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Published: December 13th 2008
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Chobe National Park
Why did I take this photo??? Leaving Vic Falls was upsetting for us Zimbabweans, but, together with all aboard the bus, a sense of relief prevailed as we travelled into a normal, functioning country; with local people smiling, enjoying life!
We crossed into Botswana heading to Kasane, a small town on the banks of the Chobe River. After setting up camp at Tembe Lodge on the river bank we settled in the cool shady bar next to the small dirty swimming pool to avoid the midday heat, when out of the haze appeared two weary Australians; Trent & Matt were back on track after the unfortunate passport experience. Trent was all smiles as usual and looked on the positive side; he had gone through a unique Zimbabwean experience!
Later that afternoon we began the Chobe sleep out; headed out for an evening game drive before bedding down in the campsite set in the middle of the park. For the amount we paid the experience I felt was overpriced with only the odd lion cough and some creature, possibly a hyena, sniffing around our tent in the middle of the night giving a sense of isolation.
The next day we travelled back to the campsite
Chobe National Park
Another close encounter with an elephant in Kasane and were lucky enough to witness a pack of African Wilddogs hunting. For those of you ignorant of African wildlife this was a unique experience as these dogs have been hunted and poisoned to the point of extinction; seeing the dogs in full flight was phenomenal and an experience well worth the money paid for the sleep out.
That evening was spent on a cruise up the Chobe River. As the sun set elephants herds came down to drink at the waters edge; hippo’s angrily wobbling back to the river unnerved by the passing boat; buffaloes sniffing at our scent wearily before returning to a particularly tasty tuft of grass. The only down side was the park ranger who came a across arrogant and unfriendly, threatening to return to the pier if we were noisy and out of hand. I am not sure if he just didn’t like tourists or if he had a genuine concern for the animals and environment, you can make your own mind up.
The next morning we travelled South Westerly to the southern reaches of the Okavango Delta, settling in at Sitatunga Campsite outside the dusty mining town of Maun. The
Chobe National Park
A classic vulture silhouette day was spent in town buying last minute provisions (another pair of sunglasses for me) for the 3 day Makoro trip into the delta. Quoting the trip itinerary “The Delta is a huge expanse of water which has travelled from the Angolan highlands, spreading out to form the largest inland delta in the world”!!
The hour drive from Maun to the Makoro poling station was slow; the ancient Mercedes trucks we travelled in only broke down once and made for an interesting ride. Passing through the tribal lands we saw first hand the destruction that elephants can cause to the environment. I have heard that too many elephants can destroy a park; seeing the number of trees torn down was alarming, the aimless destruction another example of how the poisonous roots from Zimbabwe are affecting their neighbors’ as most of the elephants are from Hwange National Park. Like everything else in the country, the boreholes in the parks no longer work and the elephants have migrated to more prosperous land to survive.
Travelling by canoe is possibly the most peaceful method of travelling you could ever wish for! Mokoros are traditional dug out canoes used to maneuver through
Chobe National Park
Chobe sleep out - one of the only nights spent around a campfire and not the bar!! the waterways by “polers” who skillfully stand at the back of the canoe pushing the craft forward through the clear water.
“Shorty” our poler couldn’t have been much over 5feet tall, was well over 60 years old with a tight crop of grey wooly hair and a smile as wide as his canoe which incidentally looked the same age as its owner.
Not long into our journey we noticed that, not only were we perilously low in the water, but we were also gradually loosing distance behind the rest of the group of Makoros. Shorty, smile beaming, gradually edged to a small island where he beached the craft and began baling out water! Great there goes our camera and pictures!! It was also at this appropriate moment that he proudly informed us he was actively looking for a tree to carve a new Makoro from, but that good sausage tree’s were difficult to find!!!
Well, slightly wet, and a distance behind the rest we arrived at our camp in the middle of the delta. Finally some true camping, no running water and flush toilet, just a spade and the whole delta to bath in!
That evening we
Chobe National Park
The elephants did everythig together went on a short game walk before returning to the camp for a Makoro ride to our bathing pool; the poling this time done by ourselves! Changing direction was the most difficult part but somehow we managed to travel the short distance without a mishap.
It is unbelievable the extent to which some people will go to have an alcoholic drink. With extremely limited space, we only took very small bags with us in the Makoro. Some of the group must have only taken alcohol in their bags as they drank to oblivion each night we were out in the Delta. We survived on two bottles of red wine purchased off a Namibian in Lusaka at a good price. The others who took nothing were very grumpy and not much fun to be around!!
Day two involved another game-walk, loafing about and swimming; it really was too hot for much else. Sitting in the shade was bearable in small bursts only if we cooled off in the swimming hole amongst the reeds. A sunset Makoro ride that evening was a refreshing respite from the heat. Gliding through the reeds, the breeze cooled over the water, we relaxed enjoying
Okavango Delta
The only way to travel by water!! the colour and sounds of the delta before stopping by a large, deep water pool occupied by hippos. This begs the question: were we really that safe splashing around in the water by our campsite?
The next morning we made our way back to the poling station, stopping twice to bale out water. Other than the bird life we saw a rather large elephant but not much else. Back at Sitatunga Campsite another night was spent around the superb bar; the excuse this time, Matt and Trent’s leaving drinks. The two were flying to Swakopmund where they would hire a car for a few days before flying out, Trent to Australia and Matt to South America. What a night: other than all being very drunk I was thrown in the pool dragging the 3 culprits with me, for their sins an ipod and camera didn’t make it out alive; Sumo wrestling with local bar flies; Gorilla impressions; threats to kill the German who wasn’t happy with our singing at 3am; yup it was a great evening and perfect way to end our excursion in Botswana!!
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