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Published: February 12th 2012
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JAVAN MASSAGE. A massage is like a haircut...one of those things you need to do regularly...but often wait until you really need it...like when your hair is suddenly unruly...and it affects your wellbeing...muscles or hair knotted.
And like a haircut...similar but different techniques...each time a new experience...result subjective.
There we were at Pondok Tinggal... traditional Javanese style digs...in the village of Borobudur ...an oasis...a place for me to battle the wickedness of the World that had attacked my gut...a place to recover.
Let me be clear...I'm no wimp...I'm a tough old rooster...never keep a good man down.
But when its raining non-stop...no afternoon shower and fine up this day...no rush...got two more days here...might as well smell the flowers...and do as little as possible.
So when Bari...the waiter...when serving iced strawberry juice...I was adicted to it in Java...and ginger in hot water with brown sugar...hunks of each...grown locally...suggested a massage in my room...easy to say
"Yes". I dreamed of a beautiful Javanese girl...smiling and working the toxins from my body...like in Anyer (see my blog "KRAKATAU: What a Blast..!").
So wasn't I surprised when the evening knock on the door...20 minutes late...was Bari...with
THE EYE IN THE SKY
...watching over us his own mattress..!
I have had massages on most of my travels...in bath houses...in lonely rooms...in our hotel rooms...in resorts...even by a local witch doctor in Dogon Country in Mali.
And each one is memorable for different reasons...and each one is different...a different technique...like one in Pingyao, China where the dear lady...while gently moving my arm...nearly ripped it from my shoulder...and one in Kunming... 90 minutes with her toes...and the blind masseur in Kaifeng...magic.
But the best was Max...a Doctor of Traditional Chinese medicine...had the gift of touch...every Saturday for well over a year in Sydney...swapping stories of China...and music...my excuse...preparing me for Africa...really just the social.
Bari told me his style was Ijen massage...learnt from his mother...I've had Javanese...now Ijen...going there...sounds exotic.
But what made this massage memorable...was not having my nose in a mattress from anywhere...nor the style...which of course was unique...but that...
... there was an Intermission..!
About 20 minutes into the massage, when Bari said
"Can I go downstairs...I have to collect something from a friend"...you say
"OK"...and expect a quick return.
I lay...then sat...then stood around in my jocks...not going anywhere...massage face...then wondering after an eternity...
"Where is he...is he coming back?"
About 40 minutes later...I checked my
watch...Bari returned...continued the massage
..."Did you meet your friend?"...uncertain whether he had or not.
His price was
"Whatever you think it is worth"...and when pressed
..."15,000 rupiah or more"...so I gave him 100,000 (AUD$11)...and he was ecstatic.
Bari had a friend...who could take us up the mountain...for a sunrise overlooking Borobudur...4 a.m start...another angle to see that magic place.
Up at 3.30...bucket shower...dressed...visit the bathroom...out both ends
..."I'm sorry Den...I don't think I can do this. You'll have to go alone." So Denise was driven in a small car...by Bari...in the dark up into the mountains...following a moped...then onto the back of the moped...up dark, wet mountain trails...then on foot to a lookout.
"Couldn't see a thing" she reported
..."obvious the clouds would not lift...so we came back down." I had stayed in bed...slept a lot for two days...had a nice time really...I'm on holidays...I can do what I like.
That night half a mouthful...invited to a Traditional Javanese puppet show...special event tonight at the Pondok Tinggal.
I'm vegetating...Denise to go...check it out.
Hindu stories...as told in the Javanese Court...the Ramayana...the story of Rama & Sita...shades of "Prambanan: Romance in Stone"...told by Muslims...celebrating Javanese culture.
The room was packed out...many had come...15 Javanese musicians...5 women in olive green, matching headscarves...the chorus...and one tiny women in red...the puppeteer...the narrator.
Den entered...half the crowd eyes left...looking at her...people rising to offer a seat...Den wanting a quiet spot...out of view...not feeling like being on show.
As soon as she sat down...aware of the presence of cameras...one guy jumped in front of her...flash...feeling like those poor victims of an ugly tourist's lens...accepting to pose with those that asked.
A young man sat next to her...fervent to talk to her...explaining the proceedings...two speeches...this is a high level cultural event.
The show starts...puppets...depicting the real world...and the shadows as the other world...various intonations of
"eeeh" & "aaah"...lucky she knew the story...the young man fervently narrating.
Only 5 minutes in...why is everyone getting up?...off to get food...laid on...traditional Javanese
..."free"...once eaten...the room friendlier...now smiling and nodding to Den...not just looking...the joy of food...necessary as there's another 4 hours of the show to go..!
Next day...Americans on Kwaka Ninjas...diving all over Indonesia...what we enjoy on our trips...many stories...chewing the cud.
Time for a walk through the village...raining...no camera...past rice paddies...drains blocked with rubbish...puddles...bike repair shops...warungs (small
or mobile eateries)...one called
"Kentucky Fried Chicken"...guys with horse & cart offerring tours...tourist buses outside Borobudur.
Where is my camera when I need it?
There's the opening image for my "FACES OF JAVA" blog...a headscarf shop...heaps of mannequin torsos...in long neat rows...headscarfs of every colour...would have made an insane picture...what I miss when I don't want to get my camera wet..!
No worries...plenty more...Internet Shop...log onto Travelblog...I feel enthused.
I'd better get off my arse or I'll have nothing to blog about..!
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
It almost makes getting sick worthwhile...
when you have to stop and sniff the flowers. You found the perfect place to relax.