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Published: March 11th 2006
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Cape Town, South Africa
The view of Table Mountain from the Waterfront. Cape Town is a lovely city with many faces. It's European, it's African, it's rich, it's poor, it's safe, it's dangerous, and it's an opportunity to experience many varied activities in a relatively small area. We enjoyed the waterfront, Robben Island, the surrounding beaches and the wine country, but we never really explored the central city or the townships. Being cautious travelers, the possibilities for theft or other problems was just too great for us.
The city tour that was included in our package took us to the major tourist spots. First stop was Table Mountain. This is the famous landmark of the city. A large revolving cable car took us up to the top. It was a slightly hazy day but we were still able to get good views and photos. On the top of the mountain there are 3 different trails that circle the flat topped mountain in ever increasing concentric circles. The walks provide you with 360 degree views of the city and harbor. Along the way there are hydrax laying on the rocks catching some rays. These are little marmot-like animals which surprisingly are very similar to elephants in their body structure. They don't have trunks,
but many other features of their bodies are the same.
That was the best part of the tour. The rest of the morning was spent driving through the main parts of the city, driving past the castle, looking at some traditional Cape Dutch architecture, and going to the Cape Town Diamond Works. The diamonds were beautiful, the info about the mines and the cutting of the stones was interesting, but what they really wanted us to do was buy diamonds. Long term travelers don't/can't buy diamonds. They quickly lost interest in us and concentrated on the German tourists in our group.
That afternoon we visited Robben Island. Here are Ron's impression of that experience.
The Waterfront area of Cape Town probably does not meet the expectations of most first-time visitors to South Africa. Shopping malls and up-scale restaurants defy many stereotypes, and the beautiful Table Mountain dominates the landside horizon. Hundreds of stores offer not only quality African products, but brand names from around the world.
From this launching platform the ferries to Robben Island begin their half-hour trek to an outdoor museum offering the starkest of glimpses into South Africa’s political past. The island prison
in Cape Town’s harbour extends backward for centuries, but the most powerful impact for today’s visitor lies within the framework of your own lifetime, as you attempt to absorb the magnitude of Nelson Mandela’s handling of his 18 years of imprisonment on this semi-barren isle. Three former political prisoners from Mandela’s time there serve as guides around the prison complex, sharing their own experiences as we traverse the maize of hallways. We pause at the sign that delineates the menu variations for “Coloured” versus “Africans”, tangible evidence of the inhumane political strategies used to divide and separate peoples even within the prison walls themselves, evil, disrespectful rules enforced by an all-white staff of guards. As one reads Mandela’s autobiography, “A Long Walk to Freedom”, the list of attempts at mental harassment and intellectual brainwashing grows long, extending far beyond the physical degradations and abuses of prison life here.
When the two-hour long tour culminates at the doorstep of Mandela’s tiny cell, the poignant memories of his extensive autobiography re-surface and become even more profound as you envision the hours secretly spent scratching out what would become the book available to us today. During his first eleven years here, Mr.
Mandela, like every other prisoner here, slept on the concrete floor of this approximately 6’ x 10’ closet with bars. As the book reveals, through lengthy negotiations with the authorities, beds for all became one of an impressive list of concessions he was able to extract from the usually intractable Powers-That- Be.
Far above and beyond the specific details of Mandela’s time here, the basic reality of a human spending 18 years of his life serving an unjustified sentence in the name of government justice is difficult to fully embrace or comprehend. For a person such as I who has so little patience in so many circumstances, I find it terribly challenging just to begin to comprehend how any human could cope so bravely and compassionately with these circumstances, never knowing if or when you would ever taste freedom again. To survive physically is one level of coping, but to emerge as Mandela has done with such a voice of gentility and a strength of caring leadership, this is the level of his accomplishment that exceeds my understanding. As I peer into the cell once more, my admiration for the man becomes immeasureable.
It has been an honor
to share his tiny world, commanding a respect that is unlikely to ever diminish.
(After spending 18 years at Robben Island, Nelson Mandela was moved to another prison facility on the mainland near Cape Town, serving an additional 9 years!)
Ron's account of our visit there far surpasses anything I could have written.
The next day included a wine tour to the wine country and the towns of Paarl, Franschhoek, and Stellenbosch. The wineries were beautiful and the wine was delicious.
Our last trip was over the beautiful cliff side route of Chapman Drive. This road passes the upscale and beautiful beaches of Camp's Bay and Clifton Beach. It slowly winds its way to the Cape of Good Hope. As is typical in this area it was windy and foggy with the Cape peaking out of the clouds periodically.
From the Cape we traveled to Boulder Beach in the old settlement of Simons Town. The main attraction here was the African Penguin Colony. It was a magical visit to these creatures that we love so much. We were within 2 feet of the adorable, funny fellows. They have been nesting and living in this site
for several hundred years. It was really special to see them carrying on with life on their own special beach.
We departed Cape Town and flew to Kruger, which you have already seen. The next installment will be our visit to Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River and then the last safari at Chobe National Park in Botswana. As for us, we'll be in Broome in a few more hours.
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Abby
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your trip to the prison
What an extraordinary story and facts about Mandella, I can see why anyone would be so touched by visiting it. I don't think I would even want to step into the cell because it would give me an eerie feeling of claustrophobia! I admire your photrography of your travels, I don't know that I could travel that much due to my travel sickness. We love the hats and Carlea loves all her Australian buddies! she slept with all them the night we received them ( March 9th). I gave Carlea a lecture on interrupting me on the phone after Ron had called last, Sorry Ron. Travel On! Abby