The last week in Ghana

---

I feel like I've learnt a lot and had my eyes really opened this week. Maybe it's because I'm settling in and getting used to things here. Pretty ironic as I'm leaving in a few days. It's also been quite a hard week in many ways.

I've got a lot out of working with the HIV department. It's such a positive project and you really see the changes it can make. There is so much prejudice towards those living with HIV on the camp. As we did Community Outreach on Wednesday, we were talking to a group about stigmatisation. We ask 'What would you do if you found out your friend, family member or neighbour was HIV positive?' Many people say they would counsel them, support them and look after them. This is obviously the answer we hope for, we are really trying to drum in the message that people with HIV/AIDS should not be shunned, but should be supported. Unfortunately though there are still some who have twisted ideas. Rumours, misinformation and downright lies make their way around camp. A woman last week said she would not live alongside a person with HIV, in case they put their infected blood into her food. Her whole family had the misguided belief that people with HIV are wicked, and want to spread the disease.

The day after that particular outreach, we spent some time with two young men, both HIV positive. They are friendly, sweet, courageous and living with a disease that has destroyed their whole futures. One told us how he dreamed of building a big house for his wife and children. Now, he won't be able to have a wife or children. The other told us he has been given less than four years to live. Both in their mid twenties and paying for a mistake that will ultimately kill them. 'No one wants to talk to me' one said. 'They think they will catch HIV. I'm glad you're here, you are educated so you understand.' He also told us that his wish is to have his own room to sleep in, he is staying with Victoria, the department manager but he doesn't feel it's right to impose on her and her family. And people think this young man is wicked? We talked about Africa, about next year's African Cup football tournament, about English teams, David Beckham. We laughed, we had drinks together. They were really so easy to get along with, despite being treated so badly by others. We swapped email addresses with them and I'm planning to fundraise when I get back to the UK, to help pay their rent. A few days later Vocitora told us that when we left they were both crying because they missed us. I can't really describe how I feel at this point. Quite empty and frustrated. Life is cruel.

I have also felt afraid this week. There have been a number of attacks on white people in the area lately, and it seems to be becoming more commonplace. There is a lot of resentment towards whites, to some Ghanaians we have everything, and are the reason they have nothing. A few volunteers have had bags stolen, one was robbed at gunpoint a few weeks ago. Another group of volunteers living a few miles away had their house raided by armed robbers in the middle of the night. They were tied up, gagged and beaten. Everything was looted and the robbers got away. As we heard this news, I'm not going to pretend I was brave or macho or had a 'it won't happen here' attitude. I was really scared and have had many sleepless nights, listening out for noises. The guesthouses on the camp are actually well protected, it's unlikely that the same thing would happen here. I was still scared though and I know Debbie felt the same. I didn't write about this before as I didn't want to unduly worry my family. I would say that anyone reading this who is travelling to Ghana should take extra care. Don't flash expensive equipment, try not to carry too much, and don't travel alone at night.

Africa is such a beautiful continent. It is sad to see some of the things that go on here. So much corruption, so much poverty, so much violence. For the last 30 years Africa has been the only continent to go backwards in it's development. A group of us sat in Holiday Feeling and talked. What would the answer be for Africa? How will things ever change? Aid goes into the wrong pockets, power goes to the wrong heads, the poor get poorer every day. Is education the way forward for future generations? How can such massive problems ever be solved? A conversation I'm sure countless Buduburam volunteers have already had. As a volunteer you only make minute changes to maybe one or two people's lives. Anyone thinking they can save the world is naive. I'm not being defeatist or hopeless, I'm being realistic. All anyone can do is make those little changes and hope that life is a little easier now for the people they have helped. That's what I want to do, and hopefully through the press club, the library and HIV department I've achieved that. It's a funny feeling. You feel empowered to help, and yet hopeless to change the bigger picture.

---