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Published: February 25th 2005
Nancy's meal
All the meals were beautifully arrange, but Nancy's was the nicest.Nancy and I worked in the library this morning and then took the rest of the day off. About three this afternoon Harold, Nancy and I went downtown to see what we could see, eat our evening meal and go to see the opera Carmen at the State Opera House. This is the same theater where Nancy and I saw Turandot several weeks ago.
Harold took us to see a church he likes named Our Lady of the Snow. I don’t know the story behind the name of the church and our guidebook makes no mention of it. The church was begun in 1347 by Emperor Charles IV to remind him of his coronation as emperor. It is the tallest church in Prague. I was surprised when I read that as I thought the St. Vitas Cathedral was taller. Above the front door is a beautiful tile mosaic icon of the Madonna and the baby Jesus. Inside the architecture is typical Gothic, very high walls with ornate ceilings and a very fancy Baroque alter. Most of the pews were blocked off by a rope. A sign hanging on it requested silence. The last two or three rows of pews were
Our Lady of the Snow Icon
This icon is over the main door of the church. open and people were praying and meditating while we were there. Few churches are normally left unlocked and I think the fact that many Catholic churches were unlocked and without fee to enter this weekend was because people were inside praying for the Pope who is so ill.
In our wanderings we found ourselves in front of a tower that stands alone, unattached to any other building. It is the Jindrisska bell tower. The current structure was built in 1599. From 1475 to 1599 a wooden bell tower stood on this spot. On different levels the tower now contains a museum, a cafe, restaurant and a gift shop. Much to the credit of the Czechs, the original architecture has not been altered to accommodate the business establishments. The outside stone walls are just as they always were but a metal structure of 10 floors, including stairs and an elevator) were placed inside. We found the tower to be intriguing.
Nancy noticed the sign on the tower said both museum and restaurant. “Would you like to eat here?” Harold asked.
“Sure, why not,” we replied.
The restaurant dining areas are on the 7th and 8th floor.
The Czech State Opera House
There is an opera or ballet almost very night at this theater. The kitchen is on the 9th floor. The 10th and highest floor is the observation level looking out over Prague.
The menu was most interesting. In addition to the regular fare offered in Czech restaurants, ,chicken, beef, salmon etc., there were choices like wild boar and deer roast. Nancy ordered fish (what kind we coudn’t tell from the name but it was fabulous), Herald ordered a beef or pork ragout, and I ordered the grilled chicken breast wrapped in bacon. We were all happy with our choices. The servings were beautifully arranged and the food was plentiful. Nancy said when she saw hers she thought it was a small portion. However that turned out to be an optical illusion. The fish and a pasta/veg/pancake were stacked with carrots and another delicious vegetable in front of it. By the time we were finished we were quite full.
For me it was quite awesome to sit and touch wooden beams that are four hundred years old. The trees used for the beams must have been several hundred years old when they were cut and hewed. They are huge and as far as I could tell each beam was made from
a single piece of wood. I felt the same about the large metal pins that joined the beams together. Here was iron smelted over 400 years ago, used in the construction of this bell tower and still holding the beams in place. Has our society built anything that will last and be utilized in 400 years? The largest of the old bells from the original tower is still hanging in the beams in the middle of the restaurant area.
We had to walk quickly several blocks to the State Opera House where we had tickets for Bizet’s Carmen. The theater was almost totally filled tonight. We got to our seats about ten minutes before curtain time. I noticed many people taking pictures with their digital cameras even thought this is the theater were I was told several weeks ago that no pictures are allowed. I decided, “Well, if other people are taking pictures so will I.” I made sure my flash was turned off and took several pictures. A flash is useless in such a massive space. At the end of the performance I (and about half of the audience)took several pictures of the performers taking their bows.
We enjoyed Carmen, thought it is a l-o-n-g opera and (just like the last time we were there) it was uncomfortably warm in the upper balcony where we were sitting. (I should be given a T-shirt with “I survived Carmen” printed on its front.) Because it was so hot Nancy took off her jacket, then unbuttoned the sleeves of her blouse and pushed them up to her elbows, next she took off her shoes and socks. As she is modest, she stopped at that point. Carmen, not counting the intermission lasted three hours. Carmen, of course, comes to a bad end. She was the ultimate heartbreaker.
The stage was very interesting. The major portion of the stage turns, in either direction, like a wheel. This gives them great flexibility in the use of a single set. Also, as the stage turns slowly and an actor, or several actors walk slowly along the illusion is given that the have walked a long distance. The set, turned in different directions served as a cafe, several streets, and a bull fighting ring. There was a regular staircase going up on the left and a wonderful set of stone stairs coming down the
The Bell Tower
This is the bell tower we ate our evening meal in before going to the to see Carmen. other side of the set so characters were walking or running up and down, watching bull fights from on high, dancing, etc. from several levels. The set was fabulous.
We have noticed that the audience at the opera and the ballet is not made up of just “old” people. A good portion of the audience was made up of young people, i.e. teenagers, college students, kids of elementary school age, and young couples. I do not believe that would be true at home.
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Sr. Catherine Clark
non-member comment
Magnificient Icon
The icon of Our Lady of Snows is magnificient. I have been searching for an icon like the one that you have pictured. Do you know whom I can contact about such an image or a website to visit? Thank you.