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Published: October 3rd 2006
Hello all,
Sorry it's been a long time since the last update. I'm afraid this entry is very long now because there is a lot to say. You may want to print it out and read it in bed to help you fall asleep!!
Our return to the bikes, after the enforced rest at Curitiba, was short but sweet! We left our bags in the hotel and went on a day trip recommended to us by our cycling friends from Curitiba. The first part of the day was spent descending from the city which lies 1000m above sea level to a small colonial village called Morretes almost at sea level. The unsealed road we took called the 'Graciosa', meaning charming, attractive, is the first route the Portuguese used to travel from the coast to the plateau. It winds up through mountains green with tropical atlantic forest. The ride was a breeze once we got out of the city and onto this road, downhill all the way, although at times it was a little painful for our hands constantly squeezing the brakes to go slowly enough to admire the incredible scenery. On arrival in Morretes, mid afternoon, we had
just enough time to grab some snacks before catching the train back up to Curitiba. This train ride is apparently one of the most spectacular in the world. The 3 hour long rollar coaster ride saw us climbing back up to the plateau on rails dug into the mountain side. Elated, with our heads out of the window taking in the panoramic view we crossed 67 viaducts, went through about 20 tunnels and passed numerous waterfalls to arrive back in Curitiba at sunset. The approach to the city through the grey, depressing favelas being in sharp contrast to the beautiful scenery of the rest of the day.
As the cycle ride out of the city to the Graciosa road was a little hilly I was able to test my problematic knee which had already had a good 10 days rest. Unfortunately, although it was much better it didn't seem completely recovered, especially the tendon on the inner back side which reinflamed a little during the ride. Thinking it must be a type of tendonitis we decided the only reasonable thing to do was to prolong the rest from the bikes until the inflammation calmed. So leaving our
bikes in a friendly hotel in a town near to Curitiba, we set off with just two small bags containing essentials on the bus to Florianopolis, on the coast of Santa Catarina, southern Brazil.
Florianopolis, founded by immigrants from the Acores Islands in the eighteenth century, with around 500 000 inhabitants today, was recently voted the eighth most attractive city to live in in the world. The city has an excellent location, divided between the mainland and Santa Catarina island, the two sides linked by bridge. The mainland side is industrial and bleak but the island side is beautiful. There are fantastic beaches all around the island and a huge lagoon in the middle- a paradise for watersports. The weather is good all year round and the inhabitants have the best spending power in Brazil, as illustrated by the number of nice houses, fashionable shops and cafes and people in the latest surf gear.
On arrival in the city centre we took a local bus across the island to Barra do Lagoa, a quiet fishing village with a huge beach. There we found an appartment to rent for a few days complete with terrasse
overlooking the village and the beach. We spent a few days there visiting the other beaches on the island and eating fresh fish brought in by the numerous colourful fishing boats early every morning. Edouard also had the opportunity to fulfill an ambition and learn to Kite-surf. Fortunately one of the two schools had a french speaking teacher from Switzerland. David has been living with his girlfriend and child in Barra de Logoa for several years and has been in the 'wind industry' for longer. He once won the Brazilian kite surfing championships, despite being a lot older than the rest of the competitors, because he was using a new kite he'd designed himself. Edouard had several lessons on the lagoon under his tuition and loved it from the start. When he wasn't in a lesson he was on internet checking out good kite-surfing locations, different kites to buy in the future and the all important wind conditions for the following day.
After the first kite-surfing lessons there were a few days when the wind wasn't strong enough so we left Florianopolis to make a trip about 70km south to Garopaba. This small town in one of
a series of pittoresque bays is known for it's surf and for its whales. In fact, at this time of the year, Southern Right whales come right into the calm bays to feed and teach their young before continuing to the colder waters of Antartica. The whales, which can grow up to 18m in size used to be prey to Portuguese whalers along this coast but fortunately are now protected. The first day we arrived we walked a few kilometres to a unexploited bay and were amazed to see 3 huge whales each with their young floating around between 50 and 100m from the shore. Often they would lift a huge flipper out of the water to bring it splashing back down, sometimes their immense tail would appear, and occasionally when they were in deaper water they would leap out to fall back down on their back creating a huge splash. In the shallows we could often see the whole length of their body, the size of a bus rise partially above the water. It was breathtaking. We spent almost a week in this natural paradise, wandering or taking the bus from bay to bay, often returing to the bay
we went to on our first day, Praia Silvera to watch the whales. Sometimes these great monsters, moving slowly up and down parallel to the beach, would come within 20 or 30 metres of the surfers. The latter mostly kept their distance though as, although these whales are very docile creatures it would only take a brush with a flipper or tail to cause some serious damage.
