s always cold) and I share a room with only 1 person, not 3 or 4. My roommate has yet to move in, but I met her this weekend, and I think we’ll get along really well. Her name is Marianne and she’s from Tema, which is a smaller city outside of Accra. She goes home most weekends, and said sometime she’ll take me home. It’ll be interesting to see where she lives (although, I doubt it’s a typical house, she seems fairly wealthy).

I’ve noticed in Accra at least, there seems to be a lack of middle class. There are gorgeous estates that are naturally surrounded by solid concrete walls and barbed wire to keep thieves out. The high-end hotels are also like mini resorts, we’ve been swimming for the day at two of the pools close by. You could easily think that you were in Florida or the Caribbean until you step outside and see the dusty streets and crazy drivers. Then, there are villages of wooden shanties where people sell things in front and live/sleep in the back. Many of these shanties have electricity, I can see the wires connecting them to the telephone poles, but I don’t think they have water. It’s such a strange contrast to experience, especially because the classes aren’t separated into neighborhoods, but they exist right next to each other.

Almost everyone dresses nicely, including the people who live in the shanties. Usually people look “business casual” with long skirts or pants, collared shirts and ties. It is far too hot for me to even imagine wearing pants during the day (and even at night). One of the first days here I saw a man wearing a sweater vest while I was sweating in my shorts and t-shirt! I have asked some Ghanaians if they get hot or if they don’t feel it and they replied that they feel hot, but not like we do. I think they are just accustomed to being sweaty and it doesn’t bother them as much. Also, they get cold below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. My RA told me it affects people’s work ethic when it gets “so cold.” I wonder how much of a work ethic they would have during a New England winter.

Ghanaians have been stereotyped as “the friendliest people in West Africa.” For the most part, I have found this to be very true. People here will walk up to strangers and start a conversation and have no reservations about asking for a phone number or address. Usually it’s hard to determine if there people are “professional friends” that will later rob you or if they’re being sincere. Sometimes it’s hard not to be rude back to them when they insist on selling you something or planning a time to meet up with you again.

On the opposite side of the spectrum, I have found many people in customer service jobs to be rude. Every time I go into the store right down the street and don’t have exact change, the cashiers role their eyes at me. (Change is especially difficult to find everywhere here, even if it’s just a few cents.) Also, at the mall (which looks like it was plucked straight out of the US) people are not very willing to help you find the item you’re looking for. I have to wonder if they are impolite to everyone or only foreigners.

Well, that's all for now. I still have a lot to write about, but I'll save it for next time. I will try to post every week, but the internet is unreliable, so we'll see how that goes.

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28th January 2009

Glad you got there safe and sound
It is so cool to be reading your blog knowing that you are getting to see such interesting things. Stay safe and enjoy the heat. (Its been below freezing here for a while and we are getting a foot of snow today). Miss ya in the lab!
30th January 2009

Glad to know you are doing okay.
As requested I have emailed this link to the aunts, uncles and cousins. I hope that one or more of them get back to you. Looks like you are getting a new look at the world. New England is not the only place on earth (although it is the best). Have fun.
4th February 2009

this is so sweet. i am so stoked for you, seriously. i can't wait to stalk you weekly. also, can you get mail? if so.. you best believe you'll be receiving some sweet spanish post cards / lingerie in the mail. hit me with it over facebook. miss you.

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