Advertisement
Published: July 22nd 2014
Edit Blog Post
DUSHANBE TUESDAY 22.7.14
I must have been tired when posting yesterday, the relevant date was 21.7.14.
Today I flew to Dushanbe. Was told I would be collected at 11 am, but driver arrived 8.50 am saying we must be at airport by 9 am to catch flight., so HURRY. A Bad Start. So quickly changed clothes, finished packing and arrived airport 9.05. As it turned out no aircraft there and in fact finally departed at 10.50. No explanation for wrong instructions, USD 10 + USD 160 for ticket please. Was this to be today's story?
Got up at 5.30 to pack truck with bike and tent bag. Chatted to arriving riders ready for meeting and departure. Beautiful mild morning. Most wanted another rest day as Khorog had been a good camping spot. Today's ride up and down on mostly sand, 130 km., a hard day, riding along the river bordering Afghanistan. At the meeting I told the riders, having yesterday discussing it with the TL, MEDIC AND MEM, that I had decided to withdraw from the tour, and that after flying to Dushanbe, a few days later I would fly on to
Istanbul. I donated the bike and tent gear, leaving it to TDA's discretion to find an appropriate recipient.
I was hoping to ride with group to Samarkand from Dushanbe and then on to Bukhara, but as visa dates are preset and difficult to change, I couldn't make it work, as I needed to get from Bukhara to Tashkent airport, about 6 hrs by train away, within a shorter time span. So the only alternate option was to fly Dushanbe to Tashkent, seek a new visa at airport, only other place to embassy. Very frustrating as Uzbek visa was very difficult to secure. Pre- Arriving in Dushanbe i investigated this option, but flying costs etc were prohibitive, so Uzbekistan must wait for my money a little longer.
I have decided to finish my tour due to concern of further serious gastro issues. They are mounting in the tour daily, both riders and crew. In the upcoming heat, I suspect more rather than less issues are likely. As in some future weeks, accommodation will be the tent all week, hence isolated, I was concerned that if a gastro attack struck and without a hospital support, it
might spark something more serious in me. I am not prepared to risk that happening. There are no answers to the question of why the gastro issues are so bad and regular. More riders were seeking to ride the bus today. I suspect inadequate hygiene, poor sleep, poor diet are all major contributors. Another rider also advised his intention to quit today.
I am a little disappointed by my decision, as I think there are some interesting places ahead, but the bodies will be stressed, 45+ C in Turkmenistan for 10+ days! similar in Iran, and about 75% camping, gruelling with early starts to beat the worst of the heat, but then sitting largely unshaded, and without cold fluids at camp in the afternoon, before endless twilight in the tent. So I think my decision is appropriate. None of this of course is explained in the tour promo info. Poor I think. Of course when booking the tour, I didn't comprehend the sleep deprivation consequence of Northern summers in a light weight tent, rising in semi darkness to pack up camp, trying to beat strong afternoon headwinds. The prevailing wind blows from west to east, right into
the riders faces. Previously the tour started in the west and rode east, to avoid the wind, but many riders then finished at Kashgar, hence TDA's decision to reverse it. $$ driven it seems, and not disclosed- wind or direction change. These issues are less than the gastro, but only marginally. I must be happy riding 5350 Kms in 43 days. Many more than I have ever ridden in one spell. I am pleased with my efforts. It is not the riding nor distances that have defeated me, but issues off the bike. Clearly I am better suited for 2-4 week cycle travels- a very expensive lesson unfortunately, but which could have been more expensive had my general Heath been permanently impacted.
The flight was an event. It wasn't by plane flying down the valley separating Afghastan and Tajikistan, but by a former USSR military troop carrier helicopter converted by Tajik Air. I had seen these in movies, and they didn't fill me with confidence. 22 people on board, backs to the windows, luggage under bench rows and feet, we departed. In reality the flight was smooth, photos periodically over my head show the scenery as great,
but largely unseen by passengers. Arrived in Dushanbe 90 minutes later. D is a big city by Tajik terms and it's capital. It also seems from walking around that it is where the money is spent and stays. Investment banks abound, smells of drug money. Many BIG Mercedes. Also VERY HOT, temps reported at 35C, shocking after the cold of the Pamir mountain altitudes. I pity the riders on their decent into the city and thereafter the rolling plains.
I will explore tomorrow early before the rising heat, now to find a cold beer, harder than you might think, in a Muslim country in Ramadan.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.373s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 10; qc: 52; dbt: 0.0577s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Peter Carson
non-member comment
What a trip
Roger, Just read your last blog - I think you have made the right decision - your health must come first. I think you did brilliantly well and congratulations on what you have achieved. I am sure after all this the spice roads type cycles will seem a little tame! Have a safe trip home. Peter