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Published: November 11th 2012
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Russia really is a land of contrasts. A few weeks ago we were inside temples in the Buddhist Republic of Kalmykia, a few days ago we couldn't move for onion domed churches in Suzdal and now here we are in the Republic of Tatarstan, home to 5 million Tatars, where mosques are more common than churches and signs are in Tatar and Russian.
The capital, Kazan, is a great place to wander round – it doesn't feel Russian, it has a very free and easy feel, more relaxed than other cities. There are some amazing buildings around, very flamboyant and colourful not at all grey and concrete like my image of Russia. And so much history - established around 700AD by Bulgar Tatars (of Turkic & Slavic origin), it was conquered by the Mongol Golden Horde, then became the independent Khanate of Kazan and in, 1552, was captured by Ivan the Terrible and made part of Russia. This opened the gateway for Russia's expansion into the Urals and signalled the the end of Turkic rule and the rise of Russian rule in Eurasia.
There's still a sense of the Turkic/Asia around – like the Kremlin guides who approach us
some of Kazan's old mosques
Nurullah mosque (1849) & Soltanov (1867) mosque with friendly sales patter encouraging us to take a tour. European Russians would never do this, they are far too reserved and unwilling to step out from the crowd. We do take a tour and its really worth it, our young Muslim guide is so gentle and so proud of her Tatar heritage and how the local Muslims and Christian population live happily side by side (very sensibly the local government started the building & renovation of the mosque and cathedral on the same day and both were re-opened within a few days of each other in 2005).
The imposing Kremlin dominates the town, built by Ivan the Terrible on the site of the destroyed Tatar fortress. He destroyed the mosque, with its central tower & 8 minarets, and replaced it with a cathedral. Legend says he took local architects back to Moscow where they designed St Basil's Cathedral which was built to honour the capture of Kazan. Hence St Basil's design of a central tower and 8 domes, a unique design not seen in any other Russian church. Some scholars even say that this is the origin of onion domes on Russian churches, before St Basil's they were
Musa Dzhalil Monument
honours the Tatar poet who was executed in Berlin's Moabit Prison in 1944 helmeted domes – like Vladmir's Demetrius Cathedral in the last blog. Yes, some very old churches have onion domes but this is when they have been replaced over the centuries.
The Kremlin is crammed full of interesting buildings & museums. The President still lives here in a grand restored palace. All the buildings have been restored to perfection, as Russia always does, but that does give the place a slightly sterile museum like feel despite all the people wandering round. The building that stands out is the new Kul Sharif Mosque, named after the 16
th century imam who died defending Kazan from Ivan the Terrible. Its enormous, very modern and glitzy: silk painted panels on the ceiling, chandeliers, tulip images/shapes everywhere (a nod to the Turkic roots). There's even a purpose built viewing platform up on the 3
rd floor allowing us to see into the prayer hall where newly weds are having their pictures taken in front of the small piece of black cloth that once covered the Kaaba in Mecca (its replaced annually after the Hajj, cut up and pieces distributed to worthy people/causes).
There's one random spot within the Kremlin where all the Tatar grandmothers went
main gate to Kazan Kremlin
topped by the 45m Spasskaya Clock Tower to prey. Nobody could understand why that spot, it was just tradition. Then, when the recent renovations were undertaken they unearthed the graves of several Tatar Khans in that very spot!!.
All fascinating stuff, we whiled away an entire morning wandering round the Kremlin and investigating the museums. Then spent another couple of hours wandering the streets admiring the architecture. Then we finish the day off in a bar full of motorbikes!! Tomorrow we head back into Russian Russia and down to the border with Kazakhstan.
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Carol
non-member comment
fascinating
Iit really is fascinating, such beautiful buildings and not at all what I'd expected of Russia. I thought you meant to say bar of motorbikerS!!! Love the looks of the mb and sidecar. Carol x