The Galapagos Islands

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Following on from my previous blog of knife wheeling addicts and arguments, I’m delighted to devote an entire entry to our animal packed detour to the Galapagos Islands. We never thought we would get there this trip but after a while it became too hard to ignore the many travelers we’ve met who’ve told us it’s the best thing they’ve ever done. Plus we thought it would be a missed opportunity to be so close and not go. We were easily persuaded. So after a quick review of the budget and some careful researching to find the right deal for us, we were on our way 972km west of continental Ecuador to the archipelago of volcanic islands where Charles Darwin conceived his theory of evolution.

We booked our eight day cruise through www.galapagosislands.com on the Galaven I, an 88 ft. expedition yacht. It wasn’t the cheapest option nor was it the most expensive, but we liked the look of it and ended up scoring a sweet discount. If you have time to spare (which we didn’t) you can usually score a really cheap deal once you get to Isla Baltra, the main island. We were on a tight schedule so we booked a few weeks in advance. We happy to have everything including flights, transfers etc. organised in advance. We flew from Guayaquil to the archipelago’s main island, Isla Baltra where we were met by one of our guides, Angel. We then had some time to kill before we could leave for the yacht because we had to wait for the other passengers who traveling from Quito on another flight. We enjoyed a beer and explored the many tourist shops while we eagerly awaited our fellow passengers. Once we were all assembled, we headed to Puerto Ayora where we were excited to see the Galaven I waiting for us looking not too shabby. Berni and I quickly discovered we were the youngest of the passengers (we had an inkling we might be). However we made friends easily and when we were eventually on board we met Kim from Sydney who also was under 60, a big plus for us. We were then showed to our rooms and I don’t really know how Berni and I managed it but we scored one of the two pimping double suites on the main deck with double bed, big windows and small lounge area. Our neighbours were Dave and Shirley a friendly couple from the US who spend their retirement globetrotting. The rest were on the lower deck in standard suites with tiny single beds. Score to us (…we kept our excitement levels to ourselves in order to not cause jealously amongst the other passengers). After we quickly settled in we were served an amazing buffet lunch before being ferried ashore again for our first activity. So off the yacht and on land again, we hopped straight onto a bus for the hour long trip to the highlands to see the Giant tortoises. Once in the highlands, the weather changed from being nice and clear to cold, drizzly and cloudy - perfect Giant tortoise conditions. The Giant tortoises’ live on a reserve in their natural habitat. When we arrived we were told we could venture off on our own too see the Giant tortoises, we could get close and take photos sin flash (without flash) but strictly no touching or riding the animals. After seeing the Giant tortoises, I can understand why they have to include the ‘no riding’ the rule. It was definitely tempting. There were about a hundred Giant tortoises in the reserve and they varied in size and age. The larger ones, like the one in the photo with Berni, were 150 years old. They have an incredible lifespan and they have no natural predators which you would think attributes to their life pretty chilled life. After the Giant tortoises, we had free time in Puerto Ayora where Berni and I witnessed a fairly intense game of volleyball between some of the islanders. Then back on board, we were served a welcome cocktail and we were introduced to the crew before another delicious buffet for dinner.

