Alpine crossings, bucket showers and sleeping in the car

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For a small country New Zealand certainly does things big, and so it was no surprise to arrive in the town of Taupo and come across a lake the size of Singapore. The only development on this huge expanse was a floating golf green called 'Hole in one challenge' which we gave a miss en route to the Huka Falls. We had been enticed by the many hot springs the north island had to offer but not by the prices that were charged to enjoy them. So it was with great pleasure that, after a nice walk along the banks of the fast flowing river to Huka Falls, we steamed our bodies under natural, free hot springs that flowed by the cold river. Perfect.

Having skipped the Tongariro National Park on the way up due to bad weather this time we were entering the volcanic region with clear blue skies promised. However you wouldn't have known it when we turned up at a DOC campsite in the surrounding area with rain gushing down around us. 

The next mornings clear skies were tempered with an illness for Han that meant we gave hiking that day a miss and instead went for a drink in the beautiful surrounds of Phaka Papa village. Picking up some hikers on the way only fuelled our desire to do the trek the next day.

Although not recovered, Han was ready the next morning to tackle the six hour Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Suitably booted and with a bag full of food, water, jumpers, a map and thermal blanket (you never know at altitude), we set off with vigour.

The low tussock land that we powered through was dominated by the imposing Mount Ngurahoe aka Mt Doom. It's perfectly stereotypical volcanic cone shape went in and out of cloud cover as we got closer to it's base. After two hours we reached the saddle having endured a very steep ascent. All of Hans early energy was now draining fast so we ate some fruit and took in the views that surrounded us. 

In this the peak summer time, we shared our paths with lots of others but it did not detract from the beauty of it all. We crossed what seemed like a moonscape that was a crater filled by a previous eruption. Although still active the volcano had not erupted for hundreds of years. We scrambled up a ridge that took us to the red crater where evidence of the last eruption was even more evident. Huge vents spilled out into the burned red cavern as, delicately poised, we peered in. This was an amazing place to be. 

Yet more walking lead us to a high point that looked over the brilliant emerald lakes. It was here that we revelled in our days work, ate cheese and tomato sandwiches and watched tour groups fall over on the shingle. We had reached the half way point and as our car was parked back at the Montepeho Hut we decided it would be best to turn back. The second half is supposed to be not as stunning also.

Coming back down was tricky, manipulating our path down very loose shingle and over high ridges. Jumpers were on and off as we battled the coldness off altitude with our sweaty bodies. It was a wonderful days hiking in a most amazing volcanic land.

Back at base and at the rest of our car, we drove out to the edge of lake Taupo where the sun shone onto crystal clear water that pulled us in for a swim. Sharing our water with some pushy swans Han was quickly out and with the warm weather we filled up our bucket and had a wash. It was our first clean in quite a while and much needed. Travelling independently with no facilities you really do appreciate how special being able to shower is. Bucket showers, however, were our way of life and I loved it as did the cars that passed by.

It took a trip to the doctors and a course of antibiotics for Han to get better. So having seen the American doctor we decided that some beach and snorkelling time in Northland would be a good way to spend our last few days in New Zealand. We battled the heavy traffic around Auckland and made it up to the beautifully positioned seaside town of Leigh. Unfortunately the sun was not shining the next day and it was not beach weather. Instead we found a craft brewery and restaurant called the Sawmill Cafe, where we imbibed and relaxed with the weekending locals.

The next day the sun came out and so did the snorkels. The sea was a damn sight warmer than in the South Island but not up to our Asian standards. Thus our snorkelling was rather brief and followed by ample time warming on the beach and reading.

With only one day left we headed to Auckland where the leafy suburbs consumed us for a while. Once we had negotiated the roads of this vast city we found it to be a rather relaxed place with nice beaches and coves. When planned the city wanted everyone to have their own house with garden and so it has a sprawling feel. When in the city it was distinctly less relaxed, admittedly we did go into the centre at rush hour but my word they have some traffic problems.

The last few nights we had been sleeping in our car to avoid any expensive camping fees as there were no DOC campsites around Auckland or Leigh. But the first night in New Zealand's capital city was disturbed at midnight by a warden wanting to close his park gate. He very graciously woke us up and moved us on. Then our last night in New Zealand was spent at what we thought was a quiet spot and that turned out to be used by young valentine couples in their cars. Quite amusing. 

So we ended our stay in this beautiful country on a similar note to how we had started it by sleeping on an airport floor. These are the types of things you can only do when travelling like we are. It is sometimes rather crazy but I love the free spirited nature of it. That said I certainly am looking forward to a bed and a hot shower in Buenos Aires.

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Photos

Multicoloured thermal pools
(colder up here...switch hats!)

Comments

[mum backhouse]

Hi guys, just catching up! So glad i didnt know about the caving beforehand - looks terrifying! Still, i know you survived unscathed so alls well. Didnt know you hadnt been well, Hanni darling, hopefully fully recovered now.Well, best read on. sending you loads of love xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx