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Published: October 31st 2012
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On my final day in Mexico City I decided to skip the pyramids of Teotihuacán, the many art museums, the home of Diego Rivera, and the famous Aztec canals of Xochimilco in order to see the other side of the city. The side where people worship Santa Muerte (Saint of Death), shop at the largest black-market in Mexico, perform Santeria rituals in what may be the world's largest witchcraft market, and celebrate Saint Jude by carrying huge statues of him to the church of San Hipolito. Many of these places are difficult or just too dangerous to travel to without a guide so I found a man named Enrique to take me.
The day began with a visit to Tepito, one of the most dangerous slums in Mexico City. Tepito has always been a lower class area since Pre-Hispanic times and it is known as El Barrio Bravo or The Fierce Neighborhood. The nickname was given because of its many robberies, especially at the Tepito Market. Tepito is also famous for being the home of many boxers, some were even world champions.
The Tepito Market is the largest black-market in Mexico. It is estimated that
7 out of 10 pirated or counterfeit goods in Mexico pass through this market. Many other items are stolen and then brought to the market to sell at cheap prices. Most items sold at the market are goods such as clothes, shoes, TVs, CDs, food, and magazines. However, if you look hard enough you can find guns (illegal in Mexico), drugs, and rumor has it that stolen U.S. passports can even be bought. Pornography is very popular here as well and some sick vendors sold videos of tourist in Cancun hotels making love. Enrique told me that gangs hide cameras in nice hotels and then sell the videos here. The police rarely crackdown and once you venture deeper into the market there are "spotters" who follow the movements of law enforcement and unknown visitors.
At Tepito Market the best buy I found was CDs which cost about $0.20 per CD. The selection was good too with Elton John Greatest Hits, The Ramones, ACDC, Queen, and Pink Floyd. If you’re into Backstreet Boys they have them too and of course lots of Spanish bands. Levi jeans were sold for about $13 USD, a pair of top Nike shoes
cost less than $20 USD. I bought some shaving razors for cheap and Enrique told me they robbed the truck going to the store that would of sold them for much more. Thank you thieves!
After the market it was time to find the altar of Santa Muerte or La Nina to the people of Tepito. The altar is on a secluded back street deep in Tepito. Santa Muerte is the patron saint of Tepito and in the past decade she has gained a large cult-like following amongst criminals, drug-addicts, and drug-traffickers. Even in the U.S. she is tattooed on many of the criminals in jails. Santa Muerte has a skull for her face and her body is covered by a long robe (usually white, green or yellow)). In one hand she carries a crystal ball (some say a globe) and in the other a scythe. At her feet are the offerings to her which include alcohol, marijuana joints, cigarettes, candy, fruits, and candles. Santa Muerte will protect you from death and if you are a devout follower she will help get rid of people who have harmed you. I must admit this place is creepy and
her followers are so devout. They will kiss the glass she is behind and even cry while leaving their offerings.
As far as safety is concerned in Tepito, I found that the people generally leave you alone unless you take out a camera, then they get real nervous and demand to know who you are. Then again I was with a guide so I received less attention. I must say that the guide would use Spanish only when talking to me in the market. If you visit and choose to go further into Tepito to the Santa Muerte Altar then its best to go with a guide or else risk a high probability of something bad happening. It is also recommended that you buy a candle and leave a donation especially if you bust out a camera in front of all the worshippers.
The Sonora Market was our next stop. This market is not located in the Tepito barrio but a few miles away near La Merced. Sonora Market is primarily known for its section containing items of witchcraft, primarily Santeria. It is debatable but many believe it to be the largest witchcraft market
in the world. Sonora Market is best visited with a guide because of its size (it's possible to get lost) and because one can learn so much more. The area it's in is not so dangerous but it is very crowded so it's important to watch wallets.
In my opinion the most memorable part of the market is the smell of strong incense and burning rosemary. Items such as Santa Muerte figures, Santeria beads, potions, black stones, and dead hummingbirds make for unique photo opts, especially against the dark lighting. I chose to buy some potion thing that helps you make money. It is supposed to be burned between 7pm and 8pm and then the next morning the little bag it comes in is put into your wallet. I also bought a few Santeria items. The vendors were mostly friendly but they all wanted to know what problem you needed solved. They are not just trying to sell stuff to tourists. The stalls also had back rooms where rituals take place but this is only for the most devout followers.
After the Sonora Market I said "adios" to my guide Enrique and went to
the San Hipolito Cathedral. San Hipolito is a church dedicated to Saint Jude or San Judas. San Judas is the patron saint of desperate causes and he is widely worshipped by the poorer people of Mexico. Outside of the church are thousands of pilgrims carrying St. Jude statues. Some of the St. Jude statues are life-sized and they are adorned with necklaces and rosaries. When the larger statues arrive people clear the path into the church while chanting prayers and throwing flowers. At times the smell of pot smoke fills the air coupled with heavy incense smells. It truly is a memorable experience.
Well that wraps up my time in Mexico City. Overall I found the city to be a great place but when I left I still could not figure out a theme to the city. It may be the most liberally progressive and traditionally conservative city I have ever been to. Try to understand that if you can.
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Michelle Rua
non-member comment
Nicely done
Nice blog, I enjoyed hearing about stuff off the beaten path like this, and you did a nice job grabbing pictures. Songs like a really cool experience - I hope the money potion works for you!! Safe travels.