The following day, having motored most of the night, we arrived at Isla Santa Fe and after a hot breakfast we were heading to shore to see the colonies of Sea lions who’d made the sandy beach their home. When we approached the shore the sound was almost deafening. There were hundreds of barking Sea lions to welcome us. It was an incredible sight. We spend the morning wandering from group to group of lazy Sea lions observing them in a David Attenborough-esk manner. We enjoyed following one lazy Sea lion in his effort to make it to the water. It was a very slow process - he didn’t tackle the whole 15m journey in one go. He managed it in 2m increments, taking a few seemingly laboured steps then the overcome by exhaustion, he would break to rest before giving next few metres a go. This is why we came to the conclusion that Sea lions were the laziest of all Galapagos animals. For our next activity we went snorkeling off the yacht. Now I’m embarrassed to admit in my whole 27 years, I have never snorkeled before. Well not properly. So I suited up in an XXL hired wetsuit, put on my flippers, spat in my mask (because apparently you do) and jumped in. I wasn’t used to wearing flippers so one of my calves cramped up immediately. However, I didn’t let it trouble me – I took off the problem flipper and used only the one. A little unorthodox but I got by (although I did seem to veer to one side). We got to see lots of colourful fish (I couldn’t tell you species, some were stripy and some were rainbow) and a lonesome Sea Turtle. Berni, who could dive under properly even got to see a Whitetip reef shark. After 45 minutes of snorkeling we were worn out and my hands were turning purple from the cold (the XXL wetsuit didn’t help much) so we headed back to the yacht for hot showers and lunch. During lunch we were introduced to our second guide, the extremely excitable and enthusiastic Rizzle… he loved his job. Shortly after lunch we were onshore again, this time on Plaza Sur (South Plaza) where we first came by the brightly coloured Land iguanas. The group split in two and followed the guides on a trail to the cliff edge. The trail was scattered with Land iguanas, Marine iguanas, Swallow-tailed gulls and a few rogue Sea lions. There were literally hundreds of Land iguanas, and they stood out because of their stunning yellow colouring. It’s lucky they don’t have any natural predators on the island because they wouldn’t do hiding well. Berni and I went with Rizzle who loved his job, and we cracked up when he was suddenly overcome with awesomeness when a Swallow-tailed gull rose off its nest to reveal an egg – He loved his job. The trail soon led to the cliff edge where we enjoyed the breathtaking view and wondered at a few rogue Sea lions and how they came to be perched so high up on the edge of the cliff. Back on board during our nightly briefing for the following day’s activities, Rizzle made us take it in turns to say what we had liked best about our day. His favourite moment was when we saw the gull reveal its egg. “It was awesome!”

The following day we were up early for a hot breakfast. Then the morning’s activity was a panga (rubber dingie) ride through the mangroves near to Isla Santa Cruz. Peering into the crystal clear water close to the mangroves we saw Eagle rays, Golden rays, Stingrays and Whitetip reef sharks. I was kind of glad I was in the panga and not snorkeling. We also saw Blue-footed boobies diving for fish. It’s definitely an impressive display. From a great height, they dive-bomb into the water, popping up moments later, beak full of fish. The sound of them hitting the water can give you a fright. This was happening all around us. We then went ashore on Dragon Hill, on Isla Santa Cruz for beach snorkeling. I ditched the XXL wetsuit this time and braved the cold waters in my bikini. The sun was shining so the water seemed quite enticing despite its temperature. I swam with a school of fish (silvery, long and pointy) and a lone Sea turtle. I then got a fright when a dark shadowy figure brushed by me, but it was just a curious Sea lion and luckily nothing to stress over. For our afternoon activity we went ashore on Isla Bartolome where we had 300 steps (600 metres) to conquer to the summit of the island. For Berni and I the climb wasn’t difficult – we’d had enough practice by then but for the other passengers of 60+ years the prospect of 300 steps was very daunting. Everyone made it thought, in their own time. The trail is quite surreal, through recent volcanic eruptions and Mars-like landscapes. Along the way we stopped several times so Rizzle could point out flora and fauna like Lava Cactuses and Lizards. From the summit, the climbers were rewarded with a view overlooking Pinnacle Rock – the most photographed view of the islands. It was a beautiful sight. After the climb we were able to go snorkeling around Pinnacle Rock. Only a dedicated few made it out, most were on board resting sore joints. This time we got to see Penguins… a very rare sight. Under Pinnacle Rock the water turned murky and the underwater rock formations dropped off to the reveal the depths of the ocean – too scary for Claire. I turned back to warm up on the beach, but Berni and Kim continued round over the deep scary where they got to see a larger colony of Penguins (and out of the prying eyes of the guides Berni snuck a quick pat).

