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Published: December 9th 2009
Franz Josef We set off from Greymouth and headed south to Franz Josef town. The drive took us about 2 hours and was a pleasant drive with the usual winding roads up and down the mountains. We arrived just after 12 and went to the info centre. Turns out they only have one camp site for tents here and was the most expensive so far. For this reason we decided to get a cabin at the Rainforest Retreat for $10 more. It meant we could sort out all of us gear and get a good night sleep before our glacier hike. We checked into cabin 505 which had 2 bunk beds, very strange as the woman asked us if we wanted a double but oh well. Went over to use the internet, when I realised it said 504 on the key. Went and tried that door and the same key opened it. We quickly moved all our stuff into 504 before anyone realised and luckily this was a double with a lot more room. We booked our full day glacier hike for 8.15am the next morning and drove to the Franz Josef glacier to see what it had in stall
for us. It was pretty impressive and this was just from the car. Franz Josefis a tiny alpine town and has beautiful views of the snow capped mountains from the main road. It was pretty busy because it is the place to do the hikes from. We went to the little local shop to get some food for dinner, as we were cooking, and supplies for the next day because we were told to stock up for our hike. Went to the communal kitchen at about 8pm to cook ,only to find it was full of a Chinese party and the Kiwi Experience bunch. We made a hearty chicken curry with the slowest cooking brown rice in the world. Read our books and tucked up ready for our adventure the next day.
Today was the big day of our glacier hike. We got to the booking office with our warm clothes on ready to pick up our gear and get a safety briefing. First we got our waterproof trousers, then boots and crampons, coats, hats and gloves. We were ready for anything….. Or were we!! All aboard the bus and off to the glacier. The first walk was
easy and took us to the river basin. From where we were standing the glacier looked only about 500m away - it was 2 and a half km. We split up into groups and we were in the 4 th group with a group of Americans who were surprisingly funny!! Our guide was Jess, the only female guide out of 50 and off we set. Instead of taking the easy route over the basin, they took us into the rain forest over boulders, up rocks, up and down ladders - it was hard already and we hadn’t even reached the glacier. With hindsight we think this may have been a test to see if we were fit enough. There we were in front of this huge glacier - wow!! First job was a quick course in using crampons and then we were off. The first climb was for about 20mins up a hill with a gradient of about 75 degrees and was knackering. When we got to the top and the actual ice - we wondered how we were going to go on. The next 6 hours was spent climbing up and down ice walls and waves, on the edge
Having a little break
while we were climbing over a wave one at a timeof crevasses. They cut small steps for you with a pick axe but it was still bloody difficult. We learnt different techniques to climb up and down like the ‘daffy duck’ and the ‘franz shuffle.’ The place looks like an alien planet and was just beautiful. One of the hardest things we have done but by far the most rewarding. Just before the summit we stopped for lunch. It had poured with rain most of the day and the waterproofs weren’t entirely waterproof. (They have an average of 5 meter’s of rain a year). We were wet and cold and then had to make the decent. The journey down was a lot easier as they took us on a flatter route, but by that time our legs were like jelly. We had a few falls during the day but nothing to serious. The greatest part was squeezing between the blue ice caves and crevasses, Unfortunately we didn’t take as many pics a we like because it was pouring with rain and you needed your hands free most of the time. We got back later than the other groups as we climbed the furthest, back on the bus and back to
town to lie down… bliss! Decided to go out for dinner as neither of us wanted to cook and back to rest our bodies!!
Wanaka We checked out of our cabin as late as possible, 10am and our legs were aching. Got in the car and drove the not too far distance to Wanaka. It rained all the way but it is their rainy season on the west coast so what did we expect. We checked in at the camp and decided to get another cabin as our bodies were hurting, it was only $10 more and pouring with rain. Cabin 17 we were and it looked like a prison cell. Sky blue breeze block walls, hard concrete floors, a bunkbed and a double bed. We then drove out to get some food for the eve and see the lake. The weather had started to clear up so we got to see the lake in a better light and it was pretty impressive. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful lakes but unfortunately we didn’t have the weather. We went to Wanaka to walk through the national park, but we were finding it pretty hard
to walk in general, due to our previous days exertions so we gave it a miss. Instead we went to A Puzzling Land and it was awesome. If you could imagine MC Escher had built a museum, this was it. Holograms and illusions everywhere. There was one where you walked into a room on a slant and you mind took a while to adjust. Then there was water running upwards and snooker balls going up hill. Of course this wasn’t happening but it was a great illusion. Outside they have the first ever modern maze and we decided to take it on. You have to reach all four corner posts before exiting. The average is 30mins to an hour and it took us and hour. This wasn’t due to our memory or intelligence, but our inability to walk due to muscle soreness. Back to camp we went for some steak and sauté potatoes, which took an age, as the electric hobs weren’t very hot! Nice steak, and it saved us a lot of money before we headed off for rest.
