Wanderlust Nepali style

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25 December 2009

Kathmandu reveals itself well before you arrive. The clouds, undefined, morph suddenly into the frozen peaks of the Himalaya. The humbling effect of mountains will remain unchanged for me. The significant pleasure of feeling small.

After a long time between Nepali visits, I'm curious to feel the familiar and observe the change. See what a country I feel is akin to an old friend may feel like with fresh eyes.

The pollution, along with the population, is catapulting towards oblivion along with the rest of the world. But the eau de farm animal blended potently with burning plastic, wraps sharply around my nostrils like an old romance.

Happily greeted by motorbike, Andres whisked me through the throng to Thamel - tourist enclave and the logical place to start. Not a whisper of anything remotely like home I love the addictive feeling of being far way. Hooked on escapism, no mobile, no definite plans. The cold air slapping me into a different reality.

Aimlessly wandering around - retasting the incredible food, the time warping smells and the nervous rumble in the gut, it's exactly where I want to be.

Over my visits the notable improvements at first glance are; the absence of packs of marauding hounds, less farm animals obstructing the traffic, and the wisdom that happens over time that not every new 'friend' is trying to sell me something.

But the powercuts, brick like mattresses, absence of hot water, let alone reliable water to bathe, remain as constant as sunrise. A freezing cold shower the antidote to not feeling alive! 😊

The friendliness of the people as open hearted and weather worn as the dilapidated buildings. Sitting rooftop on Christmas day my thoughts are chilled and the excitement of the unknown year ahead that I'm ready to jump blindly in to. Wishing the same for you all.


29 December 2009

Tatopani - one word that means heaven. Hotspring vs cold Himalayan shower is pretty much a no brainer. Tato means hot and pani means water. And by Tato, I mean scalding goodness 😊

The nearest Tatopani to Kathmandu is 8 hours local bus away. So deciding to chase a bit of thermal bliss takes some time.

Slowly meandering up the valley away from the city the earth blushes green. The horns die down, the space opens up and rural Nepali pats you on the back. I could travel from town to town endlessly. Nothing to do but watch people, eat and chill. Boring in the absolute best way.

The icy water slices through the rocky gorge until it opens up to that magical hot spring place. To be freezing and jump into toe numbing heat is one of natures best gifts!

So from Kathmandu once more we are heading North through the Lantang region in search of the ultimate higher altitude Tatopani. A small village for New Years eve to perch for a few days and welcome 2010.

Just wanting to wish you all a fabulous start to the New Year and a big cheers from a place that requires no ice in your drink 😊.


3 January 2010

You know your mind has completly unravelled when remembering what day it is takes some time, and a definite answer is never concluded. The pace of recent days, if the word pace can still be utilized, has been akin to lichen growing.

Our plans to head to Lantang National Park started off well, but the destination name Ramche also exists in other parts of Nepal. So unknowingly we headed off in the wrong direction. It turned out to be a serendipitous ride to the end of the road. At the final windy bend Chautara greeted us. Perched sloppily on the rolling hills beneath a circle of white peaks, the town languished in the brief warmth of the winter sun. It's bloody cold. It's dark early. There is nothing to do but consider ones navel and play with the local kids. The perfect place to ease in to the New Year.

So it's been for the past four? days. A geriatric bus taking us East of Kathmandu - riding on the roof with all the joy of a dog with it's head thrust out the car window 😊.

On the way to Chautara the unplanned wrong direction turned our way. Hiking along the road at dusk we spotted some fires beside the river. One greeting led to another and we scammed an evening fireside, sleeping on the beach, and bathing in the 5 degrees river at sunrise. The feeling returns to your feet soon enough!

New Years day was spent meandering through high mudbrick villages, soaking up the stares, curious looks and smiles. A cruisy start to 2010. I'm lucky to have the company of a like minded traveller, same pace, same carefree approach, and a good dose of the 'all will be well' attitude :D.

We have discovered along the way that EVERY town has a tripper ready and willing to stare or chat to you over dhal baat. That it is possible to eat too much lentil protein and not get the runs. Supreme gulttonous happiness right there! And, that 'meh' is possibly the closest Western translation for the non commital side ways head wobble. We are doing a study.

Currently we are back in Kathmandu to restart in the right direction to Lantang National Park. We are hunting some high altitude Tatopanis for the next week!

Hopefully you all survived the New Year without injury and celebrated in style....


16 January 2010

Back in steamy, steamy Singapore I need to recap the past week of wandering. To come to clinical Singapore from Nepal makes the dream-state of being somewhere rural even more pronounced. Photos perhaps the only proof that the experience was even had. So some musings straight from the diary...

Lantang National Park
Daunche Jan 6

A gaggle of colourful, traditionally dressed women sit beside me. Sneaking stares. A small boy is picking rocks from rice laid on the street in a basket. The sun is warming one side of the cold street as we wait for a bus. Waiting. Waiting for another decrepid metal coffin to hurl us precariously along the mountain cliffs. A day spent on the bus yesterday, white knuckled, remedied by some sharp local whiskey.

It kind of sux to love mountains but develop a nervous rash when the moment arrives to board the 'bus'. The hot spring tatopani at the end of the road better be bubbling! 😊

I also feel the daal bhat addiction may soon have to end abruptly. I'm trying to keep it a secret from my stomach.

Waiting.


Tatopani Jan 7

One harrowing roof top bus ride over. One more quarter of whiskey consumed. We have finally escaped to a roadless, powerless, other world. One hard day trekking constantly skyward to arrive at the Tatopani complete!

