Flavors of Yucatan


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North America » Mexico » Yucatán » Merida
January 5th 2010
Published: January 5th 2010
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Wood-fired pizzaWood-fired pizzaWood-fired pizza

A Rescoldo's house special, with serrano ham and chorizo.
Mary and I are adventurous eaters, and don't shy away from local food, including street food. We've been enjoying the fare here. Based on a mention by Paul Rounds — "Hammockman" (a favorite local expat blogger, whom we had the pleasure of meeting) we lunched at Rescoldo's in centro historico. Their stone hearth pizza was superb. The Canadian couple who run the restaurant were generous in sharing info on their homemade wood-fired oven. I've had intentions to build an outdoor oven for several years. Now I've got the plans.

The next morning we took an all-day cooking class at Los Dos. We enjoyed David Sterling's lecture on the history of Yucatan food. Then he took the group to the main mercado to buy ingredients for our afternoon feast. We spent the rest of the day preparing tamales, sauces, and other dishes. The meal was "over the top." The only thing he didn't supply was a hammock for each guest to recover, after the meal.

On Sundays, the downtown is closed to vehicles for the afternoon. Pedestrians wander the streets and plazas where vendors have set up their street kitchens, and musicians entertain the Sunday strollers.



Additional photos below
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Fueling the ovenFueling the oven
Fueling the oven

The design for this device is truly ancient, copied from ovens uncovered beneath the ash of the Vesuvius volcano in Pompeii.
Cooking class lectureCooking class lecture
Cooking class lecture

David Sterling, of Los Dos, holds forth in his dining room.
Leg of spam tortillaLeg of spam tortilla
Leg of spam tortilla

Sliced BBQ pork, with roasted pinapple. The class lunched at the market. I couldn't resist trying this pressed pork specialty, which traces back to Lebanon. (I showed the cooking spit in an earlier post.)
Tortilla timeTortilla time
Tortilla time

We try our hands at making the basic foodstuff: flatbread made from corn masa.
Our Mayan instructorOur Mayan instructor
Our Mayan instructor

She's really a sharp dealer!
No chili today, but hot tamaleNo chili today, but hot tamale
No chili today, but hot tamale

Tomales are labor intensive, but, for flavor, they're well worth the effort. We wrapped them in banana leaves, but corn husks are also common. (I should have photographed the sit-down meal, but was too hungry to think of it.) An Amazing meal. The course includes a cookbook of the event.
Pedestrians take back the streetsPedestrians take back the streets
Pedestrians take back the streets

I had tried to add more photos from the Sunday paseo (stroll), including food vendors and musicians, but the program wouldn't let me splice more entries from a different file. Stay tuned.


5th January 2010

Yummy!
Glad to see you are Yuca'n it up! What wonder ful colors and fun you are having. I love how so many places have a courtyard with a pool.
9th January 2010

Great post
I enjoyed your post, Eric, as always. It is really cold this morning here in Merida. I doubt that even Mary would go for a swim today if she were here. It was a pleasure to spend some time with you while you were here. Hammockman

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