On our fourth day we had another panga ride, this time it was along the rocky shore of Isla Rabida. The landscape was amazing, with dark red sand and rock formations and silvery, eerie looking trees. Hiding in the narrow rock crevices we got to see sleeping Fur sea lions. They differ quite a lot from Sea lions which you may not perceive on first glance – they are smaller in size, have a comparatively blunter snout, have a thicker, duel layer fur coating and larger eyes. They are shy, nocturnal creatures, hence the larger eyes for nighttime hunting, and they spend their day hiding from the equatorial sun. Unlike the Sea lions who spend their day sunbaking and curiously checking you out. While on our panga ride we also saw a youth Sea lion enthusiastically practicing his hunting techniques by thrashing around an already dead fish. Rizzle thought that was “awesome” and later declared it to be his most favourite moment from the day. After lunch we motored to our next destination, Bahia James (James Bay) where we went ashore for beach snorkeling. It was by far the best snorkeling yet, not wanting to be scared off by any more scary deep, I snorkeled alongside and holding hands with Berni. We snorkeled further around the rocky point to where the underwater rock formations drop steeply away and were all of a sudden surrounded by 20 or so Sea turtles. It was quite difficult to swim, without bumping into one. They didn’t seem bothered by our presence. In fact I don’t think they could be bothered at all, they have such smiley faces. We swam with them for ages, watching them eat from the algae and pop up for air. The experience was definitely a highlight for both of us and I was very happy that I ventured past the deep scary.

The following day we were up earlier than usual for yet another panga ride, to Black Turtle Cove. It was a beautiful day, but the reflection of the sun made it difficult to see. However, in the shadows of the mangroves we did manage to spot Whitetip reef sharks and several Sea turtles poking their heads up for air. Before lunch we said goodbye to Kim and two other passengers, and gained six more - Chris and Christine from Darwin, a German couple and two brothers from Brisbane. We also said goodbye to our first guide Angel and welcomed Yasmani, a snorkel enthusiast and our second guide for the rest of the cruise. With the new passengers settled in we motored to our next destination, North Seymour Island. On North Seymour Island we followed a rocky trail from one side of the island to the other during which time we got to see more Land iguanas, bigger than the ones on Plaza Sur but not as bright, we also crossed paths with lots of Marine iguanas, they’re less impressive than their land relatives but they can swim and if you get too close, they will spit at you. That evening when we were back on board waiting for our briefing, Berni read about the Marine iguanas in Charles Darwin’s ‘Voyage of the Beagle’, and learnt about some of the interesting experiments Charles Darwin conducted on these animals. One such experiment was that he would chase a Marine iguana to a point on land where its only option to avoid being caught was to jump into the water. However, none of them ever did, even though they can swim. Once he even experimented with throwing them into the water, but they would just swim back to him. Also one of Darwin’s sailors tied a Marine iguana to a weight and threw it into the water where it sank to the bottom. One hour later the sailor pulled up the weight and the Marine iguana was still alive. It’s amazing how the animals react to the human presence when they don’t have any natural predators. If the Marine iguanas had a natural predator then maybe they would have jumped into the water when chased.