A little reluctantly we said goodbye to the whales and returned to Florianopolis so that Edouard could finish his series of kite-surfing lessons. He did really well and was zooming around the lagoon by the end (OK, I'm exaggerating a little!). He'd have happily spent another month there kiting away but at the same time, we both wanted to move on to see new things. My knee was feeling much better at this point as I'd rested it a lot, but as we set off again the pains came back to my great dispair! ARGGGH!! So, figuring it was time to go to the docs and fancying a change of scenery we put the bikes on the bus again direction Foz do Iguacu.
Foz do
Iguacu in south-west Brazil on the border with Paraguay and Argentina is famous for its national park in the heart of which lies one of the most impressive waterfalls in the world - Iguacu Falls. Iguacu meaning 'great waters' in Guarani indian is an appropriate name for the 275 cascades that stretch over a distance of 2700m with a maximium height of 72m. (Niagara is only 47m high over a distance of 1300m in comparison). You can visit the falls from the Brazilian side or from Argentina, its good to do both because each side provides a different view. We decided to visit the Brazilian side first on a beautiful sunny day. As we made our way through the park surrounded by lush jungle full of butterflies, exotic birds and other animals we could already hear the roaring of the water. Our first view of the falls were of a huge horseshoe of different sized falls cascading down into the river below. Then as we walked along the one mile track along the edge of the river, lots of other falls came into view each seeming more amd more impressive until finally we arrived at 'Devils Throat' a gorge onto
which the heighest falls come crashing down. A walkway took us out into the middle of the river from where we were surrounded by the biggest waterfalls that we'd ever seen. Butterflies darted in and out of the mist created by the water and rainbows decorated the already incredible scene, and there, Edouard asked me to marry him!
Wow! Of course I said Oui and so very happy we continued to admire at the falls in a bit of a daze until it was time to go back. When we arrived at the bus stop I was about to sit and wait for the bus when Edouard led me on a little further up the road. In fact we weren't going back on the bus but to a very posh resort just outside the park. He's secretley cycled off a couple of days before and visited a lot of hotels before reserving a suite in the San Martin resort! The place was fantastic, especially because the grounds were huge with a swimming pool set amongst all different kinds of trees alive with toucans and parrots. We stayed there, enjoying the luxury life until early afternoon the
next day. Then on leaving the hotel, suprise number three, he'd organised a helicopter ride over the falls. From the sky you could really appreciate the huge scale of the falls and how the wide River Iguacu winds through the Brazillian jungle, goes charging down the falls and then comes out as the much narrower river Parana. A real wonder of nature. After recovering from the helicopter ride we finished the day with a visit to the bird park just next to the falls where walking through huge avaries we came into very close contact with all sorts of exotic birds. Not something for the bird phobic!
A week later and we are still in the town Foz do Iguacu because I'm now doing lots of physiotherapy on my knee. We went to a specialist, fearing the worst, but thankfully it appears the problem is curable. Apparently I have a common cyclists problem (I'm obviously a real cyclist with the problems and everything!). My hamstring muscles have developed but have shortened putting pressure on my patella and creating problems with inflamation in the tendons and the ligaments around the knee. The solution is bascially lots and
lots of stretching and some massage and heat treatment. I've been going to the physio twice and day for about an hour and a half each time and doing lots of stretching in between. It already feels better and with a bit of luck we'll be able to get back to the bikes soon. Fortunately the north of Argentina is relatively flat so we'll have some time to get fit again before hitting the Andes!
Because of my knee we've spent a lot longer in Brazil than planned but we don't mind that much because a)travelling never goes to plan and we have to accept that there will always be set backs and b) the Brazilians are incredibly generous, friendly people so even though we are not seeing many attractions at the moment just spending time with the people here is fulfilling and worhwhile!
However, we are really looking forward to getting back on the road and visiting Argentina. So, with that goal in mind I'm going to leave you now and get back to work with some more serious stretching. I'll be unbeatable at the cardboard box game by the time I get back!
love to all and keep in touch!
Rebecca and Edouard
ps - There are more photos with Edouard's entry
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Laura
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Quite literally whisked off your feet!
CONGRATULATIONS! I'm so excited and boy did you set the scene well, Edouard you couldn't have done it any better, the scenery, the rainbows, the butterflies ... the orchestra rising out of the water falls as you proposed...Sorry I'm getting carried away- You've raised the stakes for all the boyfriends now! I couldn't be happier for you both -you deserve all the happiness in the World! All our Love and Hugs! L x