Day 37: Little Blue Penguins


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Oceania » New Zealand » South Island » Oamaru
January 5th 2011
Published: January 6th 2011
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I spent the morning sitting in the Kiwi's Nest's lounge, waiting anxiously for the taxi. I was anxious because no dispatcher had been willing to quote me even a ball-park price. But my ankle was hurting and my knees weren't feeling all that great either, so I felt I had to pay whatever it would cost.

In the event, it cost six dollars and thirty cents, and the driver carried my bags into the station for me. The station was pleasant and cleaner than Christchurch's.

The trip to Oamaru was quite short; it took less than two hours -- and the only significant thing that happened was that we passed close enough to the Moeraki Boulder field that I could see the outlines of the boulders. Not as good as being in among them, but at least I can say I've seen them from a distance. They are rare geological formations.

I was exhausted when I got to Oamaru, even though the bus ride was so short, and even though I only had to lug my luggage for three or four blocks.
Unfortunately, I had booked and confirmed a day tour and evening penguin viewing at the Little Blue Penguin preserve.

My tour was set for 7:45. At 6:45 I reluctantly headed out into the rain (of course, it was
raining). The proprietor of the Empire Hotel, where I'm staying, was kind enough to lend me an umbrella.

I got there on the stroke of 7:45. It was well over a mile away, and my knees and ankle were protesting vehemently. I was also concerned because part of the indicated route ran along a road with no sidewalk. It is possible, perhaps likely, that there is a pedestrian route I don't know about, which would have been safer; I followed the signs I saw which were for cars.

I was the only person paying extra for a Day Tour at 7:45 (actually, as it turned out, 8:00. ) It was well worth it. The little penguins cannot see anything lower-frequency than yellow light, so the center has constructed nest-boxes with red-orange lighting and skylights. I looked through red-orange glass, down at several grown penguins and a couple of chicks.

I was also taken into the nesting grounds and shown an empty nest box and (from a distance) an inhabited one. The grounds are fenced, with penguin-sized holes in the fence. That helps to keep dogs and cats out. They have traps set up for smaller predators, like ferrets.

Then came the evening viewing. I was very anxious about getting home, partly because of the distance, partly because the area I walked through to get there had been absolutely deserted, and partly because of that bad patch of road. Accordingly, I stayed only half an hour, until 9:30 -- long enough to see the first batch of penguins come ashore, dry themselves off, and scurry to their boxes.

The little penguins were adorable. They were each about a foot long, with blue tuxedos and white shirt-fronts. They came ashore in flocks, swimming together just as other birds fly together, and calling encouragement to one another.

Once they had landed, they stood on the shore for ten minutes or so, preening themselves and letting their feathers dry out. Then, with a sudden scurrying, the whole group dashed up the slope and through the fence to their nest-boxes. A new group was just coming in; I don't know whether they were clearing the way for them on the landing-stage, or whether it was just coincidence.

At that point, having seen one group come inland, I decided that I should try to walk home while it was still twilight. I got up and left the grandstand, somewhat regretfully. But I was glad of the lingering light when I went down that bad section of road. I got back to my hostel about 10:30, just as the twilight became full night.

I have no pictures of the little penguins, or indeed of anything else, as it was foggy on the bus-ride and photography of the penguins was strictly forbidden. They are coming ashore only to feed and tend their chicks, and if they are frightened by the flash they will bolt back out to sea, [eaving their chicks to starve.


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6th January 2011

Meredith, your trip is absolutely packed with interesting sightseeing and what sounds like quite strenuous exercise/lots of walking in addition to the occasional steep incline. I'm very impressed at your tenacity and determination to see as much as possible, even though you are traveling alone and have several disabilities which make the trip difficult. It sounds like you are enjoying it overall, despite the frustrations you've encountered so far. Hope it continues to be as enjoyable for your whole term, and maybe less fatiguing as you continue!
8th January 2011

Thanks for the encouragement! I really appreciate your comments; it's encouraging to know that someone other than my husband is reading my blog.

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