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Published: June 24th 2012
Cape Leveque
The road up the centre of the peninsular is sandy and corrugated for nearly 100klmCape Leveque or The Dampier Peninsular
2nd June 2012
One of the many things we wanted to do whilst in Broome was to take up trip up the Dampier Peninsular. We had decided that the best way to tackle this was to put the Trakkie in storage in Broome as we had heard that the dirt section of the Cape Leveque road was pretty rough and as the trip was literally an up and back 500Klm round trip using our tent and not towing would be quicker and easier. Keshi Storage in Broome were very accommodating and the cost was more than reasonable so we were set to go.
The Dampier Peninsular is home to the Aboriginal people of the Jawi, Bardi, Nyulnyul, Jabirrjabirr, Nimanburru and Ngumbari language groups. Prior to Europeans trading systems between Peninsular groups connected them with the inland groups and their thousands of years of culture and traditions dictated their laws. Then in the 1860s the pearling Industry moved north from the Pilbara, becoming established along the coastline between Broome and King Sound. Aboriginal workers were forced to work in the industry, in stark contrast to its romantic image, often as divers in harsh
Beagle Bay
Sacred Heart Church and dangerous conditions. Many local women were captured and sold to pearlers. Sickness and disease arrived with the pearling operations through contact with European, Malay, Chinese, Philipino and Japanese people; this was a pretty brutal time for the communities on the Peninsular.
With much anticipation we set off early as it was a Friday and we had heard that the Indigenous Communities were not open on weekends and we wanted to visit a couple of these, planning to do this on the way up to One Arm Point. Also we had seen many photos in media that showed pristine white beaches and magnificent blue sea, a tropical oasis, these beaches we would explore on Saturday and we would then be able to return to Broome on Sunday to pick up the Van in the afternoon; we were all planned and ready.
The Cape Leveque road travels straight up the centre of the Dampier Peninsular and has 106Klm of dirt/sand road in the middle of it which was very corrugated and rough in some sections. The last 115Klm at the top is all sealed and in good condition. The one thing that we were not prepared for is that
Beagle Bay
Inside the historic Sacred Heart Church over the entire distance of the road you never see the coastline, the scenery is all the same for the entire distance of this long, straight road, scrub. Although the Cape Leveque Road is maintained by Broome Shire all roads leading off to the communities on Aboriginal Land are maintained by the relevant community and generally not all that well. The Middle Lagoon Road was extremely rough and we met a number of people who turned back on this road.
The first community we wanted to visit was Beagle Bay where we visited the Sacred Heart Church with its amazing pearl shell altar. To visit this community, like all the ones we are to visit, you have to pay an entry permit fee. But, although the times on the store said they were open for business they were not so we could not get a permit ! We still visited the church though, it was fantastic. The Trappist Monks came to Beagle Bay in 1890 from France as missionaries, and built they bush monastery from local materials dedicating it to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. However in 1900 the French Trappist Monks left the Australian Mission feeling that their
Beagle Bay
The altar featuring Mother of Pearl Shell “Monastic lifestyle was not suited for such remote locations”! Now that is dedication to the job for you, I think they missed the wine women and song of the old country myself! The Pallottine Missionaries from Germany replaced them and continued to staff the mission at Beagle Bay for the next 90 years, that is true grit! But how about this, the Sisters of St John of God arrived from Ireland in 1907 dedicating themselves to teaching and nursing and the care of the stolen generation children brought to Beagle Bay under Government orders, these ladies stayed for 100 years! Of course during the war the German Missionaries were placed under house arrest (how stupid are we, really!), and it was during this period that the current church was built. The major construction was completed in 1917. Mother of pearl, cowries volutes and olive shells were gathered on the areas beaches and used for the mosaics including the incredible altar which incorporates traditional symbols of the local communities. Today the Spiritan Missionaries continue the work started by the Trappist Monks.
