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Published: November 23rd 2010
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The sun rises on a desolate wasteland. Vast plains of nothingness stretch far into the horizon ....
Enough about Stepney though, let's talk about Jaisalmer, set deep in the desert of Rajasthan.
I checked out of my hotel and spent the rest of the day in Pushkar killing time and waiting for my bus to leave at 9pm. Most of the time was spent reading Roots by Alex Haley, a really good book I'd recommend, before heading over to the Raj Palace Hotel for a few drinks. The manager Prem and his girlfriend Jenny were there playing an Indian board game which seemed to be a kind of cross between backgammon and tiddlywinks. They invited me to play with them, it's a very addictive game but in the end I had to make my excuses and get my bus.
If being on a sleeper carriage train is an experience, then being on a sleeper bus takes it to the next level. I climbed into what is basically a glass coffin and stayed there for the next eleven hours, trying to sleep while the bus rattled along, until we pulled up in Jaisalmer. I'd already booked my hotel, but
just before we arrived a tout boarded the bus pretending to be part of the bus company. After unsuccessfully trying to persuade me my hotel was run by money grabbing crooks he gave up and I left the bus to be greeted as arranged by the manager of Himalaya Guest House who is Prem's brother, who drove me through Jaisalmer Fort to the hotel, where I've been renting a room for around one pound thirty a night.
Founded in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisal, Jaisalmer consists of the Fort, which is a small town within a city, with the rest of the city immediately outside of the fort walls. The streets inside the Fort are much like those of Varanasi, narrow, winding, and interlinked. Almost every building both inside and outside the fort is the same sandstone structure and colour, giving really impressive views from the vantage points in the fort and the Fort Palace Museum roof.
The main reason most people come to Jaisalmer is to go on a camel safari and I was no different. I booked a two day, one night trip through my hotel. It was a little more expensive than most, but was
advertised as as a non touristic safari. Most camel treks are packed with tourists where you are taken out to the desert and met by acts who perform traditional singing and dancing. My trek was with just five other people. We we were first taken out by jeep to the site of a few monuments. It was once of my fellow trekker's birthday and he had brought along a birthday cake which he shared with everyone. We got back in the jeep and were driven close to the India/ Pakistan border before meeting the guide and his two young helpers and setting off across the sand on our camels. Camels are friendlier than their reputation suggests. They can definitely be temperamental at times but they can also be quite affectionate, with mine occasionally turning round to nuzzle me like a dog or cat. They do fart all the time though!
It was great to almost have the desert to ourselves, and we only saw other tourists once from a long distance away. Most of the other people on the trek were irritated by the guides lack of communication. He was clearly a little lazy (possibly connected with the opium
he offered someone when they asked him for a cigarette!), with the two boys doing most of the work, and he didn't explain anything whatsoever - but he was pleasant enough and would chat when spoken to so, for me it didn't really matter. I also felt a little sorry for him when the others asked him to turn off his mobile phone as he was "ruining the authenticity of the experience". Surely the guy's allowed contact with his family and to make a living? No point griping when you get to sleep under the stars in the Thar Desert and watch the sun and moon in the sky at the same time. We stopped at a flat clearing amongst the hills, and settled down for the night next to a hut made out of sticks decorated at the front with a cow's skull. Lying on my back and gazing at the stars through absolute silence is every bit as peaceful as it sounds and in no time I was in thoughtful mode, thinking life over and philosophising in my mind.
The next morning we got up, had breakfast in the desert, and went for another ride on the
camels, this time to the guide's village followed by the sand dunes, which was absolutely amazing. We couldn't stay on the dunes too long as they are bad for camels who aren't the most stable of creatures on their feet but I really enjoyed this part of the trip.
If anyone is thinking of going on a camel safari it's well worth it, although according to the guide books the quality of safaris can be hit and miss so shop around.
Next stop Delhi for a couple of days, purely because it's on the way to Amritsar - so I'm not putting myself under any pressure to do much. In fact if I can get an I-Phone Charger from Connaught Place I'll be happy I've got my music back for the long train journeys.
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Tianna
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Very funnie intro, HA!