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Published: July 23rd 2010
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MALI andCOLIN
HOW CUTE THEY BOTH ARE "WELL FUCK ME” Colin said, as we drove off the corrugated dirt road.
“THANK FUCK FOR THAT"
10 bumpy, dusty, shakin', unforgettable days on the Gibb River Road plus the 600k side track up to Kalumburu and Mitchell Falls.
By the end of the road we were all gorged, creeked, rivered and waterfalled out.
Highlights began with Colin believing he heard the haunting cries of a donkey on the second night; he kept describing the sounds while I patiently listened and quietly thought he had gone mad. Perhaps it was a dream?? He realised by my facial expression that maybe I didn’t believe him and made it his mission to make me understand. All was corrected when on the 4th day we nearly ran over the top of 4 healthy feral donkeys running across the Gibb River Road, HEE-HOARING. My belief in Colin returned.
So basically after Broome and a lovely breakfast with Helena, Jaiden and Kara we set off for Derby for lunch and onto the Gibb River Road.
The first two nights where spent at a place called ‘Silent Grove’, the base for the first attraction ‘Bell’s Gorge’. A short 2 hour return walk, Colin carried Mali.
GIBB RIVER DREAMING
THE START OF THE GIBB RIVER ROAD What began with a trickle of water led to a massive water pool and then a waterfall, were we swam peacefully amongst 50 or so other tourists in the cool water. We couldn’t believe how beautiful it was and the trip did not disappoint with the spectacular scenery that we encountered from then on.
The next day we stopped off at a little sign saying ‘Adcock Gorge’, it wasn’t on the map but we thought what the hell lets check it out. Mali was a sleep so we got out of the car, took some photos of the 1000 year old Boab trees and waited for Mali to wake. We decided to get back on the road as the walk down to the gorge was another 1km and from the signage must have been fairly unimpressive. Back on the road, stopped into Mt Barnett Roadhouse only to be confronted by the stunning vision, a photo of Adcock Gorge in all its gushing waterfall glory. No way were we backtracking.
Next stop was Manning Gorge, an extreme 4 hour round trip, hiking up and down rocks. Poor Colin carried Mali up and down on his shoulders, back, wrapped in his
BOAB TREES
1000 YEAR OLD BOAB TREES @ ADCOCK GORGE arms, trying to keep him amused, as Mali got frustrated because he was tired or hot or bored. Of course it was well worth it, 2 massive water holes, a waterfall and sandy beach. That night we ended up at Manning Gorge Camp.
Next stop - camped 3 nights at King Edward River along the Kalumburu Road and Mitchell Falls turnoff. Part of the stay was to visit Mitchell Falls, the BIG MAMA of water falls. Our fellow campers advised us that the walk up to Mitchell Falls was extreme, Class 6, for experienced walkers and not to bring little Mali as it would be too much for all concerned. I was quite worried and gearing myself up for a massive day and wasn’t really looking forward to it. We decided to get a Helicopter Taxi back from the falls knowing how physically stuffed we would be. The drive was 80km (2 hour drive) to the falls on crappy road, then a 3 hour one way walk up to the top, 8 minute helicopter ride down and then the 2 hour drive back to camp. Boy we were keen.
Anyway as it turns out the walk was not so
CALVINS GORGE
PEACEF & BEAUTY ON THE GIBB RIVER ROAD bad, a beautiful 2 hour casual stroll up to Mitchell falls, thru shaded palm trees and waterholes and creeks trickling next to the path. We couldn’t believe how great the walk was, and had along 5 hours to wait for the helicopter we booked at 3pm, as it was the only available flight time available. A complete adrenalin rush helped finish the day off. Seeing the view from the sky was amazing.
Another highlight was the aboriginal rock art we visited around that area. There were no signs, just a mud map someone had drawn and planted on the national park sign post at the camp site. We came across approx 100 art sites and felt like the early explorers discovering another rock with different styles of art. We were looking at paintings from 1000 years ago, 15,000 years and 30-40,000 years ago. All with animals (some extinct), female dancers and spirits etc.
Kalumburu was our next stop, an aboriginal community right at the top of Western Australia. We had been running out of food supplies, couldn’t wait to get to there to stock up. Arrived dusty and hanging out for a coke only to be stopped by
KING EDWARD RIVER
CAMPSITE WERE WE STAYED FOR 3 NIGHTS, JUST BEAUTIFUL locals telling us the store was only open from Monday to Friday.
Colin said “Yeah we know but today is Friday, is anything open”.
After much discussion realised we had missed a day it was actually Saturday. We had only water, not a lot of food and we hadn’t done the footy tips!
Camped at the mission in town and a kind man from the mission gave us a carton of milk. Lucky as Colin wouldn’t have survived otherwise. That night in the camp kitchen we stole 2 cans of cold coke and left $5 in the box. Only minutes later the man who owned the cans came in and Colin and to explain the situation and apologised for our terrible temptation. The man was feeling sorry for us and gave us another couple of cans, for the next 2 days we savored every last drop of that coke.
Met a local kid called Elvis who was very confident, wanted to be our tour guide and jumped into the drivers seat ready to show us the sights. He said he could drive but wanted to just know if it was in neutral. Colin told him to get in the back
ROCK ART
THE HAUNTING VISIONS OF PAST GENERATIONS seat and he set about showing us the beach etc.
Did a mission tour which was fantastic. The local priest talk about the old days and the rich aboriginal culture in his unique and colorful way. He constantly laughed at his own jokes, sounded a bit like Rodney Rude minus the swearing.
We also went down to the bay to see a barge come in and unload the towns supplies, abit of excitement for the town as they didn’t receive there last shipment since three weeks ago.
We loved the place and I felt a bit sad to go as we drove out of there.
The trip has been littered with highlights, like the time Colin thought the noise was a creaking door when in fact it was a donkey’s cry. Or the miss communication of Colin and I on most occasions regarding the definitions of words like ‘early in the morning’ etc. When we forgot to pay for our camping at Kalumburu which has now been rectified, or the barking Gecko that Colin was fascinated with.
Colin just had his 38th birthday and we celebrated with dinner at Home Valley Station (The place ‘Australia’ movie was filmed.)
MALI THE MECHANIC
JUST DOING SOME WORKING ON THE TYRES DAD with an acoustic entertainer later that night. Of course Mali once again stole the night with his 2 tooth smile. Oh, yes another tooth, up top in the middle, and he uses that grin on all the old retirees we have meet along the way. They all adore him and constantly tell us of there grandchildren at home and how they miss them. One lady even brought out the photos.
Sorry this is so long, hard to remember and write as it was so long ago since Broome. Next stop Northern Territory and my Dad.
Hope everyone is well and happy; we are having the time of our lives.
Love to you all.
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Lisa J. Ladhams
non-member comment
Jealous as Hell
Hi guy's. I am totally loving the blogs. Rachelle you are a natural writer. Can imagine how Colin is as you write and I read with a grin on my face the whole time. And Mali, of course he is a show stopper and a real poser!! Happy Birthday Pop, sounds like one of your best ever. Take care and keep up the reports xoxox