Perhaps the first Tatopani was a freak of nature in the volcanic spring realm. The fact you didn't have to sit in a hot public bath while kids cleansed their mucus crusted noses in the steaming water was kind of fabulous. We have arrived sweaty with our own two day crust - and fearing after the hot immersion another type of crust may have settled in it's place - just warmer with more surface bacteria.

It's all very lovely mixing it up with the locals, but not being able to exactly draw the line of 'how well' you mix is a little ikky. A waters edge, close range nappyesque thing signalled the abrupt retreat. BUT, we are high, closer to the decent Himal peaks and sitting in a gorgeous Tibetan Buddhist Village with a satisfied dirty hotspring glow. The biggest challenge is choosing dinner - my stomach is beginning to resemble a doughy momo, the carbs are so damn tasty 😊.


Tatopani Jan 8

Crazy hardcore day. We aimed to set off and climb the high peak towering over Tatopani - Nathali would give us a 360 degree view of the surrounding white merengues.

As we climbed the path, a random option presented itself. Andres suggested a shortcut he could see. I agreed. The only way is up right? Wrong 😉.

Little did we know, 5 hours of tramping, breaking our own path, scratched to buggery and still not able to reach the peak, we realised we had to return. Dirt sliding, rocks in my underpants, some memorable stacks and the reminder that I am allergic to poison ivy ensued. It was hard work, full dirty scrambling and dissappointing to not reach the peak. We plan to tackle it again tomorrow with better directions and hit the Tatopani again for a retry!

After a cosy wood smoked daal bhat with the Tibetans we thought the Tatopani may appear better in the dark of night. Out of mind so to speak... To say the sky was magical would be an understatement. The galaxy was glowing. Somehow being higher altitude made the stars more tangible. The locals were singing a traditional soaking in the tub song. Steaming bliss!


Tambuchet Jan 9

Sitting fireside now, Rakshi* in hand I am as smug as a cat. Starting as early as the chilled morning would allow, we hiked hard to the summit of Nathali. Rewarded with spectacularly clear skies we knew how lucky we where to be the solo hikers on the path. My expectations where definitely exceeded on the visuals as we started the long way down.

The Lantang hike also rewarded us with loads of critters. Along the trail we saw a rowdy group of monkeys, a noisy woodpecker, an industrious squirrel, a mongoose, the usual scrawny goats, and an abundance of wayward yaks.

Down, down, down. Over knee breakingly windy steps we trod to complete the 10 hours of hiking today. Buggered comes to mind. It really is the perfect end to a fantastic time in Nepal. We have a 5am bus to ride 12 hours to Kathmandu tomorrow - then home. If I could TimeQuake the past few weeks and start the trip all over I would.

*Rakshi: Local poison. Clear fermented goon made from rice, maize or millet. Desperate times.



Shyapru Besi Jan 10

After a minor freak out on hearing the country woud be stalled for a National strike the 5am bus was cancelled to return. All roads closed. Hiking to the next town a few hours away with power was the only option. Faking an injury and calling an ambulance the only seriously considered option 😊. We walked fast.

Not really minding a delay to return, but considering I am meant to be moving two days after returning, I was worried. How to reorganise removalists, settlement dates etc from a remote Nepali village? What to do?

Thank some holy person for travel insurance. One reverse call later and luckily a seat available on the following days flight. Hoping the strike really only lasted 24 hours being the kicker.

Waiting. Resting. Eating chocolate. More chai. Life could be worse 😊.


BUS DAY Jan 11

How to make 12 hours on a bus interesting? Counting?

People vomiting out bus window - count 3. Sightings of significant Nepali mullet hairstyles - count 20. Whiffs of unwashed humanity - count several per hour. Close calls to precarious cliff edges atop inevitable rocky death - count - stop counting, close eyes, focus on bus snacks!

The strike over. The arduous bus ride over, only the flight to Australia to endure.

A final clay baked veg Naan and curry crossed my lips before I reluctantly headed to the airport. And taste sensations... I believe Nepal would be offended if I neglected to detail the food pleasures. As a vego Nepal rates highly on the non-carniverous side of life. Choosing the carb of the hour the quagmire.

Some of the main stars include:

*Green chilli bottled in Bhutan. Apply liberally to all dishes below and have tissues at hand.
*Momos: soft little hand pinched parcels of veg curry goodness. Steamed or fried - a plate of 12 could only be considered a snack.
*Naan: I'm talking about hand kneaded, lovingly slapped dough heaven. Filled with vegies or potato and cheese, bought gloriously to life in a clay oven. Make friends with the Naan man promptly!
*Thenduk: Fat rice noodles swimming happily in a spicy broth of veggies and garlic. Apply Bhutanese chilli and you've got one killer breakfast.
*Chowmein: A gorgeous staple - every local variation available to appease the oily noodle demon in all of us.
*Daal Bhat: One silver tray of ultimate carbo comfort fuel. The National dish of Nepal and the only remedy for post trekking ravenous behaviour. Take a truck load of rice, add a bowl of lentil soup, a potato spiced veg curry, a saucy hot condiment and some serious eating with your hands and there is no room for dinner conversation. Daal Bhat is the shish.
*Garlic soup: We all know the healing properties of garlic. But apparently they extend to assistance with high altitude. Bring it on. A 'dare you' amount of garlic that needs to be a communal decision.

The past weeks have been a peek into the alternate culture that draws me every time. My wanderlust showing no sign of easing up. The Nepali High only fuelling the gypsy I can't seem to shake.

So I'm now returning to Australia to pile all my possessions under a friends place, 'share house' properly for the first time, then get stuck into my TESOL course. I know the next wandering is not far away. To roam and teach English will hopefully scratch the chronic thirst for change.

Pheri Betau la Nepal!

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