On our sixth day we went to Gardner Bay, the most famous white sand beach in the Galapagos. It was unfortunately overcast when we arrived but I could appreciate its beauty regardless. We spent the morning wandering the length of the beach visiting the groups of lazy Sea lions lazing about in the sand. We even came by one which had a fairly sizable bite taken out of its side. It was definitely a result of a shark attack. It was lying on the shore, still alive. It was horrible to see, but when we showed our guide Yasmani he said the bite looked a few days old and that as bad as it looked, it would more than likely survive. I felt better after hearing that, but I was still extremely nervous to then go and put my flippers and mask on for more beach snorkeling. It was worth it though. Yasmani came with us as we snorkeled out to a small rocky island about 100 metres from the shore. He showed us a cave where two Whitetip reef sharks we hiding alongside 2 rather large stingrays. Disturbed, the metre long sharks emerged from their hiding place and swam below us for a while before heading off to find somewhere where they wouldn’t be bothered again. Yasmani also pointed out an octopus, but by this stage I was shaking from the cold and had retreated to the panga. Berni saw it though… he was more immune to the cold than I was. Back onshore the sun finally came out and the beach started to look more impressive. We warmed up, sunbaking for a while before heading back to the yacht for lunch. After lunch we motored to our next destination, Punta Suarez on Isla Espanola. I was excited for Suarez Point because we were told we would get to see Albatrosses. Before we reached the Albatrosses known haunt, we saw lots of other fascinating animals. More Blue-footed boobies, also the Masked boobie – a different kind of boobie, Land iguanas that were bright red and green and more spitting Marine iguanas. We then arrived at the rocky cliff edge where got to see the amazing Albatrosses in flight. They needed the cliff edge to take off from because of the size. I was reminded of a childhood movie… The Rescuers – with Bernard the shy mouse who was scared of flying on the Albatross plane. While on the trail back to the panga we saw lots of Albatross babies. They weren’t as impressive as their adult parents with their fluffy brown feathers, but they were still amazing to see. Back on board Galaven I we had dinner and motored through the night to our destination for the following morning, Post Office Bay. Here there is an old wooden barrel which whalers (a big industry at the time) established in early 1793. Outbound ships would drop off letters after rounding the cape and ships returning home would hand deliver them. And now the tradition continues – although I think the barrel has been replaces a few times since. Tourists drop off a postcard here, no stamp required and hope another fellow traveler will hand deliver it to the lucky recipient. We wrote one to Berni's parents which they received from a couple in Manly who had picked it out of the Post Office Box and delivered it from Sydney via Australia Post. We heard from the Frosts that they received the postcard only two weeks later which is a better rate than actually posting your postcards (some our friend Chris sent around the same time are still yet to arrive). Has any of my family received my postcards from Bolivia yet??? Post Office Bay is on Isla Floreana. Rizzle told us a bit about the islands history which is a story full of intrigue and mystery. I loved Rizzle’s account and intend on researching the truth of it, but for now it goes…once a wealthy German dentist and his young mistress, a young family whose name was Wittmer, and a baroness accompanied by her three lovers all came to settle on the island. Shortly after the baroness and her lovers arrived, the chaos began. The baroness and her entourage terrorised the other inhabitants all the while planning to build a luxury hotel on the island. Eventually the baroness, two of her lovers and the wealthy dentist all turned up missing or dead. Over time there has been much investigation into what really happened on Isla Floreana, but there have never has there been any answers uncovered. After Rizzle’s enthusiastic account of the mysteries of Floreana we went to explore a nearby underground lava tunnel. We had to ascend via steep wooden steps and a rope to guide you in the dark. I had a torch, but many of the others didn’t… like Berni who was stumbling along behind me (having heroically given his up to an elderly lady from our group). Once down the wooden steps, we had to first duck through a low height tunnel, then wade through freezing water which came up to the tops of my thighs. The once we stopped moving and focusing on the ground and each step we realised we were in a huge cavernous tunnel. Yasmani said if we kept following it, we would end up in the ocean but unfortunately we had reached as far as our guides would let us go. The way forward did look a far bit more precarious… not for the 60+.

For our next activity we got to snorkel off the beach on Isla Floreana. We followed Yasmani to a spot where he knew Sea turtles would be feeding. And sure enough, they were… there were eight hungry Sea turtles in total. Then it was back on board for lunch while we motored to Cormorant Point, our next destination. Here we ventured to a lagoon where Flamingos often are. However, it’s quite rare to see them and unfortunately we didn’t. We would have to save our Flamingo experience till the Salt Flats of Uyuni in Bolivia (stay tuned). Our walk wasn’t entirely void of animal life… we did get to see Stingrays feeding along the shoreline of the beach. I’ve never seen anything like it. You had to be very careful where you stood as there were hundreds. That evening, as it was our last night on board Galaven I, we shared a farewell cocktail with the crew before an amazing buffet dinner. While we ate we motored back to Puerto Ayora, it was an extremely rocky trip and it made queuing for the buffet extremely difficult. When we arrived we had the option to go ashore for a few hours. Berni did to find an internet café and check where we were to meet Chris the following day. I stayed on board and packed. It was sad that our little holiday from our holiday experience was over. We had such an amazing time and would highly recommend it. Even if it does hurt the backpacker budget a little, it’s definitely worth it. However, we did have once last stop the following morning, at the Charles Darwin Research Station on Puerto Ayora. Here we got to see hundreds of teeny tiny baby Giant tortoises. There are being bred to increase the previously dwindling population. We also got to see two of the Galapagos’ most famous creatures. Lonesome George, the last of the Giant tortoises left on Isla Pinta and sadly the last of his species, and Diego, a Galapagos Giant tortoise who spend his youth in the San Diego Zoo. Diego is now on a mission of love to save his species. After a quick walk through the research centre we boarded a bus which took us to airport. We then said our goodbyes, tipped our guides and boarded an Aerogal flight back to Guayaquil to meet Chris who we were heading with to Mancora, Peru. Our time in the Galapagos was a memorable experience which we highly recommend. Most people who venture to the islands do so in their retirement but we found it to be an extremely rewarding experience to do while we’re young. Our next stop was Mancora, Peru – one of the best beaches in Peru. I will say goodbye to you for the meantime as Berni has decided to write the next blog. I’m uncertain if it’s because of his never ending quest to prove he is better than me at everything, or if it’s of the back of a drunken promise. I’m not sure. But I hope you’ll enjoy it.