Queenstown Up and we could hardly move. The DOMS (Delayed Onset of Muscle Soreness) had set
in and walking downhill was impossible. In the car we got for the nice journey to Queenstown. We arrived and the weather was glorious. Blue sky which made the place look amazing. It had a really nice vibe. We set up our tent in the nearby campsite and took a walk downhill into town. Very hard on the legs. Had a walk around and looked into what adventures we can do. Queenstown is the adventure capital of the world and you can pretty much do anything here. I wanted to do a skydive but turns out that I was way too heavy so Zo and I decided to do a paraglide. We booked it for the next day and walked down to the waterfront for a drink. It is by far the best town in NZ and had a nice buzz about it, best of all was there were other people!! We had a couple of drinks and decided to take the Gondola (cable car) up the mountain to see the views of Queenstown. It was amazing. It is situated on the 2nd largest lake in NZ and opposite the Remarkable mountain range - good name for them! What a
view and so beautiful with the clear sky. Back down we went and back into town for a few more drinks, in fact we never made it back for our sausage and mash and had a really good night. Because we are so far south, the sun doesn’t fully go down until about 10.30pm but it also means it rises at about 5am which soon turns the tent into a sauna.
Up early due to the hot tent issue to see another beautiful day. Had a wander around town and got some lunch before our 1.30pm departure for paragliding. Got picked up from our camp and off we set to Coronate Peak - our take off point!! The peak is a ski area during the winter season but dry as a bone in the summer. We paid extra to take off from the highest point. about 750m. We got strapped into our harness’ and I was up first with my pilot George, a nice French bloke. We got the wind in our parachute and he shouted run!! I ran as fast as I could and continued to run even when we were in the air!! The view was amazing,
Queenstown
A view from the top of the Gondola and the conditions were perfect. Lots of thermals, which meant we fly even higher, about 1000m!! George turned us round to just in time to see Zo running off the edge, strapped to her guide, Jones, a funny English lad from St Albans. We were in the air for about 20 mins, and I even got to take over the controls. The views were amazing and the sensation was awesome. We did a few acrobatics before coming into land in a field. I came down first with a graceful landing for a big guy, unfortunately Zo was so far back in her seat that she couldn’t get hers legs out in time and she took a bit of a tumble - no damage done. Back on land we were beaming with joy - a wonderful experience and a great way to spend the day. Got a lift back to our camp and had a look at the video and pics on the computer. Only to find out that I had my belly hanging out the whole time!! Bugger!! We walked back into town and had a few drink before getting on a steam boat around the lake. It was the
The tunnel
a tunnel on the way to Millford Sounds. We had to wait 15mins at either end for the traffic lights to change and it is just carved in the rock. Earnshaw steam boat and was a very old boat. We had a drink on the boat and took in the beautiful scenery around us. The boat moored up on an island for people to get off and have dinner in a lovely old wooden restaurant. We had decided not to do this as it was very pricy! Back on the boat and back to Queenstown - an hour and a half journey in total. Back to camp and cooked before watching some telly in the communal TV room.
Up and into town ready for our Shotover River Jet, which we booked the previous day. It is the same as the Huka Jet but was the first to do it and runs down a canyon. We got the bus out to the Shotover River and got in our boat with driver, Glenn. Not as funny as Nigel (Hukajet), but the that’s Nigels for you. Off we set on this boat down the canyon, narrowly missing rocks and through rapids. It was great fun and the 360 spins were as good as ever. The jet boats are an awesome experience. Back on the bus to take us into town with a
female driver who was a little angry. Shouting at all the cars etc. very funny!! We got in the car and took a drive out to a place called Arrowtown. It is a tiny little town that is living in the past. It was a huge gold mining area and the Shotover River was the richest river in the southern hemisphere. It is a lovely quaint town and we had a walk around. Our main reason was to sample the famous pies and god were they good. Back to camp to make some dinner and out to Pog Mahones Irish Pub, which if I am correct in thinking means ‘kiss my ar*e.’ had a few drinks and back to camp to bed.
