Goodbye Laos, Hello Cambodia

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So we last left off in Laos heading south to 4,000 Islands for some R&R that we didn't know we needed.

From Vientiane we took the overnight bus to Pakse. Neither of us had ever taken an overnight bus before and were surprised (pleasantly) that there were bunk beds. Two people per bed - so not really sure what a solo traveller (especially female) does... A little cramped, and the novelty wore off somewhere between the bus station and the first pothole but all in all it wasn't so bad.

Pakse is a quiet town with not a whole lot going on. Having arrived in town at the crack of dawn, we had the whole day to be productive. We hired a tuk tuk in the morning to take us 20 minutes out of town to this Island where there was a small traditional silk weaving village. It was nice to be able to walk around the Island and see how the silk cloth is made - and how labour intensive it is. We were also the only tourists on the Island which was a nice feeling - yay low season.

The next day we headed down to 4,000 Islands (specifically Don Dhet) for the aforementioned R&R. Accomodations are cheap. Super cheap. But you get what you pay for. We stayed in a thatch bungalow for just under $2 per night. River views, hammocks. Can't really be beat. We spent two full days basically doing just that - sitting in hammocks watching the river flow by, drinking a few cold beers. Our last afternoon we somehow managed to stand up on our own two feet and rent bicycles to do a little tour around the island. One of the main draws of 4,000 Islands is its magnificent sunsets/sunrises. Unfortunately, it being the rainy season, it tended to cloud up and start to storm approximately 20 minutes before sunset - like clockwork.

Somehow we were also able to peel ourselves out of our hammocks long enough to book a bus ticket out of there to Cambodia.

Crossing the boarder in this part of the world - and for us especially the Laos/Cambodia crossing - is a huge display of institutionalized corruption. Leaving Laos the boarder officer demands $2 from everyone crossing (the stamping fee). Normally they only demand a $1 bribe but because it was Sunday it was overtime.... It was the same thing on the Cambodia side...I know these guys get paid next to nothing by the government but they must make a fortune (all relative) especially during high season.
Also a bit different, was the whole set up at the border. We had to get off the bus grab our packs and after receiving the Laos exit stamp walk 200-300 meters down the highway to the Cambodian border.

So Kratie. Our first destination in Cambodia. After being dropped at the side of the road and thinking well...where are we now? We find our bearing and end up at a great little guest house with a second floor terrace restaurant overlooking the Mekong. At $4 a night the price was right. It was great value. Our first day in Kratie we took a boat to a smallish Island immediately opposite town and rented bikes. It was a great ride around and everyone, especially the kids, are super friendly (hello! hello!). It was a beautiful Island and on the far side there was this really interesting small floating village in the river.
We ended up staying an extra day because of some mid afternoon thunderstorms and so yesterday morning we got up early and went 20 km north of town to Kampi to glimpse the famous - and critically endangered - irrawady dolphins. We went out in a boat for close to two hours. It was really cool. We saw a bunch of dolphins (or the same 2 dolphins over and over again). With only about 75 left in this part of the river it was really great to actually be able to see them. There are huge conservation efforts in the area and all the boat drivers are instructed to turn their motors off when within 100m of the dolphins (which they actually did).

Oh and for the p-units. Cell phone is out of order and hasn't worked since we left Thailand. Thought I should mention that. Maybe will get a new number in Vietnam. Maybe.

Pictures should come later.

Hope all are well!

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Comments

[Mom - Debbie (R)]

P-units
Well....it took me a minute to figure out that I was one of these....waiting for the pictures.. Take care of yourselves and have fun. xXXOoo

[Celina]

Border crossing
Wow, crossing the border sounds really familiar to Guatemala! When I crossed into Belize they asked for 20 Quetzals (an illegal fee) to leave the country and then after going through the Belizean customs we walked through a 3 acre 'no man's land' which is disputed territory between the two countries. Same made up fee crossing over to Honduras (where I walked 200m with my backpack until I got to Honduran customs). Lazing in hammock with cold beer sounds pretty great xxxxCelina

[Fink]

hellooo
1. Are ALL the accommodations that cheap there?? WOAH! 2. How very 1992-rogue of you to go with out a cell! and 3. I hope you got to see the dolphins have sex...apparently they are the only ones other than us that do it just for fun! You sound like you are having an incredible time! MISS YOU! XOXOX

[apple baum1]

1. basically yes. usually a litte more if you want air con. but it's been cool-ish at night and we have found that generally we don't need it. 2. I know. But seriously, who am I calling/texting from here? 3. Sadly no. miss you!