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Published: June 18th 2010
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It was bound to happen. I’d heard about it for a week now - My sister talked about it, my mates 2 days earlier talked about it. As Michael my mate from home and I were picked up from some posh hotel, which we were not staying at. I knew that being a hands width away from a Great White Shark was the least of my worries.
We had arrived in Cape Town 3 days earlier to absolute crap weather. When sunny, Cape Town is a great city but when the weather turns, it changes to a cold windy place. I had probably started JP5 in the worst condition - I was sick from the week prior, jetlagged, hangover from my last few days in Sydney and tired.
Because of the bad weather there was not much we did in the first two days, except trying to find Australian merchandise for the World Cup. But that was hard to do when all the while South Africans were snubbing us. We couldn’t believe it there were Algeria scarves, New Zealand flags even Croatia and they aren’t even in the World Cup!
We tried to see some sites but it would
be either booked out or closed. It actually didn’t feel like I was overseas. Maybe because I was travelling with 3 other people from home, maybe because I am travelling so soon after JP4? Maybe because I didn’t have a big night out yet? But mostly I think it was we hadn’t really done anything.
In desperation to do something we used the opportunity of a break in the clouds to go up Table Mountain. Since it was winter I heard that the days are unpredictable so it’s best to get up there when you have the chance. I would have preferred to hike but there was a cable car. (This was probably lucky as a few days later some American teenager died. Apparently the mountain averages 15 deaths a year.)
Table Mountain is Cape Towns landmark. On a clear day you can see it from nearly every spot in town. However most of our days were covered in a “tablecloth” (local term for clouds.) Rumoured to be the oldest mountain in the world it provides a great vantage point of Cape Town. There are walks around the mountains flat top and it really looks like a small
town. The weather is cold, misty and there is no idea of what you are looking at, at times. Its grey and rocky with harden plant life. Cape town has a unique plant life and munching on it were these Rock Hyrax (or Dassie) they are like fat brown rabbits with no ears who’s closest relative is the elephant.
Patience is key for Cape Town and eventually the clouds went. If you look carefully and pick a spot in the horizon the clouds seem to dissipate like it is blowing out smoke from a cigarette. Legend has it that a retired pirate Jan van Hunks encountered the devil and to save his soul he challenged the devil to a smoking contest and they have been at it ever since.
The World Cup started whilst I was here. The first game featured the hosts South Africa. Public transport in this country is pretty ordinary and because of the dangers in South Africa at night the rail link normally closes at 8pm. But for the world cup it stayed open until 2am. This rare opportunity was taken up by the locals who, by the sounds of it, rarely venture into
the heart of the city. South Africa at this stage seems to be a ‘keep it local’ type place.
As I always do I found myself alone at some point in the night this time it was at 1:45am. On Long Street I was in desperation to not be homeless or an expensive taxi ride home? I run passed Vuzuvula’s (that annoying honking noise you can hear during the games) and cheering locals to catch the last train south to Lakeside. I reach the station to the whistle of my train leaving, locals encouraging me to get on the train before the door closes… I made it. The carriage was jovial and after half an hour I was caught out that I couldn’t be South African if I think a draw was a good result. My green and gold Australian jersey made me fit in until the crest was exposed. I copped it for the rest of the trip.
But that was nothing in comparison to what I was going through at the Straits of Dyer Islands, on a boat in a cage, eye balling a great white shark. There are only a few hotspots in the world where
white sharks pop up and here in Hermanus the shortest distance to see them is here. Only a 15-minutes boat ride out in comparison to a few days in some other areas. Successful sightings are higher than 99%. But that 15 minutes is a bumpy ride something that mentally I was not prepared for.
As I was looking out at the horizon taking deep breaths I knew it was now or never. A few minutes longer and I was throwing out bait of my own. So I was first in the cage. Bait of a half cut up tuna was put out, a little but of guts around the boat to add to the scent. In the cage it is a bit claustrophobic. I’m 6ft and any higher it would have been hard to stand normal. There was a red bar, which the hands needed to grab whilst under water and a yellow bar for the feet to take a breath.
Snorkels are used for breathing and it was hard to comprehend what to do when the guide is yelling. “Hands on the red bar! The red bar!” I was on the yellow, which meant my hands were
out of the cage. Whenever a shark would come he’d yell out. “DOWN!” than which side. “DOWN RIGHT AND UNDERNEATH” was a good one. In all you are in the cage for quite a while like 30 mins. It’s choppy and easy to swallow water.
About half way through I felt ill again and as the shark contemplated the bait and brushing past the cage so close I almost patted it. I couldn’t help but be concerned of, not my well being, but of my imminent vomit.
Because this creature takes an hour to finally eat its prey I missed the shark thrashing about which Michael was lucky enough to see. I suppose I could have seen it on board but I was too busy chunking up two big loads of breakfast and lunch over the other side. Minus the vomit streak and hanging my head down in pain and lifting my head up for sweet breeze relief it was an okay experience. I think it is best summarised by a 2009 Australian Wallaby Rugby player of a signature I don’t understand back at reception. “Money can’t buy my sea sickness experience! You make life out of what you
Rock Hyrax
Related to the elephant give!”
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Heather
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Wow, I LOVED your post about the shark dive, Table Mtn, etc! It was so exciting, I felt like I was there! Those photos of the sharks are amazing! My blog is looking for travel photos, reviews, commentaries, etc, to share. If you have the time, check it out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com, or email us at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com. I'd LOVE to post a shark photo if it's something you'd like to share with our readers. Of course, you get photo credit! Continued fun on your travels! Heather :)