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Published: August 6th 2006
I have officially completed my first week here in Japan and have gone from wild, techno-crazy Tokyo to the calm countryside of Kagoshima. The difference is stark. There are no flashing lights down here, no smog hovering over the city, no sky-scrapers. There are lots of mountains, trees, farmland, ocean and tradition.
My first four days here have taken me through a range of emotions, many of which I hadn't expected to feel this early in the game. At first I was ecstatic that my area is so rural, abounding with nature and hiking potential. The people are wonderful. Even if I can't understand most of what is being said at any given time, a smile goes a long way. The food is pretty good too and the foreigners that have already been here for a year have been more supportive than I could have imagined.
On the surface things have been great and I know that I will come to adore this place, but at the same time I have already had some moments of having to revise my expectations. My house, which is great because it is my own, was formerly occupied by a single 42-year old teacher from Shibushi High School. As a result my bathroom smelled so strongly of urine, I wondered if someone had peed on the floor and forgotten to clean it up; my bathtub was stained and my bathroom sink had pieces of plastic caught in the drain; and everything seemed to be covered with cobwebs or dust. The thought of cleaning it all made me gag.
Some of the shock also included becoming acquainted with the various insects and arachnids that live on or in my house. As long as they stay outside they are welcome to be my house guests, but I haven't yet reconciled myself to coexisting with the bugs that find their way inside. My first encounter with such an adventurer occurred on Thursday night after I had counted my blessings for not having seen any large creepy-crawleys in my house to date. I walked into my bathroom, scanning the walls and the ground for anything that I may not want to have crawl on me, to discover a large brown spider (about 5cm in diameter) hanging off the wall above my head. Most of the people down here prefer to scare the spiders away rather than kill them, but I couldn't handle not knowing where it had gone. I stood, staring at it for about 5 minutes, cringing at the thought of the aftermath (apparently the big spiders have green blood) and the clean-up, before deciding that the only action to take was to kill it with my shoe and deal with the consequences later - at least I could have the pride of making my first kill. I slowly reached down to pick up my shoe, wound up and, with a big screech, whacked the spider with as much force as my shakey arm could muster. To my surprise, there was no green blood as the spider disintegrated into a pile of dust and spider legs...it had been dead since long before my arrival, something I probably should have predicted by the strange angle it had been hanging at. I couldn't help but laugh at the emotional ordeal I had created for myself.
I spent my first 3 days here avoiding the house entirely, returning only to sleep or get my bathing suit for a trip to the beach (a popular after-work activity in this hot weather). Andrew, my Aussie neighbour and co-worker, was very gracious in allowing me to tag along with him and his friends until Friday, but everybody had plans out of town for the weekend so I was left to fend for myself. This is where I have felt the bulk of my disappointment. I have felt very frustrated at not being able to speak any Japanese or use most of my appliances (because I can only read the phonetic Japanese characters). I have a bank account, but no cell phone, home phone or internet (I am typing from Andrew's house at the moment, as he is away in Kagoshima City for the day and gave me his house key). As I read my e-mails for the first time since I arrived in Shibushi, I realised that this is probably the biggest of my upsets. I miss my friends and family in Canada and it means the world to me that you have been reading my entries and have sent me messages.
Once I get internet access, I should be in a much better space. I already feel a lot more settled after having slept (about 14 hours yesterday and another 9 last night), unpacked my bags and having cleaned and put away my dishes and cutlery (kindly donated by some of the JETs that were leaving). I did a small tour of the town on foot yesterday, which also helped me situate myself in relation to everything else. I am lucky to have a couple of supermarkets, convenience stores (combinis) and discount stores (100 yen shops, etc.) within walking distance. I also managed to shop for and cook my own dinner. The guys here (all the other JETs in my town are guys) like to eat out a lot, but for a woman that is one surefire way of gaining weight (something to be avoided when you live so close to the beach)! Yesterday's dinner was nothing to brag about, consisting of raw broccoli, tomato and a pan fried potato patty (pre-fab, but seemingly healthier than restaurant fair), half a box of "Pocky" (chocolate covered cookie-sticks) for dessert and a pack of peanuts for protein, but it felt fairly well-balanced. Once I learn to identify the assortment of foods at the supermarket, I should be able to get more creative.
On this note, I should probably wrap up the entry. I have been a complete recluse today (it's a scary world out there with all the heat and bugs and symbols that mean nothing to me) but I should continue on my quest to stock my house with the basics (like hangers for my clothes, salt, soya sauce and a can opener so I can enjoy the can of peaches I bought yesterday). I hope to write again the next time I am near an internet connection and will try to have some photos to share by then, too. I have forgotten to take my camera anywhere with me to date, but will make a point of taking it everywhere next week.
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Shona
non-member comment
Oh Emilie, Emilie, Emilie....as I read your blog I felt for you so much. Your move to Japan makes my move to Canada look really small fry! Yet I can relate on so many levels to what you are saying, I know it's not easy. I know you will get through this initial stage, and whatever lies beyond that for you will be amazing. It's funny how you often think that an outgoing nature and a love of fun can get you anything! Not always true...I know it! But you are a strong girl and the things that you will learn on this journey, about yourself and others, and the world in general will be invaluable and will remain with you for the rest of your life. Whatever this experience turns out to be, and there will always be ups and downs, it will be something you back on with immense pride. So please keep your chin up!! And try to remember that everything you're doing is helping you grow. Hopefully next time I can say something a bit more fun! :) Shona xx