She'll be comming round the mountain....

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We arrived at the bus station in Pondycherry and it went a little something like this:
'Madam- bus to Chennai?'
'No sir, Tiruvannamalai'
'Chennai?'
'No sir, Tiruvannamalai'
'You going to Chennai?'
'NO...we..want...a...bus...to...Tir-u-vanna-mal-ai'
'Oh, this is the bus to Tiruvannamalai madam'
'We know... thank you sir!'

Having watched the landscape change from coast, through paddy fields to dry desert-like scrub we finally rocked up, two sceptics in the holy town of Tiruvannamalai. Shadowed by the mountain Arunachala, where a number of holy folk went to live in isolation in caves to find 'enlightenment', leaving a legacy of numerous ashrams and guru addicted followers!

We met with a friend of Joelle's, Laxman, who kindly offered us his kitchen floor for the week, so we headed off around the mountain to his idyllic hideout in the sticks- which brought its very own lavatorial challenges- he assured us, being an old hippy, that it was made entirely from natural materials... and he was right as far a hole in the ground goes!! Part of the enjoyment of staying with Laxman was the early morning swims in a disused quarry, followed by a brisk 15km evening stroll around the mountain which we dutifully trotted 4 times- still no more enlightened, however a few kilos light-er (if that counts?)!

We met a combination of lovely, and some totally insane, people there- all of which were baffled by our lack of guru action... how do you live your life? who tells you which path to follow? ..... erm- yeah! We spent our time drinking chai and playing Pass the Pigs, with a Swami called 'A', his parting words to us were- 'I wish you to become slim and strong'- how did he know the purpose of our journey? Maybe this guru thing isn't bollocks after all?!!!

Next stop: Kodaikanal- a hill station 4000ft up!
The temperature on the plains peaked at 48C and 39C in the shade, so we headed for the hills to cool off before hitting the west coast. Shocked and horrified when the evening temperatures dipped below 10C- bloody freezing, we don't know how you do it, we needed 3 blankets each and not a hot water bottle to be found!!
This town was small and sleepy, stone cottages surrounded a lake, could have been somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales if its wasn't for the sarees and ingenious wollen headscarves!

Wasn't much to do there apart from drink hot chocolate and go for long, long walks. Took a 'stroll' to an overhang in the valley called the Dolphin's Nose and a place called Echo Valley, natural Dolby Surround Sound. We met a girl there called Tanya, and some bright spark told us that a tribal village was only a short distance away- ha, short distance being over 10km through a valley, along the ridge and back up the other side! Exhausted, we arrived and a kind family offered us rice and a cup of coffee grown in the hills around the village- afterwards we hauled ourselves back up steep- STEEP incline back to our hostel to enjoy stunning night views and a roaring log fire.

Arrived today in Kerala, just chartered a houseboat to cruise the backwaters- to be continued...

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Comments

[Lili Joelle]

If you haven't got a guru
... then how could you know it was ok to leave the Mountain...? I'm baffled! Such temerity in the face of the unknown. Well done on the kilo-shedding! Love and light from me - ps, nothing wrong with that loo! Once you're balanced on the stone 'plank', it's quite ok ;-))

[ma trivett]

at least you`ve missed winter.
we have had frosts for the last 3 days in morning. you could record the sound of car scraping. are you on the west coast i`m a bit confused as to where this represents in the blog. can you enlighten me.beckie having fun in greece and she is well at present. thank goodness.take care luv mum

[Chris Trivett]

Twister Tales
EJ and Sophia Pleased to hear from you following temporary Blog Famine, is internet access proving a challenge in some of the more rural pastures? I was reviewing the route map on previous edition and pleased to note you seem to be staying to the South of the Indian continent. Your preference for off-the-track locations may force the purchase of even larger scale map which must surely cover most of lounge floor. We are trying to follow your route through a geographic form of Twister! Pleased to hear that Pass the Pigs continues to feature on your travels. Get some interesting PtP photos and you can apply for sponsorship on your next trip. I have looked up the Kerala houseboat charter, saw picture of a converted rice boat - so looking forward to details on that particular detour, don't lose your windlass. Life continues as what passes for normal here, Becky is in Greece, Matt is temporarily in Chesterfield. Mum and I enjoyed a good BLT weekend, just 30 miles down the road in a cottage near to Rutland Water. No mountains but did manage a 9 mile walk around the lake on Saturday and went in search of ospreys on Sunday (no luck). Now looking forward to Easter and a few days break in Devon - Becky has already requested an egg-hunt arount the flat. Apart from decorated elephants, have you seen much in the way of wildlife? I'll sign off now and wish you both well. Continue to take care of yourself and each other. Lots of love Dad

[Tina Ireland]

No guru??!!??
Hi girls! By the time you pick this up, you will be on a beach in Goa. It was good to get a Blog entry after what seemed like ages and a few texts since have kept us up to date! Have been trying to find the places you talk about in the 'India books'. Kerala features in the '1,000 places to see before you die' book. Fancy-no gurus for you two! So you won't be returning holier than thou I take it. On Easter break now-weather awful, it actually snowed on Saturday-you were either still on the hot, hot, hot train or checking into accommodation in Goa. who said I was jealous-never let it be said! Can't believe you're on the countdown-with just over a month to go. Keep well-keep happy. Love mum Ireland