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Published: March 21st 2024
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This African adventure is drawing to a close. After cycling over 4,000km since January I've arrived in Banjul. This is as far south as I'm heading. That's probably just as well, because the sun is now very strong around midday and the afternoons are very hot.
To reach Banjul, I had to cross the Gambia River on the ferry. I loved the thought of getting on a ferry from Barra to Banjul. Barra, the Scottish one, is one of my favourite places to visit. I definitely think a Barra to Barra ferry service would be a brilliant idea! Even better if it would stop in Derry on the way past.
I'd read online about how chaotic buying tickets for the ferry was, basically a scrum and how crowded it was on the ferry. Maybe I was lucky, but I had no problems. The well organised queue consisted of 3 people ahead of me, and in fairness, the ferry I was on was nowhere near as packed as when it arrived. I dont think it would meet European standards.
I've been in Banjul for a week now. My base is Sumanguru Guest House. Each morning after breakfast, I set
off to explore various locations and see what bird species I can find.
The people in Gambia are so friendly, genuinely friendly. There are of course a few who ask for money or presents. But the vast majority just want to say hello and speak a few words to a visitor. They are only too willing to help with directions when they see a cyclist pushing a bike along a sandy road, and many tell me where I can see birds.
My list now has over one hundred species. That will of course be subject to change as I correct possibe mis-identifications and work out what some of the, as yet, unidentified photos are.
So far I've explored the mangrove creeks, forest and agricultural land around Bufalato, Eden Garden and Makasutu forest. In the heat of the afternoons it was lovely to relax in the shade of the forest.
Eden Garden is located at a bend in a tributary of the Gambia River. It is a popular spot for the local kids to cool off in the river after school. The noise and excitment means there's not so many birds at this strectch of water, but
it was brilliant to see so many people having such a good time.
There were, however, loads of birds in the meadow just behind it and of course all the soaring raptors
I spent an entire day in the general area of Kotu Bridge. It is an amazing location. A seemingly small, insignificant bridge, teeming with birdlife. For anyone who wants or needs help identifying the dozens of species at that one location there are numerous guides offering their services. Some really don't want to take no for an answer. They are proper, experienced guides who know their birds, but I was enjoying the challenge of working them out for myself.
Kingfishers, waders, egrets, herons, swallows. They're all there.
Another day I cycled the 20km to Tanji Forest and then the village. The forest was tranquil and cool. The village is the opposite. Noisy, bustling, a working fishing village with all that that entails.
I worked my way down to the beach and watched the gulls and terns competing for the spillage from the trays of fish being carried through the surf from the boats moored just beyond it.
Men, women and chidren all
working hard. It's undoubtly, tough and dangerous work. All to maintain what looks like a fairly minimum standard of living.
Yesterday I spent a couple of hours in the National Botanic Garden. It's not quite Kew Gardens, but I was delighted to see a few new species for me and get good views of some I'd already seen.
I have taken a couple of rest days. On the first I saw a couple of lifers in the garden of Sumanguru when the manager brought me around to show me where they feed the birds.
Today, I started the preparations for heading home. I gave my bike a much needed clean and practiced how I might pack it for the flight.
Tomorrow is my last full day in Banjul. I'm going to try a quick tour of a couple of placs to see if I can find a few more species. Then on Saturday I start cycling north to Dakar Airport and my flight to Madrid early next week.
So like the swallows I'm on my way north again.
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