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Published: August 15th 2012
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Tiwi Islands
Tom had to have his own plane - he just could not fit in our one...hehe ! Tiwi Islands
26
th July 2012
‘A visit to the Top End would not be complete without a trip to the Tiwi Islands’ said Trish one night over dinner with Tom and Barb and guess what within 24 hours we were all 4 booked on a flight over to Bathurst Island. It is only a short flight from Darwin to Bathurst Island, (In fact we taxied longer taking off from Darwin airport than we were in the air!). We were keen to learn and experience life in a Tiwi community and learn about the rich and fascinating history and culture of the Tiwi people so with a fair bit of excitement we headed off early from Tumbling Waters to the airport.
Indigenous Australians have occupied the Tiwi Islands for centuries, with creation stories suggesting they were present at least 7000 years ago. The Tiwi’s are believed to have had contact with Macassan traders long before any European contact. The first historical record of contact between Indigenous islanders and western explorers was with the Dutch 'under the command of Commander Maarten van Delft who took three ships into Shark Bay on Melville Island in 1705'. The first European
settlement on the Islands was at Fort Dundas, near present-day Pirlangimpi on Melville Island. Established in September 1824, this was the first British settlement in northern Australia, but owing in part to the hostility of the Indigenous population it lasted only five years, being abandoned in 1829
A Catholic mission was established by Francis Xavier Gsell in 1911, and the islands were proclaimed an Aboriginal Reserve in 1912. The catholic mission thrived until 1972, but with self-determination declared in 1972, the mission activities effectively ceased. However, a continuing catholic presence of Brothers, Sisters and Priests was requested by the Tiwi people of Nguiu to assist with education and health services. Father Gsell was mentioned everywhere we went and built the timber church that we visited, but he was most famous for his radio broadcast from the radio shack next to the church that advised the mainland of a convey of Japanese aircraft on its way to attack Darwin. Incredibly this warning was ignored! This was the very same timber Church that was used in the film ‘Australia’, with Nicole Kidman & Hugh Jackman!
Ngulu is the main community on Bathurst Island, the place we visited. You can only
Pukamani poles
..or Burial Poles in the Ngulu Museum visit the Tiwi Islands as part of an organised group these days and only with an official Indigenous guide. Our guide for the day was Trevor and he gave us an amazing insight into their culture and traditions as we travelled around visiting various sights. Unfortunately there was a funeral on the day we went, so our opportunities to do some of the things we wanted to were restricted in order to respect the Islanders customs. A highlight of the day was spending some time with a couple of Tiwi Ladies Dominica & Marilyn, over a mug of billy tea and some freshly made damper. Dom Dom (Dominca) told us she was the ‘auntie’ of Allen Christensen from the Geelong Football Club, but she was a Hawthorn supporter! We were able to participate in a traditional smoking ceremony where green leaves from the ironwood tree are used to cleanse bad spirits away and also able to witness a couple of ‘Totem dances’, it was all very special. The island museum was a treasure trove of old stories and photos of the early Mission Precinct. The attack on Darwin and the Islands in WWII also featured prominently. The display of traditional
Craft lessons
..painting mussel shells with the ladies art and artefacts was amazing and the depictions of Tiwi ‘Dreamtime’ stories was extremely interesting being different in many ways to the mainland communities.
After a walk in the bush with Trevor where he spoke of the ‘countries’ role in their culture and traditions we had a great cold buffet lunch before heading off to a swimming hole for a cool down. This was a great day where we were both amazed and intrigued by what Trevor told us of his people’s culture and tradition, it was unfortunate we could not visit the Tiwi burial site to learn about the complex rituals associated with, and see, the Pukamani poles (Burial Poles). Bathurst Island revelled scenes to us that were somewhat to be expected and others that were totally unexpected and their culture was intricate, complicated and intriguing and I must say explained a few things that we have seen in every-day life of some Indigenous community members around the ‘Top End’. Great fun and a brilliant trip to do even if you are only only ‘half interested’ in the culture and traditions of the Tiwi people.
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Matty
non-member comment
Experience of a lifetime
What an excellent side trip and such a great experience for you. And I think you are right, that little radio shack deserves a better sign and recognition! Even though you weren't able to take many photos, the ones you did take are fantastic.