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Photos

Berni with a shy Giant tortoise on South Seymour
I've also showed a photo I took on Day 8 when we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station. Here you can see baby Giant tortoises which are only as big as your hand. It's crazy to think one day (perhaps in 150 years) they'll be as big as the one in the photo with Berni

We came to the conclusion that Sea lions are the laziest of all Galapagos animals
One of the 30,000 Sea lions in the Galapagos. This one belonged to one of the few colonies on Isla Santa Fe (Day 2)

The brightly coloured Land iguana on Islas Plaza, Plaza Sur
During the afternoon on Day 2, we visited South Plaza where we were blown away by the amazing Land iguanas. I think they look like very happy animals

The amazing cliffs on Islas Plaza. How did those Sea lions get there?
We spent a little while here, sitting on the rocks by the cliff and admiring the beautiful landscape

The white sand beach on Isla Bartolome (Bartholomew)
On Day 3 we had the best weather of the whole trip. Here we enjoyed the sun, sand and snorkeling. We swam with Sea turtles and watched them feed

A Lava Cactus on Isla Bartolome
A drastic change in landscape from the white sand beach earlier on Day 3. We saw this amazing Lava Cactus on our way up the 300 steps to the viewpoint on Isla Bartolome

A Marine iguana on Isla Bartolome. A dinosaur-like creature that can swim
Also on Day 3 while on our way to the viewpoint on Isla Bartolome, we found this Marine iguana lying in the sun soaking up the heat

Isla Bartolome's Pinnacle Rock
Once we reached the summit this was the amazing view awaiting us. It is the most photographed landscapes in the Galapagos

A Lizard posing for Berni on Isla Bartolome
Another animal we crossed paths with on our back down the 300 steps from the viewpoint on Isla Bartolome

A curious Sea lion on the red sand beach of Isla Rabida
On Day 4 we went ashore on Isla Rabida for some beach snorkeling. Here we also spent the morning with a colony of Sea lions.

A Blue-footed boobie in flight. One of the most interesting birds in the Galapagos
While exploring the rocky coastline of Black Turtle Cove on Day 5 I snapped this picture of a Blue-footed boobie in flight

A playful baby Sea Lion on Isla Gardner
Look what I found while exploring the rock pools on Isla Gardner on Day 6. It looked like this baby Sea lion was learning to swim in the shallows

A nesting Albatross on Isla Espanola
On Day 6 we went to Punta Suarez on Isla Espanola. Here we got to see an Albatross for the first time. Definitely my favourite type of bird on the Galapagos

Bahia Post Office on Isla Floreana
Drop off a postcard here, no stamp required and hope another fellow traveler will hand deliver it to the lucky recipient. We wrote one to Berni's parents which they received from a couple in Manly who picked it out of the Post Office Box

A Sally lightfoot crab on Isla Floreana
We saw these bright red and orange crabs everywhere we went

Berni swimming with a Sea Turtle - photo by Yasmain
While we were snorkeling off Isla Floreana.

Me swimming with a Sea turtle - photo by Yasmani
While we were snorkeling off Isla Floreana. I'd finally learnt to hold my breath and dive under to get a better look

Comments

[Michael Sibert]

Awesome photo's
Sounds like a great adventure holiday with all the diving, swimming climbing and wild life! The white tipped reef shark vid is pretty cool if not a bit too real ... love dad