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Published: February 16th 2011
Mohmed greeted us this morning, obviously relieved that we were safe. He had worried all night after dropping us off in downtown Luxor, in what turned out to be a hornet's nest. Cairo's protests were apparently massive. The army was called in to protect the Egyptian Museum after looters had attacked. A curfew was in effect from 1600 until 8 am and would last at least three days. The result of all this? Mubarak has dismissed his Prime Minister and his domestic ministers. This seems to have satiated Mohmed, who sees this as real, historic change. I wonder if the masses will be similarly satisfied? Will this appease the man who stopped long enough to yell "Mubarak" while slashing across his throat with his finger? Of note, while writing this at 1600, cell phone service was off and the internet is blocked.
We saw Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple today. What can I say? Rameses temple seemed enormous. Karnak Temple is much larger....massive, impressive and overwhelming. It is, in fact, the largest ancient religious site in the world, consisting of multiple temples, pylons and buildings.
We arrived pretty early, so the crowds weren't bad. In ancient times, a causeway
connected Karnak temple with Luxor temple, about 2 miles away. Lined on each side of this temple were hundreds of ram-headed sphinxes. A restoration project is recreating this causeway, using recovered statues and reproductions. It is a very controversial project, as this causeway lies directly under modern Luxor. Egyptian eminent domain is occurring, private and public property is being seized and compensation does not appear to be satisfying the owners. Already a hospital, stadium and police station have been razed and the ram-headed sphinxes sit frozen on their pedestals, reclaiming their glory.
Passing through two pylons, we entered the Great Hypostyle Hall. It is constructed of 134 columns. The center is surrounded by two rows of six columns, 82 feet high. Flanking this are 7 rows of columns 42 feet high. The columns are carved deeply with hieroglyphs. The area is grand, the columns towering over us. Standing among these giants, I felt small, comparatively inconsequential; probably an intended effect. Although ruined and partially rebuilt, it's not hard to imaging how majestic this was. It is said that this hall was the inspiration for the size and shape of the Cathedral of Notre Dame. A sign in the hall
shows their floor plans superimposed on one another and they are almost identical.
Of the many obelisks that once existed at Karnak Temple most have been shipped to foreign countries as goodwill gifts or spoils of war and occupation. The most are in Rome (13). One stands in Central Park in New York. Two remain standing in Karnak Temple. One was erected by Tuthmosis I, standing 80 feet. The other was erected by Hatshepsut, the Queen, then Pharaoh. It's 97 feet, but only the top 1/3 is visible. Tuthmosis III built a wall around the obelisk in his inexhaustible quest to erase his mother's legacy.
Luxor Temple is smaller, but is the site of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Christian and Musiim marks. Notable is the 14th century Abu al-Haggag Mosque, built at street level over the buried and forgotten temple. From the temple floor, the mosque sits 30 or 40 feet up and is still in use. Also notable is the name of Ahkenaten, the heretic Pharaoh, scratched off the walls as directed by the ever vengeful Tuthmosis III. Further in the temple the walls are covered in crumbling gypsum plaster, remnants of early Christians who used it as
a church. An early Christian painting has been restored by an Italian team. At the farthest reach of the grounds is a large stone temple, created by Alexander the Great and bearing his likeness in traditional Egyptian art.
T and I walked to an open area of the temple grounds. Mohmed was telling us of more history. He found me gazing off and asked me if there was something I needed to do. His tone seemed a bit admonishing, catching me not paying attention. I felt like a student being scolded by a teacher. My excuse was pretty good, I thought: I just saw a tank go by.
After a nonstop 3 1/2 days, two cities, 5000 years of history, T and I were exhausted. We went back to the hotel to relax. Luxor's streets were calm and tourists were out, but there was an unmistakable tension in the air. The day's calm seemed only a pause until the next demonstration unfolded. Although isolated from cellphone service and internet connections, CNN still was broadcasting on our TV, giving us a window to what was happening in the country. Our itinerary was for Sharm el Sheikh tomorrow, through Cairo.
We packed, ate and were soon off to sleep.
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