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Published: December 2nd 2009
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Hey Guys
Well our trip to Varanasi was relatively painless as we opted to fly since we couldn't get onto the sleeper train. Our arrival was a classic as always involving us wandering around in the dark through the mazes of streets, side stepping cows, people and scooter drivers who prefer to use what I would consider to be a sidewalk but what do I know. We finally found a hostel which turned out to be really nice, cheap and had a killer view of the Ganges.
Our decision to visit Varanasi was to experience what has been the cultural and spiritual capital in Northern India for thousands of years. With the Ganges serving as the focus point of everything, the Hindu belief is that if your cremated ashes are put into the Ganges your soul will enter Nirvana and end the Cycle of re-birth. We got what we were looking for our first day as we made our way down to Ghats. Our first one was the main Burning Ghats where the majority of all cremations take place. We got to witness 5 all in various stages of progress, it is something that really seems surreal. The whole area
around the burning Ghats is really a sight to be seen, as you have the many wood vendors who sell the wood for the cremation (average cost $2,500) as well as various vendors selling offerings for the families to send off into the river. On top of that the family members and outcasts are carrying the wrapped corpse along the streets in a funeral procession and don't forget of course the cows. The burning Ghats are open to the public, photography is not allowed and should be a no brainer but people still take pics. We watched the cremations for awhile but when you can actually see the corpses buring in the flames it becomes a little much.
We headed out to see some of the 80 other Ghats that were all full of daily activities and are truely one of the worlds best people watching sights. You have the Baba's out in full force hanging out smoking and praying. Farmers who have brought their herds of Buffalo's and cows to the river for a bath and a drink. Families bathing and doing laundry, kids playing cricket on the sidewalk and of course boatmen (touts) trying desperately to sell
you a ride...my friend, my friend. Since we are avid people watchers we got our fill here sitting back on the stairs taking it all in.
On a side note I would of had the most viewed video on you tube of all time if I had my camera ready. There was this little boy who was looking after the buffalo and he decides he's going to ride one of the small ones, well the buffalo isn't having it and takes him on a hell ride around the Ghat before bucking him off, the best part is the kid is naked the whole time so needless to say I fell over laughing my ass off. It might not sound as funny as it was but trust me it was pretty damn funny to see!
As for the Ganges itself, the water is septic. It is a mud based river so it would always look dirty but it truely is. There is all kinds of shit floating in there but it can't be toxic yet because everybody still drinks right from the River!!!!!!!! That evening we took a free sunset boat trip from our hostel to check out the
Ghats at night as well as a Puja ceremony. The trip was pretty cool as the Ghats are way busier in the evenings and the Puja ceremony was neat to see.
In our guide book they had this great quote which I think sums up Varansi perfectly and is still relevant 100 years later
American writer Mark Twain wrote: "Benares (Varanasi) is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."
We enjoyed our visit here as much as we could since we were both feeling pretty rough with Delhi Belly, and although Varansi has all the same issues as every other Indian city we visited (stinky/loud/over populated/stinky) the Ganges was something I'm glad we got to experience. Now were off to Goa for some beach time!
Until the next one
Cheers,
Matt & Tyne
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chitra
non-member comment
your travel blog
Matt and Tyne: I stumbled upon on travel blog as I was researching Udaipur. Loved both the content and the tone. Just too too funny. My husband (who is of indian origin) and I (indian birth) were in stitches all the way. We are going with our 2 kids to Rajasthan-Agra this summer 2012, and boy oh boy, your blog is sure preparing us for all the craziness that will descend upon us :). Best chitra