Our next stop was the Lombardina Community and Chile Beach, As we drove in to Lombardina it was immediately
Beagle Bay
Beagle Bay Store, closed despite opening times advertised saying it was open. apparent that this was a proud community, nice gardens and parks, clean streets and it was green, the lawns were all watered, it was an oasis. We pulled up at the information centre to pay for our entry permit and again, although the opening times said they should be open, it was shut and we could find no one! To say we were disappointed is an understatement, it is a long drive out here and this community had a bakery and a culture centre we would love to see. But respect is what these communities are all about and as we could find no one we respected all the signage that said “Respect our Community and do not enter without a Permit”, so we didn’t.
Next was One Arm Point and Ardyaloon Community. This Community is situated at the tip of the Dampier Peninsular and is the site of Australia’s only Trochus hatchery. The Trochus shell plays an important part in the culture of the local community and we were looking forward to seeing this. Firstly we had to get a permit to enter and you guessed it, it was shut, but the local store was open and so
we went in there and asked if they could help us and yes we were able to purchase permits, despite the fact that they insisted the office should be open over the road! We were in, but every road except the one to the Hatchery said “Locals Only” so we did not get ‘into’ the community as such, just access to the beach and the hatchery.
We walked into the Hatchery to find another couple that had just arrived and a fellow said “well I better do a tour then’ seeing as there are 6 of you here”, very laid back. We walked amongst tanks that held Barramundi, all sorts of colourful reef fish, Turtles and an empty tank that “held a Mangrove Jack until a few days ago when they got in and speared him” (for their dinner I suppose, easier than going out and catching one!). Trochus Hatchery, No, the locals collect them, (they are allowed too), this fellow polishes them up and sells them and the money is supposed to go back into the community. The Flesh in the Trochus (high in protein I am told) looks like XXXX but is an important part, (or used
to be before supermarkets), of the local communities diet. As for being able to stand on the tip of One Arm Point and watch the speed of the tide as it roars into or out of King Sound,” No, you can see it from behind this fence, it is Aboriginal Land and you cannot enter”. Bit of a theme happening here, maybe it was just all the things we would like to do that was the problem!
Back down the road to Gambanan where we had decided to camp the night. A local indigenous family (Frank Davey, Maureen and their son Robert) own a magical piece of country on the edge of King Sound and when we arrived, you guessed it Frank was not home despite me talking to him on the mobile last week when he was in Melbourne assuring me he would be back home by Saturday! Others were camped so we just set up, magic spot! Not to worry, Robert arrives with his wife Pamela, they live in Ardyaloon and “Dad will be home tomorrow, he has been to San Francisco for a conference and then on to Las Vegas for a holiday” …not bad, but
Lombardina
..Welcome to Country you should see where dad lives, it is a shed! The following day a Landcruiser, top of the range model is cruising around, sunroofs, leather upholstery, the works….it was Frank and Maureen back from the USA (via Melbourne where I rang him!). Frank was an interesting fellow having served as a commissioner on the (now infamous) ATSIC board as well as many other “Indigenous political/development boards”.
But we had seen enough (or not enough if the truth be told) of the Dampier Peninsular, yes we did find that small idyllic beach (at Ganbanam), Squeaky Beach, and yes it was magnificent, but would I drive a 500KLm round trip to sit on it , Not again. I totally understand that if we had stayed at the only Resort up here our experience may have been totally different, but we had an agenda to not be a “tourist and sit at a resort and do the tourist thing” we wanted to experience the communities and it did not eventuate for us this time. So, despite all this we did enjoy the Dampier Peninsular but for now it is back to Broome along ‘that road’ again to pick up the Trakkie and
Lombardina
Lombardina Turnoff, the sand colour is spectacular on to Derby.
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Matty
non-member comment
Frustrating
Sad to hear that you got all that way and weren't able to do the things you wanted, but as you said maybe that was because you just aren't allowed to. Or maybe it isn't peak tourist season yet? Who knows. Anyway, at least you can say you had a go and went up the road!