Big Cat Diary

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The Serengeti Plains of Northern Tanzania offer unrivalled safari experiences for African wildlife enthusiasts like myself. The annual migration from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara national reserve in Kenya is the stuff of legends, where up to a million wildebeest and a quarter of a million zebras head north in search of fertile plains to graze. They must also run the gauntlet of an array of predators before reaching their final destination. This is nature at her most majestic, where an awe inspiring phenomenon has captured the imagination of lounge chair safari fans for generations.

But life is not about a veg out in front of the telly, dear reader, here in Tanzania you can experience an authentic safari experience heading out of Arusha. The journal left off in Zanzibar, from where I flew in a small plane to Arusha airport in one and a half hours. I checked in to the excellent Arusha Backpackers in the city centre, and immediately started networking about safari options for the upcoming days. It was a sunday in town so all the safari businesses were closed, but the casual receptionist had me on the blower to a local operator within an hour of checking in. It just so happens he had a girl booked but was waiting for another person, so I went to an ATM to withdraw wads of cash to hand over that very day, to ensure I was locked in for a departure within the next few days. I was stoked, and my experiences on the road prove it's always best to book tours on arrival to get the best price. Mind you the uncertainty of arriving in the low season with no safari booking had been preying on my mind.

Anyways, I had a day to kill in Arusha so booked on a cultural tour with my safari company to experience Masai culture up close and personal. Jackpot Safaris provided two guides, one of whom was Masai, and we visited the Masai cattle market that takes place every Monday and Tuesday, then went for a long walk to a Masai traditional village, and on to the summit of a steep hilltop where we rested for lunch. We then had another long walk chatting about the Masai and African animals before we reached the highway, and the experience had me buzzing at the end of another wonderful day here in Africa. From time to time we came across Masai randomly while herding or walking the trail, and enjoyed walking with them for a time.

The next day I arose for the safari full of anticipation. If I could choose a hobby without having to worry about finances it would be game spotting in Africa. I prepared for my third African safari with as much excitement as ever, but as you read on you'll discover this safari will prove to be a hard act to follow. My safari companion is an attractive, intelligent and thoroughly engaging student from Saskatchewan, and before graduating she is doing the practical part of her degree in Arusha volunteering for an NGO. She tells me that back in the prairie provinces of Canada they say you can watch a dog running away for three days! It was just the two of us booked on the great Serengeti adventure. I understand life can be unfair and sometimes I get all the luck, but you have to put yourself out there first!

Our first bit of spotting occurred even before we reached the game reserves. Our old Land Rover suddenly veered right and before we had the chance to say 'sh#tbox' we were playing spot the mechanic at the local servo! Since leaving Arusha we became increasingly concerned as our guide had been playing pick a gear ... any gear, but with limited success. The clutch on the truck was shot through, and over the course of the three day safari I think I got the Toyota logo embedded in my brain, as we must have been passed by over a hundred Land Cruisers. It proved without a doubt to be an inauspicious start to our safari, but from that moment our game spotting adventure was like having your dreams come true. We spent our first afternoon driving down into the Ngorongoro Crater, for some game spotting set against sublime natural scenery. The marsh lions of the crater are world renowned, but unfortunately we didn't spot any that afternoon. Our guide informed us Serengeti males sometimes venture down the crater to attempt a takeover of the pride lionesses. However, the hunting in the crater is exceptionally good and the biggest-baddest, rootin-tootin, black mained resident males are more than willing to administer rearrange faces with some free panel beating, if marauding males dare venture down into their territory uninvited.

We arrived back up on the crater rim to pitch tents with other travellers at Simba camp at the end of our first day. Things quickly became extraordinary after dinner as we saw other safari groups suddenly reaching for their cameras. Incredibly a bunch of zebras took a shine to the area just outside our tent and plopped themselves down for the long haul. The zebras wouldn't budge unless provoked by tourists getting too close, they had decided to set up shop on our porch. We also saw a herd of buffalo grazing less than five metres away, and eventually our guide made the decision to pull up stumps and asked me to help shift the tent. It was incredible having wild zebras lying one metre from your tent, but the buffaloes on the other hand were a serious cause for concern.

Our second day commenced after a reasonably good sleep in the tent with an excellent brekkie, and we headed out of the Ngorongoro conservation area the animals share with the local Masai tribe, and on to the Serengeti National Park. The terrain was changeable, but with an abundance of wildlife. We saw heaps of animals including a hyena family near the track with three young pups. The mother didn't seem concerned as the pups came right up to our truck to sate their curiosity, and even our guide was enthralled as we enjoyed a rare safari experience. The day was topped off when we came across a male leopard in a tree less than five metres from the track, thereby fulfilling a lifetime ambition of mine. We were dumbstruck, basically thrilled to bits. Just when I thought things couldn't get any better this magnificent animal awoke, began to groom himself, had a stretch and a yawn, then climbed down the tree and crossed the track right in front of us on his way to the Savannah grasses to hunt. The stealthy and elusive killer of the Serengeti put on a show we will never forget.

We then headed on to the unfenced Pimbi camp to camp for our second night camping, a part of safaris in the Serengeti unlike camping in the national parks of Southern Africa. The toilet was too far from the tents, and I only got half way there before chickening out and brushing my teeth where I froze, then using the bush toilet then and there. Our final day involved an early start, before our guide roused us up during brekkie to pack without delay. There were reports of cheetahs spotted in the area, and soon after heading off we were privileged to see three males at close range while they observed a buffalo herd. That morning we also came across a bad ass male lion on the move who was focussed on a slow moving buffalo herd. Suddenly out of nowhere a wildebeest started running erratically in the long grass, and our guide said his superior sense of smell must have sensed a predator, but didn't know exactly where the danger lay. The carnivore was camouflaged and downwind of the herbivore, and decided to launch into a dramatic stalk. Suddenly the wildebeest veered away just as he seemed to be heading into a world of hurt, and the lion had to cross the track in pursuit. In doing so the lion had blown his cover, and the hunt was over before it reached a bloody climax. However my heart was thumping in my chest as the huge lion sauntered right by our truck, venting his frustration at the unsuccessful outcome of his hunt.

During the drive out of the park we enjoyed so much wildlife it's hard to put into words, but highlights included a group of striped mongooses and two serious looking lionesses on the prowl, who looked up at us with malevolent eyes as they passed right by our truck. It was without a doubt the best safari experience of my life and, basically all of you should be here now!

And now, this is the sweetest and most glorious day that ever my eyes did see." Donald Cargill

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Male Leopard
This majestic animal made my dreams come true in the Serengeti.

Male cheetahs
Always alert with a herd of buffalo in the background.

Hyena pup
Three pups walked right up to our truck to sate their curiosity. Even our guide was blown away.

Eland and Zebra
Photo opportunity on the Serengeti Plains.

Hyenas
One is heavily pregnant

Striped mongooses
Scanning the savannah for danger at their den.

Lioness on the prowl
Striding the Serengeti with a female companion when we happened upon them.

Comments

[Colin]

Wow
Wow! What an amazing safari!

[Lisa]

Just catching up on some of your blogs - it's been a great read! Thanks for sharing!