Te Anau First day of rain at Queenstown an luckily we are leaving. Headed off on our 200km drive to Te Anau. Te Anau is the gateway to Fiord land and especially Milford Sound. We wanted to do some kayaking at Milford Sound so thought Te Anau would be a great place to do it from. Turns out it is about 2 hours away. We settled in at the lake holiday park and took a
Millford Sound Camp
After a very wet night followed a wetter morning walk around town. Decided we were going to drive to Milford Sound the next day and do the kayaking from there as it saved us $30 each. We got some food for dinner and had a drive out to see what was around. Not a lot but did manage to stumble across Pearl Harbour - a few less Japanese at this one!! Managed to watch the All Blacks vs. the BarBars on the TV with a deaf guy who I had a writing conversation with about rugby. Went out to a small bar in town for a few beers, where we got served by a guy with a mullet to challenge Pat Sharpe, before going back to camp and making the most amazing meal, of steak sandwich with cheese and onions. Makes my mouth water just writing about it. Also managed to find some Colman’s to top it off. Off to bed after a few games of cards
Milford Sounds Set off on our road trip down the state highway which goes nowhere else but MS. We were told in NZ that there were lots of free camp sites but this is the first journey we
have actually seen them, and they were nearly ever 400m. Normally there is a sign saying ‘Strictly no camping,’ which I think would make a great homophobic reality show!! It took us about an hour and a half before we got to the good stuff. It was the most amazing place, huge mountains and lakes with small glaciers and waterfalls running from everywhere. We had to stop at a tunnel for about 15mins to wait for the traffic lights to change where our car got attached by a Kea (Alpine Parrot). Through the tunnel and the beauty continued. MS is supposed to be the most beautiful area in Fiord land and they weren’t wrong. We continued to drive until the road ran out and we were there. There is nothing in MS apart from a café/bar and 2 campsites/motels!! We stayed at the Milford Lodge and set up or tent on an Astroturf site in the woods. We used stone to hold it in place and hoped that our weight would hold it down. MS is famous for it cruises and kayaking and most of the tours come from Te Anau. We drove back out a bit to the Chasm
Coming in to land
after my paraglide which was a sight to see and then booked up our tour for the next day. As there is nothing to do, I taught Zo how to play Scrabble. She soon got the hang of it and we had a marathon session in the lounge. MS is famous for sand flies (small mosquitoes that bite) and rain. The average rainfall is 6m a year, whereas the UK get about 1.5m!! Unsurprisingly it was raining!! Luckily we had bought some food with us otherwise we would have been screwed, cooked dinner and went to our tent in the rain. I went for a pee first and saw Zo standing about 20m from our tent, turns out one of the Kea didn’t want to let her pass! Throughout the night the rain got heavier and heavier and the wind got stronger and stronger. So much so I had to borrow some ear plugs of Zo, and this is a kid who slept through the great storm of ‘87!! The tent was moving around a lot because the tiny pebble we had used to hold it down, surprising weren’t doing their job! We got up at 7am after an awful night sleep to
Aboard the Steam boat
Taking in the remarkables find that everywhere was flooded. Went over to the office to ask the humourless woman if our kayaking tour would be on. She was as helpful as a punch in the face!! I managed to get talking to another tour operator who said they had cancelled all their tours due to 40 knott winds!! Wouldn’t want to be in a kayak in that! We then had the task of taking the tent down in the pouring rain and we couldn’t get the car near it. This was eventful to say the least, and ended up with a lot of wet stuff, including us. Our tour operator turned up to tell us the same which was crap. This was the one thing I really wanted to do, but turns out this year they have had nearly 11m of rainfall!! The journey back was amazing as all this water had turned the rivers into raging torrents of water and water was just cascading off the mountains’ in hundreds of waterfalls - an awesome sight!! The roads were a bit dangerous but we made it out ok!!
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daddy Russ
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More amazing adventures!
Michael Palin eat your heart out, the Zo and Tom grand tour is soooooo exciting. You guys certainly are doing masses of great stuff. I think an oldie like me would have struggled with the glacier climb- looks and sounds VERY tough. The para-gliding looks brill. Hope the landing wasn't too bad Zo (what about those women drivers, Tom. Hey ho.) I can get away with that this far away!! Zo and animals, never a good mix. I dare say Kea pie would be tasty? Jet boat sounds good. All this AND Scrabble. You dare-devils. Glad you saw the Barbars game. I bet they were well peed off in NZ! A good match. Keep the blogs coming guys they are brill. xxxxxxxxxxxDad