Egypt by bus

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Sarfaga is a small port on the Red Sea. It is developing as a tourist / health resort as people enjoy the mineral rich waters and the assorted water sports that are starting to become available.



But together with approximately 1,100 other passengers we are booked on the Valley of the Kings, Luxor and Karnak trip. We need to depart by 07:00am so it is a very early start with the restaurants opening at 05:00.



We finally get to the Valley of the Kings and it is barely controlled chaos. They limit visitors to three tombs which they rotate so individual tombs don’t get too damaged. If you want to visit Tutankhamen’s tomb that is extra but we have been repeatedly told it is empty and not worth seeing. So we see those of Rameses III, IV and IX. The hieroglyphics are spectacular and still have much of their original colour despite being nearly 4,000 years old. But I really wouldn’t want to visit in the summer with temperatures in the mid 40’s! The crowds in the tombs also make viewing the history a little problematic. Although the guards in the tombs do point out some interesting features, including the destruction of some of the hieroglyphs by early Christians hiding from the Romans.



After lunch it is off to the Temple at Luxor. A massive structure but we are only able to jump off the bus for a few minutes to grab some snaps.



However, the relative disappointment of the Valley of the Kings and the Temple of Luxor is totally surpassed by the Karnak Temple complex. It is vast (68 acres), reaches up to 21m in places and is awe inspiring. Statues of pharaohs and entire walls covered in hieroglyphs, many still coloured. Clearly it has had much restoration but they are using the original stones. This one site makes the whole journey worthwhile (if exhausting) Ian says he hasn’t seen such massive remains anywhere else.



Overall impressions. Those Egyptians who are working for us (driver, guide, restaurant staff etc) are polite and helpful. Market hawkers are something else indeed. We are warned against making eye contact. As commented earlier the poverty is obvious and grinding.



Police check points are everywhere. In each case a dozen or so officers wrapped up against the biting cold stand in the watch towers or by the cars. Guns are clearly in evidence. What look like 12.7mm heavy Russian machine guns and Kalashnikov assault rifles are in most of the watch towers. Rather worryingly the guns are often not actually manned and the nearest police can be some considerable distance away.



Health and Safety is not a big issue. We see what looks like a 10 year old riding a motorbike with two passengers and not a helmet between them. Three men perched on the roof of a tractor as it travels along the road towing two trailers loaded to the sky with sugar cane. (Every time it slows down young kids pilfer a cane or two off the back, so high speeds are a good way of protecting the cargo, but not so good for the men on top of the cab.)



Most buildings are not completed. Seemingly you don’t pay property tax until the building is finished. So the locals ‘plan’ a four storey house but only finish three. The top floor consists of concrete pillars and protruding steel reinforcing bars, alternatively the top floor has no windows fitted and the walls are only half finished. Pretty much all buildings look like this and it makes for a very shambolic appearance.



After another 4 hour drive we finally arrive back at the ship. There are approaching 1200 people trying to get back on board. The Egyptians are supposed to be screening returning passengers with airport style security. Strange airport. I can’t go through the x-ray machine because of the implants. I go around the machine and they wave Ian around as well. When he tries to explain he can go through the device they insist he goes around the x ray machine as well, additionally they don’t even frisk him!



Once through ‘security’ we face the gangways to physically get on the ship. These are extremely steep, possibly 40 degrees. Lots of people have really problems negotiating them. Crew members are helping people on board, effectively taking them by the arms and pulling them upwards. A hard physical effort for everyone concerned. Once we get back on the ship we find Cunard are so concerned at the Egyptian security they have their own systems in place and everyone has to go through the whole process again. A little annoying but also quite reassuring.



All in all very interesting day on the whole but the endless hours on the bus does take the shine off things a little.

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