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Published: September 16th 2008
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Kente weaving
This little boy is using that machine to produce the kente cloth This past weekend we left for the Region of the Ashanti's- Kumasi. It is about 4 hours north of legon(although due to traffic it took much longer). We left Friday morning and returned Sunday evening.
Once we arrived to Kumasi it was pretty late in Ghanaian time, around 5, so we only had time to go visit the palace there. From my understanding, Kumasi is the land that people who claim themselves to be Ashante's come from. These people are ruled by a king and queen. In this culture you trace your linage through the mother's side. At first it seems awesome, you know, more power to the women! We control families and heritage, and then they explained why. They do this because they are afraid the woman is, how should I put this, not telling the truth about the father so the man cannot be entirely sure if that child has his blood flowing through him/her but you cannot deny the fact that it is the mother's. So much for women's lib. So this tribe is ruled right now by the king and the queen, the queen is not his wife, but his biological mother. Sometimes kings and queens
were brothers and sisters, or like the present ones now. We toured the palace and learned about their history. Well, we toured what was formally the palace, the king does not live in the building we went through anymore, he lives beside it. He also enjoys golf, crazy. We were not allowed to take pictures inside. There were two living rooms inside, one for VIPs and one for normal people. There was a kitchen and an office and an upstairs. After the tour we got on the bus and headed to where we were staying that night, the college that is there in Kumasi, although I don't know what the name is, it's some technical institute, we stayed in the engineering department. There was hot water. AND TV. I watched an episode of Friends and Simpsons. I was living the high life.
The next day was pretty full. After breakfast we got on the bus and headed to the Kente weaving village. Kente cloth is something I'm sure you've heard of. It's woven cloth, and it is native to Ghana. This was my first experience, well good one, with haggling. Kente cloth is very expensive (in comparison to everything
stamping
This guy in our group, Easton, is stamping strips of his Kente cloth, there are lots of different symbols with different meanings else in the country). There are some people who were buying 6 yards for 300 cedis. I only got 2 2 yard pieces. One of the pieces was very intricate in design and really pretty. I'm proud of getting him to reduce the price by 20 cedis. The second piece was not as intricate so it wasn't as expensive but I still got him to knock off 12 cedis. This oburoni (white person, well anyone not from Africa) is learning well. We then went to this village where they do more weaving but they also stamp the traditional symbols on it. I bought three strips, one for me, philip, and gina, and got the stamped. I got to stamp one, and I messed it up, sorry Gina. That was very hectic there. Everyone was like 'sista, sista come over here I have nice ones' one Ghanaian tried to give me 'a gift', like I just came to Ghana yesterday. Puh-lease, I know there is nothing free here, and sure enough he wanted me to buy his cloth. I said no thank you. We went to a woodcarving village next. I haggled, got a few sculptures and a drum and some
making dye
These kids don't actually pound the tree bark usually, they were just showing off for us. They were cute and love it when we take their pictures so how could I resist? jewelry and went back on the bus. It's very tiring getting bombarded by everyone when you get off the bus. It's like a moth to a flame, they see us coming and attack! I literally had to yank my arm away from people because they would not go away. No, I do not want your Obama bracelet. Yes, I love Obama (Obama is like God over here, I can only imagine what the feeling is like in Kenya), but no I will not buy that. We went to the market after that. The market used to be the biggest one in Western Africa, I don't think it holds that title anymore, but it is up there. The market was huge. I went around with a friend and we were on a mission to find more fabric, we had heard it was the cheapest here. We couldn't find it, so instead we went into a zoo we saw. It was the saddest thing I have ever seen. The cages were so small, little simba looked about half starved and the baboons just looked mean. We didn't stay there long. We returned to our buses and went back to our hotel. I
Harrassment
This is a girl in my group, Latora. We were all on the bus waiting for the rest and hoping to get away from the pushy salespeople but they stood outside our bus... they suckered her into buying one of those Obama bracelets by using a baby, her weakness was exhausted and called it an early night.
The next morning we went back to the market. We found the fabric. I had spent most of my money already so I figured, why not spend all of it? That seems like a good idea. So I bought more fabric and was spent. I made a terrible mistake that day. I had come under the illusion that it was OK to wear my jean skirts here because on campus girls do it all the time. Well, I have learned that dress on campus as opposed to dress anywhere else in Ghana is very different. I will never wear a short skirt again. Women in the market place kept touching my legs and saying I was fresh. Thank you ma'am, no I will not buy from you, you just insulted me! Lesson learned. We got back on the bus (after weaving through dead fish, chickens, and whatever else was smelly but being sold) and returned back to the University.
I don't have another trip planned until the first weekend in October, well one with our group anyway. There is a monkey village apparently somewhere, so a couple of us might
Side of the Road Stand
There are tons of these around and I just started taking pictures while I was on the bus look into that. There is also a village that is all up in trees, I definitely want to try and find that as well. So I might be making some more tro-tro trips in the near future, and I can't tell you how much that excites me.
Here's a side, ironic note. I think I have stressed how this culture is very laid back and nothing happens on time, nothing. So I have begun taking the bus to classes in the mornings, I don't mind walking, but I do mind sweating like a pig once I arrive while all the other students are fine because they were smart and took the bus. You see, Africa decided to get hot these past few days, so I must alter my transportation methods or get used to the fact that I will be sweaty at all times, an attractive quality really. So this morning I have figured out that the bus comes at 9 so I can get to my 9:30 on time. I looked at the clock and it said it was 8:50 and thought I had time to brush my teeth because nothing happens on time, the bus is always late. That stupid bus was early this morning. NOTHING IS EARLY HERE! I missed the bus, and walked to class and was the sweaty oburoni in the corner. Thank you Africa. O well, good exercise, right?
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...bandana on the head...
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Everyday she's hustlin, every everyday she's hustlin
Sounds like your adventure was pretty hip. It's good to know you scored some nice fabric at a lower price. I can't wait to see the sculptures you bought. You should definitely check out the village in the trees. If you go to monkeyland just make sure you don't get bit. I can't wait to see what happens next. <3